2006 S197 GT Differential Noise, walk away?
04-05-2018, 11:07 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: VA
Posts: 3
2006 S197 GT Differential Noise, walk away?
I'm looking at possibly buying an '06 GT with 60k miles on it and during the test drive everything went well until the end after some doughnuts when I heard a faint scraping noise during low speed left hand turns. Sales rep heard it too and since the dealer selling the car is an authorized Ford dealer the sales rep told me the service department would look at it. Called them today and apparently the tech said that the diff fluid was low so he added some and that the noise would go away after driving for a bit.
I've tried to search rear end noises and the closest thing I could find was the issue with new GT500 LSDs needing to break in, but at 60k miles this car shouldn't have that problem. This car would be my new daily so it needs to be reliable and not have pending rear end issues. I asked if there were any leaks and they said no, so I'm guessing it wasn't filled correctly the last time it was drained, but I'd imagine that would cause some serious wear if someone was driving around with low fluid. After all, if fluid went in then it had to come out somewhere, unless it wasn't filled to begin with.
So what do you guys think? Does this sound like a simple problem fixed by adding some fluid, or would you recommend walking away?
I've tried to search rear end noises and the closest thing I could find was the issue with new GT500 LSDs needing to break in, but at 60k miles this car shouldn't have that problem. This car would be my new daily so it needs to be reliable and not have pending rear end issues. I asked if there were any leaks and they said no, so I'm guessing it wasn't filled correctly the last time it was drained, but I'd imagine that would cause some serious wear if someone was driving around with low fluid. After all, if fluid went in then it had to come out somewhere, unless it wasn't filled to begin with.
So what do you guys think? Does this sound like a simple problem fixed by adding some fluid, or would you recommend walking away?
04-06-2018, 08:15 PM
#3
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,327
Scraping can be a shift at the axle, and the rotor hitting the caliper bracket.
I would look at that before the DIFF. The diff makes noises, but I never heard
one scrape. Hum, rumble, ping, grind, but not scrape. It would do it turning in
either direction. If one of the axles were shifting, that could do it in only
one direction.
Then again, it could be something as simple as a loose dust shield.
Shouldn't be anything like that at 60,000 miles though, so I would guess the
previous owner beat on it as well.
I would look at that before the DIFF. The diff makes noises, but I never heard
one scrape. Hum, rumble, ping, grind, but not scrape. It would do it turning in
either direction. If one of the axles were shifting, that could do it in only
one direction.
Then again, it could be something as simple as a loose dust shield.
Shouldn't be anything like that at 60,000 miles though, so I would guess the
previous owner beat on it as well.
04-06-2018, 10:18 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: VA
Posts: 3
04-06-2018, 10:20 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: VA
Posts: 3
Scraping can be a shift at the axle, and the rotor hitting the caliper bracket.
I would look at that before the DIFF. The diff makes noises, but I never heard
one scrape. Hum, rumble, ping, grind, but not scrape. It would do it turning in
either direction. If one of the axles were shifting, that could do it in only
one direction.
Then again, it could be something as simple as a loose dust shield.
Shouldn't be anything like that at 60,000 miles though, so I would guess the
previous owner beat on it as well.
I would look at that before the DIFF. The diff makes noises, but I never heard
one scrape. Hum, rumble, ping, grind, but not scrape. It would do it turning in
either direction. If one of the axles were shifting, that could do it in only
one direction.
Then again, it could be something as simple as a loose dust shield.
Shouldn't be anything like that at 60,000 miles though, so I would guess the
previous owner beat on it as well.
04-07-2018, 01:53 AM
#6
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,327
I had issues with my 2008, used, and I made them fix it as a condition of buying the car.
They LOST money, guaranteed... It started at $8900, and continually dropped to
$5913 over 3 months. So, I went in, and got them down to $5813. Trade in was $4800-
$5200.
They had to do a trans fluid service and replace the gauge cluster. However, it took them
THREE times to get the cluster right. On the 3rd final visit? They had to cut THREE keys
before one would work, then program it, and the cluster. So, they probably had $1000 in parts
and labor for two clusters, three keys, over three visits. The cluster needed two keys, they
said, and I left my spare at home, so they just made another one. They said someone
messed with the ignition cylinder, because it should not matter how the key is inserted
to start it, they're double edged keys. However, I have to place the keys in with the ford
logo facing the dashboard. So, it took three tries to cut a key to work... Smail Accura
has to pay for ALL of this. So, I got three keys now, which is fine, I have a remote starter
to install... I did manage to get one key in the other way, but it was hard to turn, and the
wipers didn't work, no kidding... Pulled it out, put the ford logo facing the dash, it was fine.
Anyhow, if the salesman can HEAR that as well, then he's aware of the possible failure.
Say, hey look, there is a mechanical issue, that needs addressed before I buy it.
Same thing with an '07 Charger I bought, it had cosmetic issues, most noticeable, a cracked
rear bumper cover. I said, naa, this is messed up. He said, if we fixed it, would that be a deal
breaker? I said no, not if you fix it. Well, took THREE weeks before someone finally made the
appointment, and the tech went over the car, and guess what? He marked every single dent and
ding, on top of the cracked bumper. There was a nice dent in the rear driver quarter panel. I said,
you're only supposed to fix the rear bumper. He said; "Like hell, this is a $20,000 car, we're gonna
do it right." So they did, and that took two weeks. I had a 2011 Charger as a loner for that long...
So, yeah man, speak up...
They LOST money, guaranteed... It started at $8900, and continually dropped to
$5913 over 3 months. So, I went in, and got them down to $5813. Trade in was $4800-
$5200.
They had to do a trans fluid service and replace the gauge cluster. However, it took them
THREE times to get the cluster right. On the 3rd final visit? They had to cut THREE keys
before one would work, then program it, and the cluster. So, they probably had $1000 in parts
and labor for two clusters, three keys, over three visits. The cluster needed two keys, they
said, and I left my spare at home, so they just made another one. They said someone
messed with the ignition cylinder, because it should not matter how the key is inserted
to start it, they're double edged keys. However, I have to place the keys in with the ford
logo facing the dashboard. So, it took three tries to cut a key to work... Smail Accura
has to pay for ALL of this. So, I got three keys now, which is fine, I have a remote starter
to install... I did manage to get one key in the other way, but it was hard to turn, and the
wipers didn't work, no kidding... Pulled it out, put the ford logo facing the dash, it was fine.
Anyhow, if the salesman can HEAR that as well, then he's aware of the possible failure.
Say, hey look, there is a mechanical issue, that needs addressed before I buy it.
Same thing with an '07 Charger I bought, it had cosmetic issues, most noticeable, a cracked
rear bumper cover. I said, naa, this is messed up. He said, if we fixed it, would that be a deal
breaker? I said no, not if you fix it. Well, took THREE weeks before someone finally made the
appointment, and the tech went over the car, and guess what? He marked every single dent and
ding, on top of the cracked bumper. There was a nice dent in the rear driver quarter panel. I said,
you're only supposed to fix the rear bumper. He said; "Like hell, this is a $20,000 car, we're gonna
do it right." So they did, and that took two weeks. I had a 2011 Charger as a loner for that long...
So, yeah man, speak up...
04-09-2018, 03:15 PM
#7
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,826
Test drove an '06 GT back when I was shopping for what ended up being my current '01 GT, also at a Ford dealer, the salesman had no issues with me putting the car a little sideways.
04-10-2018, 01:38 PM
#9
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,826
[QUOTEw=DRAGUL;8620141]If you buy it, see if they will change the plugs. Let them deal with them, if they break.[/QUOTE]
Those (2 piece) plugs really aren't that bad, you just need the right technique. Pulling some from a 3V 5.4 w/110K on the clock I basically followed the Ford TSB and incorporated a rechargeable impact gun. There may be some factor of luck involved no matter what you do, but in my case they all came out like butter.
Those (2 piece) plugs really aren't that bad, you just need the right technique. Pulling some from a 3V 5.4 w/110K on the clock I basically followed the Ford TSB and incorporated a rechargeable impact gun. There may be some factor of luck involved no matter what you do, but in my case they all came out like butter.
