Need help with looking at 95 5.0
01-18-2006, 03:18 AM
#31
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Banned Camp (Counselor)
Posts: 10,200
RE: Need help with looking at 95 5.0
ORIGINAL: Neo
A 95' GT with no options what so ever, that sounds like a GT-S, those are a little rarer but as for being worth more, I have no clue. I have only seen two GT-S cars ever and it just looks like a V6 mustang with a GT badge and sound. The GT-S mustang was made to save weight when used for racing, at least that is the common theory. If it doesnt have a spoiler or fog lights then you can be almost 100% sure its a GT-S. I have no clue what the production numbers are on them.
Hey wow, ARdollar I was wrong about something, I will admit it. I was reading through my wifes "History Of Mustangs" book last night and found that the GT Auto weights 3077lbs. I got on line to confirm it and thats all I could find was 3077lbs for the GT auto loaded. Wow... Take all those options off and its a hell of alot lighter. Also weight of the driver is a big difference, 100lbs=10th second. You Fox is 2834lbs for the hatch (Wow so much less wow!!!) and just 234lbs can be made up by either a large driver or driver passenger. The convertable is even worse at 2996, And your coupe is lightest at 2775. Just in that, the weight game is why a SN-95 can beat a Fox. Powerband is also another great feature where the power is built at and the SN-95 Mods have a great powerband and keep makin power to redline. Another thing you kindly forget in your rant is that not all GT's had 225hp, in each of the 87-93 model years there were 205/275 GT's. Hmmm wow, isnt that less than 215/285??? Im not sure? Anyone else? Is that less than? Even with the 225/300 HO GT that mans GT-S will eat you (If he wants to buy it) Same gears, same trans (Well actuall the 93' had a slightly better first gear at 3.35 instead of my 3.31) The GT-S probably weights what the GT hatch weights because it has no luxuries that take up gobs of weight. Another thing it comes down to is drivers. Oh Hey, a longer body helps distribute more power, and I believe the SN-95 had a better ballance as well. Overall helps get the power to the ground.
We can argue over this forever, we both have our stand points, I have beaten and seen more SN-95's beat Fox's then the other way around. In my (and mine alone) opinion, the SN-95 body style is the best body style to come around since 73' and is an instant classic, one of if not THE most reconizable mustang ever! Simply put, with the new weight specs you are seeing you will probably not want to argue anymore because it seems like the odds are fairly even and the SN-95 has the fox by looks, stability, weight displacment and overall performance. And I know you want to, I want you to too; Go find some specs of your own. Im done playing the "Battle of the specs" At least I said I like the 93' GT.
-Neo-
A 95' GT with no options what so ever, that sounds like a GT-S, those are a little rarer but as for being worth more, I have no clue. I have only seen two GT-S cars ever and it just looks like a V6 mustang with a GT badge and sound. The GT-S mustang was made to save weight when used for racing, at least that is the common theory. If it doesnt have a spoiler or fog lights then you can be almost 100% sure its a GT-S. I have no clue what the production numbers are on them.
Hey wow, ARdollar I was wrong about something, I will admit it. I was reading through my wifes "History Of Mustangs" book last night and found that the GT Auto weights 3077lbs. I got on line to confirm it and thats all I could find was 3077lbs for the GT auto loaded. Wow... Take all those options off and its a hell of alot lighter. Also weight of the driver is a big difference, 100lbs=10th second. You Fox is 2834lbs for the hatch (Wow so much less wow!!!) and just 234lbs can be made up by either a large driver or driver passenger. The convertable is even worse at 2996, And your coupe is lightest at 2775. Just in that, the weight game is why a SN-95 can beat a Fox. Powerband is also another great feature where the power is built at and the SN-95 Mods have a great powerband and keep makin power to redline. Another thing you kindly forget in your rant is that not all GT's had 225hp, in each of the 87-93 model years there were 205/275 GT's. Hmmm wow, isnt that less than 215/285??? Im not sure? Anyone else? Is that less than? Even with the 225/300 HO GT that mans GT-S will eat you (If he wants to buy it) Same gears, same trans (Well actuall the 93' had a slightly better first gear at 3.35 instead of my 3.31) The GT-S probably weights what the GT hatch weights because it has no luxuries that take up gobs of weight. Another thing it comes down to is drivers. Oh Hey, a longer body helps distribute more power, and I believe the SN-95 had a better ballance as well. Overall helps get the power to the ground.
We can argue over this forever, we both have our stand points, I have beaten and seen more SN-95's beat Fox's then the other way around. In my (and mine alone) opinion, the SN-95 body style is the best body style to come around since 73' and is an instant classic, one of if not THE most reconizable mustang ever! Simply put, with the new weight specs you are seeing you will probably not want to argue anymore because it seems like the odds are fairly even and the SN-95 has the fox by looks, stability, weight displacment and overall performance. And I know you want to, I want you to too; Go find some specs of your own. Im done playing the "Battle of the specs" At least I said I like the 93' GT.
-Neo-
hey booze , you wanna close this down for us. this thread has done nothing for the topic starter, besides pure enjoyment of watching us bicker, which is useless.
thanks.
01-18-2006, 05:08 AM
#34
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location:
Posts: 303
RE: Need help with looking at 95 5.0
If you do buy this car, I would be prepared to put a little money into it. If the car has just sat in a garage, you're looking at replacing boots, belts, hoses, window seals, etc. Anything that can dry-rot will. I bought a car that had very low miles like this before - the a/c went out within a couple days & had to replace everything I mentioned (and more).
I would definitely have a mechanic look at it before buying & wouldn't pay a dime over what NADA says. If the car has been sitting on the lot for a while, chances are you can talk them down a lot. Actually, I would talk them down & have them replace the items I mentioned above. There's no way I'd pay $9K for it, even with the low miles - simply because of all the things that can go bad while sitting.
I bought a '98GT a couple years ago. They were asking 8K for it but it had been sitting for a while as well. I took it to a mechanic & found a pinion seal leak. The dealer let me walk out the door - taxes, tags, etc. for $6,900. The pinion seal was a $60. fix. She's been perfect since the day I bought her - not one second of trouble. She's a 5spd/blk/blk/all power/Mach 460. There are some good deals out there. If you're not having a sure feeling about the car, I would keep looking. Gut instinct is usually right.
Good luck with your decision!
I would definitely have a mechanic look at it before buying & wouldn't pay a dime over what NADA says. If the car has been sitting on the lot for a while, chances are you can talk them down a lot. Actually, I would talk them down & have them replace the items I mentioned above. There's no way I'd pay $9K for it, even with the low miles - simply because of all the things that can go bad while sitting.
I bought a '98GT a couple years ago. They were asking 8K for it but it had been sitting for a while as well. I took it to a mechanic & found a pinion seal leak. The dealer let me walk out the door - taxes, tags, etc. for $6,900. The pinion seal was a $60. fix. She's been perfect since the day I bought her - not one second of trouble. She's a 5spd/blk/blk/all power/Mach 460. There are some good deals out there. If you're not having a sure feeling about the car, I would keep looking. Gut instinct is usually right.
Good luck with your decision!
01-19-2006, 10:55 PM
#36
RE: Need help with looking at 95 5.0
Oh for those of you who are going "WTF? There was no Mach1 in 95'!"
After three transmission and finally blowing the engine up racing I decided to get some muscle for my car.
I bought a 2003 Mach1 engine, k-frame, suspension, brakes, 5spd, wiring harness for everything and ECU. I have everything for the complete swap.
The engine was missmatched with the transmission though, it was an engine that went to an automatic meaning it had the weaker nodular iron crank and not the forged steel so I bought a Livernoise 302 stroker kit for it.
The car isnt done yet and I had to put it on hold for a while because I got into a great paying job that took 12 hours out of my day each day, but things will be back on track soo.
Just to explain my sig.
After three transmission and finally blowing the engine up racing I decided to get some muscle for my car.
I bought a 2003 Mach1 engine, k-frame, suspension, brakes, 5spd, wiring harness for everything and ECU. I have everything for the complete swap.
The engine was missmatched with the transmission though, it was an engine that went to an automatic meaning it had the weaker nodular iron crank and not the forged steel so I bought a Livernoise 302 stroker kit for it.
The car isnt done yet and I had to put it on hold for a while because I got into a great paying job that took 12 hours out of my day each day, but things will be back on track soo.
Just to explain my sig.
01-20-2006, 06:01 AM
#38
RE: Need help with looking at 95 5.0
Your sh*tting me right?! Well I guess you joined up right when I stopped posting...
Anyways my engine has a few THINGS done to it. I would have expected you to think "Complete forged 4340 bottom end stroked to 302, that guy must have more done to it than that?!"
Here is what I have lined up for the engine, like I said its not in the car yet, I have to do alot to the car too to make it stronger, more agile and stop better.
*Super Comp Headers 3.5" Collector
*Test tubes, no cats for track use, snap cats in when on street (Havnt completed exhaust yet)
*21% crank underdrive and Lightened pulleys for accessories
*MEZIERE Electric Water Pump
*Flaming River Manual rack (Power Steering delete)
*Accufab Oval (Waiting for release) For now Pre-Ordered Twin Blade
*Port & media hone upper and lower, gasket match
*Heads will recieve Port work, still on engine (valvetrain is FR-Stage2)
*5.0 Livernoise Stroker kit, Ballance Unit - 4340 Forged steel nitrated crank, 4340 H-beam Forge Pistons etc, (set of 9.0:1 and 11:1 comp pistons, 9.0's for when I can afford the Forced Induction, still deciding on what I should get too.)
*90mm Maf
*C&L CAI
*42lbs injectors
*Alky Injection (To maintain lower cylender temps and to add more fuel)
*Custom Dyno Diablo Tune @ Throttle Stop here in Roseville
Thats just for the engine and there bits missing.
For the front suspension I wanted to do something different, I didnt want to install the stock fron IFS from the Mach because its rather heavy and performance aspects are limited and will need improvment. I oppted for a QA1 K-fram and coil suspension kit, its knocks off around 75lbs in the front and creates a better suspension geometry for improved suspension travel. The Flamming River Manual rack nicly accents this kit taking off another 40-50lbs depending on unit and fluid. For the rear suspension I want to convert to a coil over unit as well for improved track handling, right now its just a GT rear to keep it rolling find.
For the transmission I have selected a TK-600 to handle the torque that this engine will be throwing at it, plus I dont really like the heavy stock Mach 5spd. To front that up will be most lilkly a RAM Cobra R clutch system but my wife wants me to buy the Spec Stage 3 again because she liked it on my old trans. A lightened billit flywheel will help the revs as well. Behind the trans will be a custom PST Carbon fiber driveshaft w/ aluminum yokes. In the rear end a Auburn Torsen differential sits with 3.73 gears. I will continue using tokiko brand shocks but I am talking with Tien America to see what they can offer me in the way of plug-n-play suspension kits with the coil-over setup. Tien makes an awesome kit for the 05-06 Mustang.
Full length subframe connecters welded the entire length down will help maintain body strength and Summits generic Battle Boxes will be bolted and welded into place to handle the increased power. Pushing on those battle boxes will be a set of Weightjacker lower controll arms and tubular upper controll arms, spherical bushings of course. The controll arm sizes will vary depending on how I drive.
There is a whole lot more about this car that I am not willing to let out just yet, there is alot still in the planning, but I hope that helped to feed some of your questions. Also if you look in past topics you might learn a little more, If you want to see the car I can give you my cardomain site, if you want to.
-neo-
Anyways my engine has a few THINGS done to it. I would have expected you to think "Complete forged 4340 bottom end stroked to 302, that guy must have more done to it than that?!"
Here is what I have lined up for the engine, like I said its not in the car yet, I have to do alot to the car too to make it stronger, more agile and stop better.
*Super Comp Headers 3.5" Collector
*Test tubes, no cats for track use, snap cats in when on street (Havnt completed exhaust yet)
*21% crank underdrive and Lightened pulleys for accessories
*MEZIERE Electric Water Pump
*Flaming River Manual rack (Power Steering delete)
*Accufab Oval (Waiting for release) For now Pre-Ordered Twin Blade
*Port & media hone upper and lower, gasket match
*Heads will recieve Port work, still on engine (valvetrain is FR-Stage2)
*5.0 Livernoise Stroker kit, Ballance Unit - 4340 Forged steel nitrated crank, 4340 H-beam Forge Pistons etc, (set of 9.0:1 and 11:1 comp pistons, 9.0's for when I can afford the Forced Induction, still deciding on what I should get too.)
*90mm Maf
*C&L CAI
*42lbs injectors
*Alky Injection (To maintain lower cylender temps and to add more fuel)
*Custom Dyno Diablo Tune @ Throttle Stop here in Roseville
Thats just for the engine and there bits missing.
For the front suspension I wanted to do something different, I didnt want to install the stock fron IFS from the Mach because its rather heavy and performance aspects are limited and will need improvment. I oppted for a QA1 K-fram and coil suspension kit, its knocks off around 75lbs in the front and creates a better suspension geometry for improved suspension travel. The Flamming River Manual rack nicly accents this kit taking off another 40-50lbs depending on unit and fluid. For the rear suspension I want to convert to a coil over unit as well for improved track handling, right now its just a GT rear to keep it rolling find.
For the transmission I have selected a TK-600 to handle the torque that this engine will be throwing at it, plus I dont really like the heavy stock Mach 5spd. To front that up will be most lilkly a RAM Cobra R clutch system but my wife wants me to buy the Spec Stage 3 again because she liked it on my old trans. A lightened billit flywheel will help the revs as well. Behind the trans will be a custom PST Carbon fiber driveshaft w/ aluminum yokes. In the rear end a Auburn Torsen differential sits with 3.73 gears. I will continue using tokiko brand shocks but I am talking with Tien America to see what they can offer me in the way of plug-n-play suspension kits with the coil-over setup. Tien makes an awesome kit for the 05-06 Mustang.
Full length subframe connecters welded the entire length down will help maintain body strength and Summits generic Battle Boxes will be bolted and welded into place to handle the increased power. Pushing on those battle boxes will be a set of Weightjacker lower controll arms and tubular upper controll arms, spherical bushings of course. The controll arm sizes will vary depending on how I drive.
There is a whole lot more about this car that I am not willing to let out just yet, there is alot still in the planning, but I hope that helped to feed some of your questions. Also if you look in past topics you might learn a little more, If you want to see the car I can give you my cardomain site, if you want to.
-neo-
01-20-2006, 04:05 PM
#39
★★★★★
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Banned Camp (Counselor)
Posts: 10,200
RE: Need help with looking at 95 5.0
ok well first off you dont have to be a d!ck to everyone on this site, just because youre trying to prove that youve been here longer. second, how was i (or anyone) supposed to know what was done to the engine when in your sig all you stated in your last post and in your sig that you put a mach 1 engine (which only has 305hp at the flywheel) into your 95.
01-20-2006, 06:54 PM
#40
RE: Need help with looking at 95 5.0
I've only been a d!ck to you because you started it in this topic, I havnt been so to anyone else here, and nottice another topic I agreed with your suggestion on exhaust. Saying that I have been a d!ck to everyone else is just hiding behind them. Most of the high posting members remember me and a little bit about my car. Our argument about which body style is better got heated, I came up with all the facts, you trash talked, simple.
Also I wasnt being a dick the last post, I was just annoyed you didnt clearly read and understand the post before you post questioning the horsepower. When I wrote that sig it was back when I was just going to install the stroker kit and general bolt ons. Just the stroker kit with 11:1 CR, CAI, Exhaust and a tuner will get me to 400hp. Its not hard to build power with these engines when you completly rebuild the bottom end with a twice over ballanced set (Ballanced from the factory and B&B instalation.) Honestly its not hard to build power with these engines even without touching the bottom end. For what I am building I am going to make alot more power with that NA engine than just 400hp. I am not going to throw numbers out there because everyone always questions it, thats why most guys just get the work done and show the dyno numbers later.
Anyways I've got to move some crap into storage today, later.
-Neo-
Also I wasnt being a dick the last post, I was just annoyed you didnt clearly read and understand the post before you post questioning the horsepower. When I wrote that sig it was back when I was just going to install the stroker kit and general bolt ons. Just the stroker kit with 11:1 CR, CAI, Exhaust and a tuner will get me to 400hp. Its not hard to build power with these engines when you completly rebuild the bottom end with a twice over ballanced set (Ballanced from the factory and B&B instalation.) Honestly its not hard to build power with these engines even without touching the bottom end. For what I am building I am going to make alot more power with that NA engine than just 400hp. I am not going to throw numbers out there because everyone always questions it, thats why most guys just get the work done and show the dyno numbers later.
Anyways I've got to move some crap into storage today, later.
-Neo-
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