brakes don't stop as good
10-21-2005, 08:10 PM
#1
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location:
Posts: 1,013
brakes don't stop as good
ok well i'm talking about a 97 Chrysler Concorde 3.5L. Ok well i just changed out the rear pads, drums, hardware, and the soft brakes hoses that go from the hard lines to the wheel cylinders. Now the car doens't have as good as stopping power. It doesn't lock up the tires to where they would skid even on gravel. Does anyone know why it might be. Oh let me add that they don't seem spungy like there air in them just like they don't have the grabbing power as they once did before. did i do something wrong not enough bleeding them what. what is the proper way to bleed brakes , like a step-by-step process.
10-21-2005, 09:57 PM
#4
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 59
RE: brakes don't stop as good
Well the problem might be if you damaged one of the brake caliper cylinders. This could be the problem why you have experience a significant change in the performace of your brakes. Take the pads off and compress the cylinders. Wait about ten mins or work the brakes and see if they have made their way back.
10-22-2005, 10:07 AM
#7
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location:
Posts: 1,013
RE: brakes don't stop as good
no the brake pads are New. and i might have gotten brake parts cleaner because i was using a lot of that on the parts because there was tons of rust and dirt all over the car.
10-22-2005, 03:03 PM
#9
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location:
Posts: 1,913
RE: brakes don't stop as good
do you change the master cyl.?? also are you getting clean fuild when you bleed the lines..? i do know that those cheap pads they got suck the 9.99 ones there so dam hard they dont stop good and wear you r rotors up...
10-22-2005, 05:52 PM
#10
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location:
Posts: 519
RE: brakes don't stop as good
how to bleed brakes?
Everybody feel free to add...
there are 4 methods...
Remember, always start with the wheel farthest away from the M/C and move closer... usually RR, LR, RF, LF. Also, catch the old fluid in a plastic bottle... hook up a little hose to the bleed screw.
gravity-one man, better have alot of fluid. Just open the bleeder screws up (one at a time) and leave them like that for 2-3 minutes, then close them. Not the best way to do it, and it wastes alot of brakefluid, but better than no bleeding at all.
Manual Bleed - 2 man job. One person gets in the car, pumps the brakes slowly and evenly 3-4 times, then presses and holds the pedal, You then open the bleeder screw. Do this 2-3 times for each wheel.
Vacuum bleed - 1 man. You need a vacuum bleeder, usually about 80-100, and compressed air. Open the M/C reservior, top it off, and leave the cap off. Hook up the compressed air to the vacuum bleeder, put the vacuum hose on hte bleedscrew, pull the trigger on the vacuum bleeder and Open the bleed screw. A vacuum bleeder sucks out the air, but also the fluid too, so you need to watch the M/C reservior and makesure you dontrun out of fluid, or youll suck air into the M/C and the lines.
Pressure Bleed - 1 man. You need a pressure bleeder 2-300+, but it will give you the best results. fill the pressure bleeder with air... only 20-40lbs... you can use a bike pump. And fill the other side with brake fluid. Take off the M/C reservior cap, fill it up, hook up the pressure bleeder cap, and tighten (youll know what I mean). Open the tank valve, check for leaks on hte cap, then just go and open up each bleed screw for a little bit, and the fluid will squirt out. A pressure bleeder creates pressure in the brake system, so when you open the bleedscrew, all the old fluidis being removed. This is how they change your cars brake fluid. Id request to have this method done, and if not, THEN the vacuum method.
Remember, when manual bleeding, dont try to pump the brakes without the drums on or calipers in place, otherwise your wheel cylinder/caliper piston will fall apart on you.
Jim
Everybody feel free to add...
there are 4 methods...
Remember, always start with the wheel farthest away from the M/C and move closer... usually RR, LR, RF, LF. Also, catch the old fluid in a plastic bottle... hook up a little hose to the bleed screw.
gravity-one man, better have alot of fluid. Just open the bleeder screws up (one at a time) and leave them like that for 2-3 minutes, then close them. Not the best way to do it, and it wastes alot of brakefluid, but better than no bleeding at all.
Manual Bleed - 2 man job. One person gets in the car, pumps the brakes slowly and evenly 3-4 times, then presses and holds the pedal, You then open the bleeder screw. Do this 2-3 times for each wheel.
Vacuum bleed - 1 man. You need a vacuum bleeder, usually about 80-100, and compressed air. Open the M/C reservior, top it off, and leave the cap off. Hook up the compressed air to the vacuum bleeder, put the vacuum hose on hte bleedscrew, pull the trigger on the vacuum bleeder and Open the bleed screw. A vacuum bleeder sucks out the air, but also the fluid too, so you need to watch the M/C reservior and makesure you dontrun out of fluid, or youll suck air into the M/C and the lines.
Pressure Bleed - 1 man. You need a pressure bleeder 2-300+, but it will give you the best results. fill the pressure bleeder with air... only 20-40lbs... you can use a bike pump. And fill the other side with brake fluid. Take off the M/C reservior cap, fill it up, hook up the pressure bleeder cap, and tighten (youll know what I mean). Open the tank valve, check for leaks on hte cap, then just go and open up each bleed screw for a little bit, and the fluid will squirt out. A pressure bleeder creates pressure in the brake system, so when you open the bleedscrew, all the old fluidis being removed. This is how they change your cars brake fluid. Id request to have this method done, and if not, THEN the vacuum method.
Remember, when manual bleeding, dont try to pump the brakes without the drums on or calipers in place, otherwise your wheel cylinder/caliper piston will fall apart on you.
Jim