00 Mustang 3.8 Brakes locked up after brake job
#1
00 Mustang 3.8 Brakes locked up after brake job
Well It had been about 75k miles on the front pads since they had been changed and my dad asked me to look at his brakes. The pads were worn past the pad on one and almost on the rest of the 3 pads. Fairly consistent. While pushing the pistons back out of the calipers, it was very difficult. Much force needed to be applied. I put new pads/rotors on, new slides and pins. Everything seemed to be good. I went for a test drive and the brakes overheated on my little 3 minute run. I then jacked the frontend up again and the wheel was very hard to move.
The brakes seemed to be stuck on. I then figured my calipers were shot from the brake pads being worn out too much. So I bought 2 new calipers and brake hoses- and installed them and bleed them. The fluid was very dirty that came out. I then took it for a test drive and the brakes were basically locked again.
Ive searched and came up with a few similar posts with suggestions but the previous posts- the owner never made an update on what the problem was.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/6-cy...r-lock-up.html
Ive seen some posts saying its bad hoses, abs pumps, etc. Does anyone have a suggestion to me as I cant even drive the car to the local shop as Im afraid the brakes will start on fire.
The brakes seemed to be stuck on. I then figured my calipers were shot from the brake pads being worn out too much. So I bought 2 new calipers and brake hoses- and installed them and bleed them. The fluid was very dirty that came out. I then took it for a test drive and the brakes were basically locked again.
Ive searched and came up with a few similar posts with suggestions but the previous posts- the owner never made an update on what the problem was.
https://mustangforums.com/forum/6-cy...r-lock-up.html
Ive seen some posts saying its bad hoses, abs pumps, etc. Does anyone have a suggestion to me as I cant even drive the car to the local shop as Im afraid the brakes will start on fire.
#2
This can be caused by corrosion in the caliper bores.New calipers can be effected also by the dirt forced back into the lines when they are installed.
Try popping the caliper pistons out by pushing the brake pedal down and see if the bores are dirty.If they are,you can clean them by using 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper to clean out heavy,stuck on deposits or scotchbrite pads ot just smooth out light stuff.
Wipe everything out real well before reassembly.
Letting brake fluid run out until it's completely clear will get the lines clean.
Make sure the pistons slide in and out easily before you go through the refilling and bleeding process.
BEWARE!!!!! DO NOT LET AN ABS RUN DRY!!!!! I've never done it but people say it's a PITA to fix.
Brake fluid needs to be changed completely every couple of years or if it starts to turn brown.The "brown" is water in the fluid and causes the lines and calipers to corrode,causing the brakes to stick in the applied position.
Repost and tell us what you find.
Try popping the caliper pistons out by pushing the brake pedal down and see if the bores are dirty.If they are,you can clean them by using 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper to clean out heavy,stuck on deposits or scotchbrite pads ot just smooth out light stuff.
Wipe everything out real well before reassembly.
Letting brake fluid run out until it's completely clear will get the lines clean.
Make sure the pistons slide in and out easily before you go through the refilling and bleeding process.
BEWARE!!!!! DO NOT LET AN ABS RUN DRY!!!!! I've never done it but people say it's a PITA to fix.
Brake fluid needs to be changed completely every couple of years or if it starts to turn brown.The "brown" is water in the fluid and causes the lines and calipers to corrode,causing the brakes to stick in the applied position.
Repost and tell us what you find.
#3
I just came in and checked the abs sensor thats attached to the inside of the mudshield. It seemed fine. I also took the abs fuse out and tried to push the pistons on the calipers back in to see if that would work and once i hit the brake the brakes were locked up in the front again.
I put the old worn out pads back in also and the calipers locked those pads up too.
There is enough room on the calipers where when i install the pads and calipers that the rotor spins freely until you hit the brake.
I put the old worn out pads back in also and the calipers locked those pads up too.
There is enough room on the calipers where when i install the pads and calipers that the rotor spins freely until you hit the brake.
#5
So are you saying that the problem is caused by not opening my bleeder. My buddy works at a brake shop and they do not open the bleeders everytime they compress the pistons. You would be replacing calipers all of the time from snapped off bleeder screws.
#6
When I used to be a tech in NJ for 5 years I never had a bleeder snap. All you have to do is spray some PB blaster as soon as you pull the wheels on it and do your checks and what not while the PB Blaster soaks in the bleeder screw. Also when ever I put the wheels back on after a Job or any type I would spray the center area of the wheel where the rim mounts and the studs with some White Lithium grease. If you do a Job right and the customer isint raped on the Job there is a good chance they will come back for future work.
#7
I took it to a relative who is a mechanic and he said it was the calipers. The new autozone calipers werent releasing. I already turned my core in for these junk autozone ones and i bought a set of carquest calipers and used the autozone junk ones for cores.
Car is FIXED!!!! 4 bad calipers. I gotta thank everyone for their help!
Car is FIXED!!!! 4 bad calipers. I gotta thank everyone for their help!
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