Camster

I think that rotors have become a throw away item because of the replacement cost vs the turning cost.It doesn't cost that much more these days to buy new ones.That wasn't the case twenty years ago.
Part of that is country of origin,part of that is that rotors no longer have a built in hub with bearing races,it's just the disc.

MuscleStangGT05

So like I said, this was my first time trying a new method to bleeding the brakes. Usually I use my friend to pump the petal and I crack the screw. Well no friend this time so I did the gravity method first, followed by the method of filling a bottle part way and connecting a line, essentially eliminating air coming back into the caliper after I crack the screw. Stepped on the brakes a few times....petal feels great.....went driving and everything was good. But I tried some "emergency" stops.....and it hardcore steers to the passenger side....if fact I think I might have locked up the brakes and got a little tire screeching at one point. I figured maybe the other side wasn't bled properly so I re-bled it three separate times....all same result. So then I checked the side that was grabbing harder to see if something was locking up.....and nothing, it all moves nice and easy. Anyone know what would cause this, I would hardly think it's "normal" for it to jeer that hard one way under extreme braking.

Camster

Time to find that friend,I think.
Anyway,you have one new rotor and one used,non turned rotor on her now?not that I think it would make that much difference.
Check the other side,to make sure that it moves as freely as the right.I think that your problem is with the one not grabbing as hard as the right,and not the right.

MuscleStangGT05

No I ot new rotors for each side. Honestly I think the caliper is the culprit, so I'm gunna switch and see what that does....when I was bleeding that side the brake fluid came out brown colored....maybe there's oil or something in there? Idk I'm starting to think this guy gave me all ****ty parts honestly.

MuscleStangGT05

Swapped the calipers on the side I thought wasn't grabbing as hard....bled the opposite rear and that one just to make 100% certain. Still jeers to the right under emergency braking. Last thing I can think of is the side that is grabbing harder is somehow locking up while braking. Under normal braking it does just fine....does not jeer one way or the other....even under hard braking. But if I slam on the brakes it goes to the right every time. Even had someone braking with the car running to get the most pressure I could to bleed the brake....so there's no way that is the problem.

MuscleStangGT05

Got it all fixed and wrapped up. The new caliper I got was bad. After switching back to my stock one everything is great now. And no that it's fixd and buttoned up it does feel like it stops much much better, plus they should last longer and not get warped as easily. Damn seller giving me bad parts!

tbear853

Great!

Where's the jack stand?

Derf00

Yes you can machine down rotors on new stangs as long as the rotors have enough remaining material to do so. There is a minimum runout spec that should be stamped on the rotor (inner side by the hub). If turning the rotor would cause the final thickness to be lower than that spec, then you cannot turn the rotor and it needs to be replaced.

Typically you are supposed to turn or replace rotors whenever the pads are replaced so the new pads can properly bed to the rotor. On-the-car turning is typically $80-100 for both sides. Off the car is about $15-20 a pop.

The parts dude is a con artist at worst or mis/mal informed at best. I've been wrenching on cars for over 20 years and I have a good relationship with the Ford shop at my local dealer as well as a ford customizing/performance shop in southern cali. These cars aren't special.

MuscleStangGT05

If he was coning me wouldn't he have turned them and collected money? I went to one parts store and their machine shop was down for the weekend an they called a diff parts store and said I should go there. When I got there and he looked it up on his computer it said non machinable. When I was at the first parts store they said there was a lot of runout available. Their computer didn't say anything about it not being able to machine down, so you are probably right, maybe they put in the computer you can't machine them to boost sales? Either way they didn't get any money from me, as I went to a different parts store.