Coyote 5.0 + Tremec 3550 - clutch nightmare
04-26-2018, 08:58 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Glamorgan
Posts: 1
Coyote 5.0 + Tremec 3550 - clutch nightmare
Hi people,
Sorry to start with such a long winded thread. Point me to the right section if this is not it?
Here we go. This will be familiar to some of you for sure.
I need some good advice if poss.
1. My current car is a Ford Capri MK3. Fitted with Ford Coyote 5.0 V8 and Tremec TR3550
2. The clutch system is external slave - pull type Wilwood 22.2mm. The master is AP Racing 0.812 (Wilwood recommend .750 so above spec)
3. The pedal box is after market but suspended almost exactly where the original Capri pedal box was. I think the pedal ratio is 6:1
4. When I bought the car everything seemed fine except the clutch was very over adjusted and even slipped on times. Car only covered about 40 miles at that stage so all brand new.
5. I got the clutch adjusted by the sellers and all seemed OK. Nice pedal, clutch cleared about halfway through pedal travel - happy days.
6. Here's the thing. When fitting the new pedal box I bled the system and went to adjust the rod on the slave to give a slight adjustment. I found the slave actuating rod WAS SO TIGHTLY ADJUSTED - IT WAS PRE-ENGAGED ALL THE TIME!
7. That's obviously why the clutch seemed to work fine..
8. When the clutch arm and slave rod were set properly i.e. just a tad free play on the arm and thrust bearing just kissing, it's impossible to select gears.
9. The master cyl was originally a 0.700, but I upped it to 0.812 to see if that would make the difference. It did but only by 1/8th inch at slave rod.
10. The master cylinder seems to have the standard 1 inch of travel.
11. The slave has a possible total 1.38 inch. But it only moves 5/8ths of an inch. By using a threaded bar I wound the clutch arm in to one inch and then everything was fine. With motor running I could select every gear. But of course that was with 100% preload on the clutch arm, effectively clearing the flywheel.
12. So my dilemma - if you haven't decided to hang yourself, is this. How do I get a fully operating clutch with NO preload and a decent pedal that clears around half travel?
13. My pedal actually hit the firewall / footboard and still doesn't make the clutch work. So longer pedal travel is not an option.
14. I'm desperate to get the car ready for a European tour in May - this is the last job. Nightmare!
15. I used Tilton throwout on my Capri Perana before. I am wondering if I'm forced to go that route again? If so, given the information above, would the Tilton throw out style work given the size of my clutch master cylinder?
I am truly stumped.
cheers Chris
ps not sure pics will help but just shout if needed.
Sorry to start with such a long winded thread. Point me to the right section if this is not it?
Here we go. This will be familiar to some of you for sure.
I need some good advice if poss.
1. My current car is a Ford Capri MK3. Fitted with Ford Coyote 5.0 V8 and Tremec TR3550
2. The clutch system is external slave - pull type Wilwood 22.2mm. The master is AP Racing 0.812 (Wilwood recommend .750 so above spec)
3. The pedal box is after market but suspended almost exactly where the original Capri pedal box was. I think the pedal ratio is 6:1
4. When I bought the car everything seemed fine except the clutch was very over adjusted and even slipped on times. Car only covered about 40 miles at that stage so all brand new.
5. I got the clutch adjusted by the sellers and all seemed OK. Nice pedal, clutch cleared about halfway through pedal travel - happy days.
6. Here's the thing. When fitting the new pedal box I bled the system and went to adjust the rod on the slave to give a slight adjustment. I found the slave actuating rod WAS SO TIGHTLY ADJUSTED - IT WAS PRE-ENGAGED ALL THE TIME!
7. That's obviously why the clutch seemed to work fine..
8. When the clutch arm and slave rod were set properly i.e. just a tad free play on the arm and thrust bearing just kissing, it's impossible to select gears.
9. The master cyl was originally a 0.700, but I upped it to 0.812 to see if that would make the difference. It did but only by 1/8th inch at slave rod.
10. The master cylinder seems to have the standard 1 inch of travel.
11. The slave has a possible total 1.38 inch. But it only moves 5/8ths of an inch. By using a threaded bar I wound the clutch arm in to one inch and then everything was fine. With motor running I could select every gear. But of course that was with 100% preload on the clutch arm, effectively clearing the flywheel.
12. So my dilemma - if you haven't decided to hang yourself, is this. How do I get a fully operating clutch with NO preload and a decent pedal that clears around half travel?
13. My pedal actually hit the firewall / footboard and still doesn't make the clutch work. So longer pedal travel is not an option.
14. I'm desperate to get the car ready for a European tour in May - this is the last job. Nightmare!
15. I used Tilton throwout on my Capri Perana before. I am wondering if I'm forced to go that route again? If so, given the information above, would the Tilton throw out style work given the size of my clutch master cylinder?
I am truly stumped.
cheers Chris
ps not sure pics will help but just shout if needed.
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