2006GT

Hey guys, a couple more suspension questions from a newbie.

First question:

I plan on lowering the car so I'll be purchasing the adjustable type panhard rod and adjustable upper/3rd link. Do I also need adjustable LCA'a/LTA's or can I get away with the solid type? I want to make sure everything lines up the way it's supposed to after the lowering kit is on. I was dead set on the adjustable steeda LCA's but the adjustment points on each end look kinda flimsy, making me lean more towards their solid chromoly LCA's which they bill as super strong. The BMR adjustables looked even less sturdy with the adjustment point near the middle...I'd also like to avoid using any spherical bearings/rod-ends if I can help it.

Second question is about the upper/3rd link:

Metco is billing theirs as the only type that swivels. Is this important? The BMR and Steeda don't say anything about this and look very similar in contruction to each other. Are they missing the boat, or is Metco trying to fool people like me who don't know any better?

2006GT

Per suggestion...bump to top

MusiccityGT

LOL... I read your other thread, so I came back to this one. I guess I skipped by because it almost seems like you already have preconcieved opinions about LCA's and Mfg's.

Anyway, it all depends what your objective is. I was looking for a better launch and less flex. I wwent with race bars and panyard. They are adjustable so I can tweak the pinion angle and preload. They have the Sphyerical rod ends and are aluminum. After numberous hard launches, they are still perfect. No breaks or bends. They give me much better grip, firmer launches and shifts with less rear flex when cornering. They do transfer noise, buy very minimal. Not enough to bug me in the least. If that is not your goal, then the solids with polyurethane bushings are probably better for you. Yes, you will need an adjustable panhard if you lower it so you can recenter the differential. No opinion on the 3rd link, still using OEM. Here is what I am using J&M

2006GT

Well it sounds like the adjustable LCA's are going to be more used for fine tuning of the handling versus a required item for lowering. I'm more intersted in getting a part that is stronger while eliminating the wheel hop. In that case, I'll just buy the solid type...Either BMR or Steeda if I can make up my mind. I like BMR because they have the grease fittings and they are about 80 bucks cheaper. Thanks for the input.

darkhorse_07

I've been given two recommendations with the same rationale...

Background:
I would like the car to be a corner carver
Eibach Pro kit
Pretty much BMR all around (the usual stuff mentioned in most of these forums)
My sticking point is that I've heard conflicting recommendations on LCA and UCAs

Suggestion 1:
Adjustable LCA
Solid UCA

Suggestion 2:
Solid LCA
Adjustable UCA

Both recommendations used for "instant center", but I'm not sure which one would be more advantageous in my situation.

Cobrakev

Easy answer look under your car and see how much room you have to adjust the UCA. Not much room. It is just easy to adjust the LCA, nothing in the way. Now nothing say's you need to change UCA or LCA just because you lower your car. I have the Eibach Pro-kit on mine and still am running the stock suspension. Is this the best ride/handling the car can be? No, but does improve the handling. Some cars require you to upgrade the panhard bar when you lower the car. Some rearends shift to oneside when the are lowered. I guess I got lucky, and mine stayed inline with the fenderwells. I did lose a 1/2 degree in pinion angle, but no binding. Sorry to ramble,just anding more info to your question. Do a search on UCA/LCA Crazy Al has written a lot of info on this subject.

CrazyAl

You need adjustible lowers OR an adjustable upper. Either or. You don't need both. Personally I recommend sticking with a solid upper and getting adjustable lowers. Why? The lowers are easier to access for installation and adjustment. This is a also a stronger option than the adjustable upper scenario.

Take it from someone that has installed dozens of LCAs and who has a degree in mechanical engineering: You want either the BMRs or the Spohn. They might "look" flimsy to you but I assure you they are not. (I would pass on the Steedas...their welds are not good). Actually I would pass on most Steeda products. They are usually overpriced and mediocre quality, with a few exceptions.


The upper link does need to be able to pivot. However, there are different ways to do this. The OEM one doesn't have a pivot. Instead, it relies on the rubber mounts flexing to allow for pivoting. Metco adds a deticated pivot--a neat idea, but unfortunatley it makes a "banging" noise much of the time. A typical UCA has poly bushings that typically allow enough pivoting. If you really want to do the job right, get a UCA that has a sperical bearing in it. That will have the smoothest pivoting of all, which is one of the reasons why I recommend the BMR UCA with said spherical bearing. This is not only the strongest UCA on the market bar-none, but it also solves the pivoting issue very well.

I'm not really sure why you want to avoid rod-ends/sphericals? They are the best possible joint for allowing proper articulation and eliminating bind. I suggest the combo-type parts with ONE rodend and one poly bushing. This will greatly outperform poly-poly parts, yetthe road noise is not objectionable to most people on the street.

Darkhorse, you've been given some good advice and some bad.

Either of the suggestions you recived will work. As I mentioned above, you need EITHER the upper or lowers to be adjustable, so either of those plans will get you the adjustment you want. As to which is better? Again, I suggest leaving the upper solid and getting adjustable lowers. Why? The lowers are easier to install. They are easier to access for adjustment and maintenance. The adjustable lower + solid upper setup is stronger than the other way around. And LCAs are a better upgrade in and out of themselves, so with this combo you kill two birds with one stone.

Your last sentance is the bad information. Adjustable control arms have nothing to do with instant center. Adjustable LCAs/UCA are for adjusting pinion angle. If you want to adjust instant center, then you need LCA relocation brackets, also called "anti-squat brackets" by some dealers.

Here is some more reading for you:

https://mustangforums.com/m_1696246/tm.htm
https://mustangforums.com/m_2184423/tm.htm

darkhorse_07

Crazy Al & Cobrakev,

Thanks for the info and I'll check out the two links! My next question will be how do I know if I have the correct instant center and pinion angle?... If it's in the reading you attached, don't bother repeating, I'll take a look. If not, let me know where I can find good info.

CrazyAl

Here are the directions for pinion angle adjustment:

https://mustangforums.com/m_2570375/tm.htm#2571016

As for instant center, this is something that the average person typically doesn't play with. Instant center is something that racers tweak for optimum launch. As such, it is usually done by trial and error. However, I can give you a rough guideline: With the car on level ground, the rear (axle end) of the LCA should be slightly lower than the front (body end). That setting should suffice for typical street/strip use. You can set it more agressively by lowering the rearmost LCA end even more if you want. This will grip harder at launch but it will also make your ride less comfortable and it can hurt handling too.

darkhorse_07

CrazyAl,

You've said in the past that depending on if you lower your car and make big horsepower adjustable LCA's should be used. What would you consider big? 500 hp plus?