General Tech Ask model specific questions in the appropriate category below. All other general questions within.

brake pedal spongy after pad swap

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-09-2011, 08:11 PM
  #1  
StockD15b
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
StockD15b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fl
Posts: 1,392
Default brake pedal spongy after pad swap

just changed out the front break pads on the car. Couldnt turn the rotors due to they are drilled/slotted. and i took the car down the road a lilttle and the brake pedal is real spongy. never opened the lines, so i know its not air. Should i just put some miles on em to see if they settle?
StockD15b is offline  
Old 09-10-2011, 01:30 AM
  #2  
tbroecker01
 
tbroecker01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: WI
Posts: 27
Default

I would drive it for a while and see if they still act this way. If they do, then look at them.
tbroecker01 is offline  
Old 09-10-2011, 09:10 AM
  #3  
StockD15b
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
StockD15b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fl
Posts: 1,392
Default

ya i just got back from seeing if i couldnt settle them in, did about 5 60mph to 0 stops,then some regular city driving. definitely feeling better. They were smoking a lil after the 60-0 stops tho..
StockD15b is offline  
Old 09-10-2011, 10:37 AM
  #4  
67mustang302
6th Gear Member
 
67mustang302's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: California
Posts: 10,468
Default

1, did you get anything on them during the swap
2, did you bed them in
67mustang302 is offline  
Old 09-10-2011, 08:36 PM
  #5  
petrock
4th Gear Member
 
petrock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,670
Default

After doing the brake job, did you pump the brakes a bunch of times before starting the car? You need to push the fluid back into the system from the master cylinder etc.

Also, if you haven't flushed your brake lines in a while now is a perfect time to do it. Brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years or so. Over time it will get water in it due to condensation and will effect your braking performance. Its the nature of the type of brake fluid in our vehicles. You would be surprised at the improvement in braking performance you get from a simple brake flush and bleed... Good luck...
petrock is offline  
Old 09-11-2011, 08:59 PM
  #6  
JIM5.0
5th Gear Member
 
JIM5.0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 4,404
Default

I assume you got the correct pads, but every now and then, the people that sell you the pads screw up and one or more of your brakes have the wrong thickness of pads in them before they engage.Heck, even the dealership could have sold you the wrong pads, that is if you bought from the dealership.
I am guessing the wrong thickness of pads as a possible reason for sponginess. But I could be wrong.


Also, just because you did not open the brake lines or the master cylinder does not guaranty that air got in some how. The car is old, and when you compressed the caliper pistons in so you can slip in new pads, the pressure could have caused the brake lines to spring a leak somewhere.

You should inspect the brake lines for any leaks, check the pistons and the master cylinder too.
JIM5.0 is offline  
Old 09-11-2011, 09:08 PM
  #7  
petrock
4th Gear Member
 
petrock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,670
Default

Originally Posted by JIM5.0
I am guessing the wrong thickness of pads as a possible reason for sponginess.
The difference in thickness would be taken up by the caliper sliding into position when/if he pumped the brakes after installing the pad. :-)


Originally Posted by JIM5.0
You should inspect the brake lines for any leaks, check the pistons and the master cylinder too.
+1 Flexible brake lines degrade over time to the point where there will expand more then they should when you press the brakes. Have a buddy pump the brakes while you look at each flexible brake line on each wheel. You should see the line stiffen and move slightly, but it should not expand. Hard lines fail a little less frequently, but it you live in a high rust area (e.g. someplace that salts the roads in the winter) they could have rusted and you could have sprung a leak in one of them. In that case, look for the wet spot down the hard brake line.

Good luck...
petrock is offline  
Old 09-11-2011, 09:27 PM
  #8  
homershoots
 
homershoots's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: SC
Posts: 21
Default

It's very possible that you got air into the system when pushing the caliper pistons back. The seal doesn't work as well going the opposite direction. Just pull the cap off the master cyl and crack the bleeders for a bit.
homershoots is offline  
Old 09-12-2011, 05:46 AM
  #9  
capri debris
3rd Gear Member
 
capri debris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 823
Default

Bad things can happen to cars with ABS when you push the caliper cup back in and force fluid back into the master cyl. The proper way is to wrap a rag around the hose and pinch it closed with a pair of locking pliers, then open the bleeder and push the cup back in letting the excess fluid come out the bleeder instead of being forced back up to to the MC.
capri debris is offline  
Old 09-12-2011, 06:08 AM
  #10  
petrock
4th Gear Member
 
petrock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,670
Default

Originally Posted by capri debris
Bad things can happen to cars with ABS when you push the caliper cup back in and force fluid back into the master cyl. The proper way is to wrap a rag around the hose and pinch it closed with a pair of locking pliers, then open the bleeder and push the cup back in letting the excess fluid come out the bleeder instead of being forced back up to to the MC.
Don't know who told you that, but they were blowing some major smoke up your booty. Every service manual for every vehicle I have ever owned has stated to compress the piston which will force the fluid back up into the master cylinder. Also, when you let go of the brake pedal the piston retracts due to the rubber o-ring inside the piston bore, pushing the fluid back up into the master cylinder. So if it was bad to have the fluid go back up into the master cylinder then brake systems would be failing all over the place simply due to people pressing and releasing the brake pedal.

Not to mention that keeping the bleeder open while you compress the piston would allow air to get back into the system unless you have the super-human ability to compress the piston with one push.

Also, you don't want to pinch off the hose. You run the very real risk of damaging it. Hoses aren't meant to be crimped/pinched, especially as they get older
petrock is offline  


Quick Reply: brake pedal spongy after pad swap



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:27 AM.