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Lower Controll Arms

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Old 03-09-2006, 09:06 PM
  #1  
F00Mustang
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Default Lower Controll Arms

I'm going to be getting a set of lower controll to start helping to improve my 60ft at the track. My question is that I see a bunch of companies offering an adjustable and a non adjustable oem replacement, just better built. I plan on lowering my car with a set of springs in the future, but I don't know if this means that I need the adjustable controll arms or not. I'm not real concerned with being able to "dial in " my suspension just for drag racing, as this is still my daily driver car. But if I need these to correctly lower my car, please let me know.
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Old 03-09-2006, 09:15 PM
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05ROUSHER
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Default RE: Lower Controll Arms

In my opion if this is still going to be your daily driver, You can use the adjustable, but stay with the type with the poly ends. The rod end type I believe will be more of a headach due to having to keep them clean and lubricated. Thats my opion but I could be wrong.
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Old 03-09-2006, 10:03 PM
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MusiccityGT
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Default RE: Lower Controll Arms

You will need to use an adjustable panhard bar to recenter the rearend after you lower the car. The adjustable LCA's won't be necessary. As 05rouscher pointed out, stick with the flexible poly ends for a daily driver. I have the full race versions and they transfer more noise from the rear end and suspension. They definately hook up better, but you won't like the noise.
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Old 03-10-2006, 12:03 AM
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The Ghost
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Default RE: Lower Controll Arms

Measure you rear end before and after you drop it. I had 1/16th of an inch of lateral movement after the drop. I had no need for an adjustable sway bar. Not saying you won't need it, but just too take measurements.
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Old 03-10-2006, 12:18 PM
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chevykiller
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Default RE: Lower Controll Arms


ORIGINAL: MusiccityGT

You will need to use an adjustable panhard bar to recenter the rearend after you lower the car. The adjustable LCA's won't be necessary. As 05rouscher pointed out, stick with the flexible poly ends for a daily driver. I have the full race versions and they transfer more noise from the rear end and suspension. They definately hook up better, but you won't like the noise.
+1 - and unless your making some serious rwhp (+500) then you'll be fine with OEM replacements or some steedas. I personally broke the steedas twice. They, like all the OEM control arms you're going to get use polyeurethene bushings inside the arms and although they give you a smoother street ride, they don't hold up under heavy load. Aluminum or steel is the way to go but you'll definitely feel them in your daily ride. I even broke the actual steeda billet arm too and now use the metco full race lower control arms and they are HUGE and easily hold up to what I'm giving them but it definitely feels and handles like a 'race car' when daily driving. Definitely consider getting a good upper control arm also.
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