3.8L seized up at only 71K
#1
3.8L seized up at only 71K
Hi, The engine just seized up on my 2000 mustang V6, and I dont really know why. I am kind of a do-it-yourself guy but I think this is beyond my skills. I drove about 100 miles yesterday and it ran 100% great. I parked the car for a few hours and started it up, drove about 200 feet and suddenly it started running REALLY rough, like 1 or 2 cylinders werent firing. So I went home, about another half mile, and parked. The next morning I started it again for a few minutes, still running rough so I cut it of. About an hour later I came back out to try to figure out whats going on, tried to start and it sounded like the engine fell out. Now, when I turn the ignition there is just a clunking sound. Tried turning it (the crankshaft?) over with a wrench and it is seized.
So is there any hope for this engine? Can it be fixed or do I need a new engine? I dont know why this happened, i've always been really good about changing the oil and it did not leak any and the oil lis still at the proper level. I also never had any oil pressure problems on the instrument panel gage.
Thanks
Mike
So is there any hope for this engine? Can it be fixed or do I need a new engine? I dont know why this happened, i've always been really good about changing the oil and it did not leak any and the oil lis still at the proper level. I also never had any oil pressure problems on the instrument panel gage.
Thanks
Mike
#2
RE: 3.8L seized up at only 71K
bascialy at this point its time to tearit down find out what went wrong and what is messed up.
If it truely seized at best a total rebuild of the bottom end at worst a new engine. i have seen transmitions come apart on the in side causing every thing to seize.
If it truely seized at best a total rebuild of the bottom end at worst a new engine. i have seen transmitions come apart on the in side causing every thing to seize.
#6
RE: 3.8L seized up at only 71K
Yes, it had fresh oil in it. I've only had it for 1 month and I drive like a grandmother. A friend just looked through the oil cap and saw a big spring loose inside? and now there is a big *** puddle of oil and chunks of metal under it.... he says it threw a rod and something blew through the oil pan and that the last owner probably raced it. So what should I do with this mustang????
#7
RE: 3.8L seized up at only 71K
ORIGINAL: seizedengine
Yes, it had fresh oil in it. I've only had it for 1 month and I drive like a grandmother. A friend just looked through the oil cap and saw a big spring loose inside? and now there is a big *** puddle of oil and chunks of metal under it.... he says it threw a rod and something blew through the oil pan and that the last owner probably raced it. So what should I do with this mustang????
Yes, it had fresh oil in it. I've only had it for 1 month and I drive like a grandmother. A friend just looked through the oil cap and saw a big spring loose inside? and now there is a big *** puddle of oil and chunks of metal under it.... he says it threw a rod and something blew through the oil pan and that the last owner probably raced it. So what should I do with this mustang????
#8
RE: 3.8L seized up at only 71K
Swap in a good ole V8!!!!
But i would first talk to the previous owner to see what he knows about why the engine throwing a rod! have you done a carfax? any maintenence recipts, it may or may not tell you something.
But i would first talk to the previous owner to see what he knows about why the engine throwing a rod! have you done a carfax? any maintenence recipts, it may or may not tell you something.
#9
RE: 3.8L seized up at only 71K
Just a thought, but maybe the oil pump went out or wasn't working properly causig the engine to go without and seize. Definitely talk to the old owner. 71,000 miles is very premature for a rod to go!!
#10
RE: 3.8L seized up at only 71K
Took me 160,000 miles before I killed mine! And that was due to a blown head gasket and water killing the bearings and crank.
You have 3 months from purchase to do something, at least here in California. Its called the "Lemon Law" and basicly the guy/gal has to give your money back or fix it. Which state do you live in? And for sure, ask someone on these forums to do a Carfax for you so that you will know exactly whats up.
If you cant do anything and its all done and said then just get yourself a commute car and start building a project. You can either get a new 3.8L engine and have it installed ($1500-3000 depending where you go and where you buy.)
If you do a V8 swap then I would suggest finding a GT or Cobra or Mach1 donor car and stripping all the parts you need off of that. At the auto auctions here in Sacramento Donor Cobra's go for about $3500-5000 dollars which is an awesome price concidering that the engine and trans is like a 8-10,000 dollar combo. I really wouldnt use the IRS from a cobra though, they are heavy and break easily under lots of torque.
I paid $3480 for my 03' Mach1 engine, trans, ECU, wiring harnes and whole front suspension but I am going to have to spend another 7,000 to make the car exactly what I want it to be. Now you could just change the engine and driveshaft and rear end and call it good for about $4000 total but I want more! [sm=alcoholic.gif]
Good Luck with it all, and for sure Check Ebay. If you live in California (By sacramento) I might be able to help you more.
-Eric-
You have 3 months from purchase to do something, at least here in California. Its called the "Lemon Law" and basicly the guy/gal has to give your money back or fix it. Which state do you live in? And for sure, ask someone on these forums to do a Carfax for you so that you will know exactly whats up.
If you cant do anything and its all done and said then just get yourself a commute car and start building a project. You can either get a new 3.8L engine and have it installed ($1500-3000 depending where you go and where you buy.)
If you do a V8 swap then I would suggest finding a GT or Cobra or Mach1 donor car and stripping all the parts you need off of that. At the auto auctions here in Sacramento Donor Cobra's go for about $3500-5000 dollars which is an awesome price concidering that the engine and trans is like a 8-10,000 dollar combo. I really wouldnt use the IRS from a cobra though, they are heavy and break easily under lots of torque.
I paid $3480 for my 03' Mach1 engine, trans, ECU, wiring harnes and whole front suspension but I am going to have to spend another 7,000 to make the car exactly what I want it to be. Now you could just change the engine and driveshaft and rear end and call it good for about $4000 total but I want more! [sm=alcoholic.gif]
Good Luck with it all, and for sure Check Ebay. If you live in California (By sacramento) I might be able to help you more.
-Eric-
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
daniel4200
V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs
5
04-18-2004 10:33 PM