Knocking noise after spark plugs replacement
01-08-2019, 07:26 AM
#11
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: GA
Posts: 7
FYI, you have a coil pack.
AND, there are only three actual coils in the pack for the 6 cylinders.
4 & 3, 6 & 2, and 5 & 1.
So, when plug 3 fires, so does 4, and so on. However, 4 may be on the exhaust stroke when
3 fires, so you still can't mix the wires up, because when 4 fires, so does 3, but 3 won't be on
the compression stroke.
AND, there are only three actual coils in the pack for the 6 cylinders.
4 & 3, 6 & 2, and 5 & 1.
So, when plug 3 fires, so does 4, and so on. However, 4 may be on the exhaust stroke when
3 fires, so you still can't mix the wires up, because when 4 fires, so does 3, but 3 won't be on
the compression stroke.
01-08-2019, 12:39 PM
#12
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
There's no advantage to going aftermarket unless you have a built motor. Even then, the OEM will be the most reliable.
Being that I'm working on a different vehicle and replacing some rod bearings, it got me thinking as to other sources of knocking. Where is your knock sound coming from? If it's from the Oil pan area, it could be rod knock as in you have a rod bearing that's worn out or spun.
How's the oil level and condition look?
Being that I'm working on a different vehicle and replacing some rod bearings, it got me thinking as to other sources of knocking. Where is your knock sound coming from? If it's from the Oil pan area, it could be rod knock as in you have a rod bearing that's worn out or spun.
How's the oil level and condition look?
01-08-2019, 01:01 PM
#13
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: AZ
Posts: 849
If you put the wrong ones in, they can. You should have compared them immediately
before putting them in. Some are a tad longer, some are a tad shorter, but if you
got the right ones when they were looked up, you should be fine. None will be
long enough to make contact with the pistons unless you were given the wroing
ones.
before putting them in. Some are a tad longer, some are a tad shorter, but if you
got the right ones when they were looked up, you should be fine. None will be
long enough to make contact with the pistons unless you were given the wroing
ones.
01-14-2019, 02:14 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: GA
Posts: 7
I’m having hard time finding OEM coil pack reasonably priced. And in the mean time
There's no advantage to going aftermarket unless you have a built motor. Even then, the OEM will be the most reliable.
I’m having hard time to find the OEM ignition coil (Motorcraft) or when I find one is like $150. I’m afraid of buing the cheap ones too. Is there one you guys recommend
that is working for you and won’t break the bank ? Thanks guys !
Being that I'm working on a different vehicle and replacing some rod bearings, it got me thinking as to other sources of knocking. Where is your knock sound coming from? If it's from the Oil pan area, it could be rod knock as in you have a rod bearing that's worn out or spun.
How's the oil level and condition look?
I’m having hard time to find the OEM ignition coil (Motorcraft) or when I find one is like $150. I’m afraid of buing the cheap ones too. Is there one you guys recommend
that is working for you and won’t break the bank ? Thanks guys !
Being that I'm working on a different vehicle and replacing some rod bearings, it got me thinking as to other sources of knocking. Where is your knock sound coming from? If it's from the Oil pan area, it could be rod knock as in you have a rod bearing that's worn out or spun.
How's the oil level and condition look?
01-15-2019, 02:52 PM
#16
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
any of them in the standard section from the Delphi on up. I wouldn't use Airtex or United Motor. The others are all OEM suppliers for various manufacturers (except for the Beck Arnley which itself is a rebranded one).
01-31-2019, 09:14 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: GA
Posts: 7
So far
i replaced the spark plugs with the OEM Motorcraft, torqued them up the specs, replaced, spark plugs wires and spark plugs coil pack with Motorcraft as we’ll. Also replaced the tensioner pulley. The car definitely has more power but the knocking comes back seems like when the car gets warm but I can only hear it at low RPMs when get the car rolling and sometimes right before full stop. I added just a bit power steering fluid in the power steering pump and now I see a small transmission fluid puddle under need the car. So this is another problem I have to add to the list of things that are bothering me. I also think there is exhaust leek either from the heathers gasket or the heathers itself since I can hear a whistling sound too. Over all I’m having fun working on the car but the list of things is getting longer and longer. Please chime in with any ideas. Also if you know a good shop in GA...Atlanta Metro area that know this cars please let me know. Thanks in advance.
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