92stangerang

So i got done with the 351w/c4 swap but the rearend is still the 7.5.(4 cyl orignally)so i just want to weld the gears and when it breaks ill just buy the 8.8. My question is, does anyone have pics or advice to do this because ive just heard of doing it. never attempted it. thanx

Hamutoff

welding an open differental cannot make a 'posi' (posi is GM trademark name for their limited slip diff, FORD name for the same thing is trak-lok)

I guess if welding it up you would end up with a "pusdo-spool"

Hamutoff

Here is a good step by step to get ideas they are for Z cars but you get the idea

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=148126

8. It is important to heat up the metal to get a good penetration for the weld. Use your torch / plasma cutter to heat it up.
9. Commence welding. Some people prefer to use a bolt and jam it in there, But I didn't think that was good enough. I colpletely filled in the entire joint on all four sides and partially the middle *BE CAREFUL NOT TO RUIN THE THREADS THAT THE AXLES SLIDE INTO!* Turn it over and do the same thing to the other side of the joints.




http://www.island4x4.com/4x4tech/axl...ff1/index.html

There are different ways to weld differentials to create a locker. Some are created by welding the side gears to the spider gears. This eliminates the differentiation of the open differential as the spider gears and side gears no longer move independently but as a single unit. Another way, which may be considered stronger by some, is to weld the spider and side gears together, and then weld them to the differential case (some people even had pieces of metal to this process in order to make a more solid assembly weld). These two examples do not allow any differentiation at all between the two axle shafts, and consequently the wheels and tires.


good luck

93 Notch

I never liked a welded dif on the street, because it trys too hard to spin the inside wheel on corners.
My advice is to make sure its a good weld.
Everything else was pretty much covered in previous posts.
Chances are you'll probably break an axel before the dif itself.

Sidewayz6.0

I've recently seen a handful of stock 8.8's floating around for about $50 a piece. That would be the route I'd go before I bothered with welding the 7.5. I can only assume that you have a big converter or a brake on the C4...So the first time you lay into it hard, it's going to break the 7.5 anyway.

92stangerang

no its mainly stock motor and trans but still with me driving its bound to brake. 8.8 is prob. the better and smarter way to go.... thanx for the advice! run the one wheel peel til it break
s!!

Sidewayz6.0

It is the better way to go. And when I said stock 8.8's around. I mean the whole thing, drum to drum for $50. It's almost not worth driving around with the 7.5. My luck, I'll be 70 miles from home when it comes apart.

I'd hit the local junkyards.