cant remove distributor. please help me. im stupid.
#11
By removing the chain and cover you'd have access to the cam gear, could pry up on the dizzy from underneath. Maybe. It's been a while since I tore down a 5.0 block.
I called the dizzy junk because it shouldn't be frozen trying to spin it. The casing shaft isn't the same size as the hole in the block, it shouldn't stick. The fact that it is, likely means that the shaft is internally seized with the casing.
I called the dizzy junk because it shouldn't be frozen trying to spin it. The casing shaft isn't the same size as the hole in the block, it shouldn't stick. The fact that it is, likely means that the shaft is internally seized with the casing.
#12
when you say the shaft might be seized, you mean the casing (housing), is seized to the block correct? (im pretty sure this is what you meant), not that the internal shaft (that spins the rotor) is seized to the casing of the distributor, right? the rotor spins normally (as far as i know) when i turn the crankshaft with a socket.
it stopped raining here, som im going to ty and pry this bitch off soon
thanks
it stopped raining here, som im going to ty and pry this bitch off soon
thanks
#13
I meant the shaft that spins the rotor is seized to the casing of the distributor. Or at least thats how it seems given your description of the problem.
The diameter of the casing that goes into the block is roughly 1/2" smaller than the hole in the block, therefore it cannot seize itself in there. If it won't spin side-to-side, the shaft must be stuck to the casing.
Of course, if it spins by turning the crank, then my theory is shot to hell and I have no idea whats going on.
The diameter of the casing that goes into the block is roughly 1/2" smaller than the hole in the block, therefore it cannot seize itself in there. If it won't spin side-to-side, the shaft must be stuck to the casing.
Of course, if it spins by turning the crank, then my theory is shot to hell and I have no idea whats going on.
#14
Thats what I said. If you inner shaft (one rotor is on) spins when you turn the crank im lost. It should just slide right out if that shaft spins since the shaft has to rotate for the dizzy to be removed. I doubt a stuck oil pump would be enough to lock the dizzy in the block.
#15
I just figured it out. Duh.. It's all about the meshing of the gear with the cam.
Since the inner shaft is seized to the casing, the gear cannot come loose from the cam, since it unmeshes itself by turning counter clockwise as you lift the distributor out.
Find a way to force the inner shaft counter clockwise as you lift the distributor. Take the rotor off, the shaft itself should be squared off in some fashion, to which maybe a wrench can be applied to it. Turn the wrench left as you lift, and hey presto, you're done.
Here's hoping.
Since the inner shaft is seized to the casing, the gear cannot come loose from the cam, since it unmeshes itself by turning counter clockwise as you lift the distributor out.
Find a way to force the inner shaft counter clockwise as you lift the distributor. Take the rotor off, the shaft itself should be squared off in some fashion, to which maybe a wrench can be applied to it. Turn the wrench left as you lift, and hey presto, you're done.
Here's hoping.
#16
I just figured it out. Duh.. It's all about the meshing of the gear with the cam.
Since the inner shaft is seized to the casing, the gear cannot come loose from the cam, since it unmeshes itself by turning counter clockwise as you lift the distributor out.
Find a way to force the inner shaft counter clockwise as you lift the distributor. Take the rotor off, the shaft itself should be squared off in some fashion, to which maybe a wrench can be applied to it. Turn the wrench left as you lift, and hey presto, you're done.
Here's hoping.
Since the inner shaft is seized to the casing, the gear cannot come loose from the cam, since it unmeshes itself by turning counter clockwise as you lift the distributor out.
Find a way to force the inner shaft counter clockwise as you lift the distributor. Take the rotor off, the shaft itself should be squared off in some fashion, to which maybe a wrench can be applied to it. Turn the wrench left as you lift, and hey presto, you're done.
Here's hoping.
also, there is up and down play of the rotor shaft. very little, maybe it goes up and down 1/32". it moves that much easily by hand. and again, it spins when i turn the crank. it really appears the problem is the casing is stuck.
after the rain stopped, i went out there today and used a flat bar (carpentry tool) and tried to pry it up. seems it lifted just enough to see that it lifted, but the amount was too small to measure. know what i mean? like i can see that it obviously moved upwards, but the amount was tiny, like 1/100"
i sprayed more pbblaster in there and will go buy a big crowbar tomorrow. the flatbar is only like 15" long, not enough leverage apparently.
i will take some pics tomorrow too so i can be clear on what i am talking about and what you guys are telling me
i will try the 'spin the shaft while pulling' trick if i can. im doing this alone, so it might be tough.
#17
pics coming tomorrow. maybe im really dumb and not doing something right
i know for sure the hold down clamp is off though!
#18
oh ok, I wasn't clear on whether or not the rotor was capable of turning. nevermind then. As far as the diameter, I'm pretty sure it tapers down rather quick, but maybe it is roughly the same size right underneath the clamp lip. You are likely on the correct path in that you just need to keep prying on it.
I've never really seen one get that stuck before, so it's pretty much a guessing game for me.
I've never really seen one get that stuck before, so it's pretty much a guessing game for me.
#19
i got it off
finally
went to harbor fright, picked up a 36 wrecking bar for like $8
stuck it under protrusion of the casting and rocked it a bit. didnt come right out, still took some decent effort. then all of a sudden, POP! then i immediately started worrying that maybe i broke something internally.
take a look at these pics. does anything look abnormal?
when i looked down the hole, i saw that irrgular shaped thing that i just assumed should have been circular and thought it broke and was maybe why i couldnt get this thing out, but further review makes me think thats the shape its supposed to be.
but check out the red circle are, look right? im going to go back out and look at it more closely. the pic looks like at least some of the diameter of the hole is damaged. (definitely not using the correct terms here)
looks also like theres a gasket on the distributor casing that has deteriorated.
anyway, thanks for the help
imageshack for some reason inverts pictures. the top picture is inverted.
finally
went to harbor fright, picked up a 36 wrecking bar for like $8
stuck it under protrusion of the casting and rocked it a bit. didnt come right out, still took some decent effort. then all of a sudden, POP! then i immediately started worrying that maybe i broke something internally.
take a look at these pics. does anything look abnormal?
when i looked down the hole, i saw that irrgular shaped thing that i just assumed should have been circular and thought it broke and was maybe why i couldnt get this thing out, but further review makes me think thats the shape its supposed to be.
but check out the red circle are, look right? im going to go back out and look at it more closely. the pic looks like at least some of the diameter of the hole is damaged. (definitely not using the correct terms here)
looks also like theres a gasket on the distributor casing that has deteriorated.
anyway, thanks for the help
imageshack for some reason inverts pictures. the top picture is inverted.