Runs hot
08-31-2017, 01:31 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: California
Posts: 16
Runs hot
Hello All,
I have 66 Mustang coupe with 69 302 which has been rebuilt along with tranny and rear. Have flushed engine until clear water escapes, new 4 row aluminum radiator, tranny cooler, spring in lower radiator hose, 50-50 mix anti-freeze coolant, electric fan and shroud with thermostatic control, 160 thermostat (down from 180). Engine still runs hot and at times well over 220. Any ideas or suggestions???
edgraz1941
I have 66 Mustang coupe with 69 302 which has been rebuilt along with tranny and rear. Have flushed engine until clear water escapes, new 4 row aluminum radiator, tranny cooler, spring in lower radiator hose, 50-50 mix anti-freeze coolant, electric fan and shroud with thermostatic control, 160 thermostat (down from 180). Engine still runs hot and at times well over 220. Any ideas or suggestions???
edgraz1941
09-13-2017, 06:06 PM
#4
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,826
What are you using to observe temperature? Aftermarket gauge? Infrared temp gun aimed at T-stat housing? Does the overheating condition occur only while stuck in traffic, while driving at highway speeds/under load, or doesn't matter?
Based on your description of what you have it sounds like the cooling system itself is tip-top. Honestly you should have no issues even with a 190° stat. Engine temp's of 220° though is on the high end of acceptable under most circumstances for most engines, so assuming you have a correct reading I can definitely understand your concern.
Maybe a longshot, but could also be tuning related. Lean a/f with too much timing can cause a rise in engine temp. Sustained detonation as well.
Based on your description of what you have it sounds like the cooling system itself is tip-top. Honestly you should have no issues even with a 190° stat. Engine temp's of 220° though is on the high end of acceptable under most circumstances for most engines, so assuming you have a correct reading I can definitely understand your concern.
Maybe a longshot, but could also be tuning related. Lean a/f with too much timing can cause a rise in engine temp. Sustained detonation as well.
Last edited by Z28KLR; 09-13-2017 at 06:10 PM.
10-23-2017, 05:01 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: California
Posts: 16
Still running hot!!!
Just finished install of high volume water pump along with all other previous mods. First sustained run with new pump and I still have same issue as before-engine runs fine at normal temp and the start to heat up not matter the circumstances. No water in oil, no oil in water. Going to check timing function and insure TDC next. Could heater core cause this for any reason? Am in quandary!!!
10-29-2017, 04:00 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 489
Still running hot !!!
edgrey 1941, let's start at the beginning. When the 302 was rebuilt, was a serpentine setup installed. If so, then water pump must be "counter rotation."
If running traditional "fan belt' then pump must be "standard rotation." What is the cfm draw on your electric fan? I suggest at least 2500 cfm. On my 308 and 331 stroker motors I use, at least, 3500 cfm.
Now the traditional problem child with the 5.0L ford small block engine. Are you sure that when rebuilding the engine the "head gaskets" were installed facing in the correct directions. It is very easy to get turned around when installing the head gaskets. This is a very common mistake, and very easy to make. Don't feel bad if the head gaskets are positioned wrong. I think most of us have made that mistake.
Good luck with your ride.
If running traditional "fan belt' then pump must be "standard rotation." What is the cfm draw on your electric fan? I suggest at least 2500 cfm. On my 308 and 331 stroker motors I use, at least, 3500 cfm.
Now the traditional problem child with the 5.0L ford small block engine. Are you sure that when rebuilding the engine the "head gaskets" were installed facing in the correct directions. It is very easy to get turned around when installing the head gaskets. This is a very common mistake, and very easy to make. Don't feel bad if the head gaskets are positioned wrong. I think most of us have made that mistake.
Good luck with your ride.
10-30-2017, 11:00 AM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: California
Posts: 16
Reply to sargeant
Thank you for reply.
Engine has traditional belt setup. Rebuilt professionally 30 over with all new internals and mild Ford cam, Pertronix ignition, 6 degrees btdc, excellent compression. New high volume water pump installed, road tested, ran well for a while temp started to climb while stopped at light and continued after that to same 210 to 220 range before stopping. Next I plan to run a colder plug even though I do not believe this is answer.
edgraz1941
Engine has traditional belt setup. Rebuilt professionally 30 over with all new internals and mild Ford cam, Pertronix ignition, 6 degrees btdc, excellent compression. New high volume water pump installed, road tested, ran well for a while temp started to climb while stopped at light and continued after that to same 210 to 220 range before stopping. Next I plan to run a colder plug even though I do not believe this is answer.
edgraz1941
10-31-2017, 07:12 AM
#8
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 489
Runs Hot
edgraz1941, you have covered all your options. I don't know what heads you are using. In my 331 stroker I have AFR 185 heads. The plug of choice (for these heads) is Autolite #3924 gaped at 0.045.
When setting up the timing I only set it up at "Total Advance," To do this, I bring the engine up to 2500 RPM and set the advance at 34 degrees.
Now remember, this is only a suggestion. This is perfect for my engine, but no guarantee it will work for your set-up.
Remember, to much advance will also cause overheating. 34 degrees is a safe number for my set-up.
Let me know how this works out.
When setting up the timing I only set it up at "Total Advance," To do this, I bring the engine up to 2500 RPM and set the advance at 34 degrees.
Now remember, this is only a suggestion. This is perfect for my engine, but no guarantee it will work for your set-up.
Remember, to much advance will also cause overheating. 34 degrees is a safe number for my set-up.
Let me know how this works out.
11-01-2017, 06:14 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: California
Posts: 16
Runs hot
Thanks to buck sargeant(had same rank) and derf. The engine has always run a little on the hot side but has just gotten worse over the past year and I decided to tackle it months ago with various steps I have listed. I like the idea of maximum advance and then will try a colder plug. Hey guys I'm 76 and still a Motörhead. By the way the thermostatically controlled fan operates perfectly. One of my buddies thought it might be the high test gas I run but I doubt it.