chevykiller

FINALLY, the piston issues are solved, the tranny is on the way, and everything is finally coming together. The build starts this week. I will keep you posted on the build process. I'm doing quite an overhaul, so we are looking at a full week on the dyno. Here's an overview of the new stuff the car is getting:

302 Stroker with forged bottom end and complete valve train with cams
15X10 Bogarts in rear and 15X3 1/2 up front on Hoosiers for race (keeping 18 X10 billets for street)
Art Carr 4 speed AOD trans with a 3800 stall and trans brake
Hurst Ratchet Shifter
Steeda CMCP Deletes
#60 lbs injectors
Dual pump system being upgraded to a return system
Additional switches
Bottle heater and upgrade to 15 lbs. bottle
Re-route N2O system direct internal with 150 shot
Line Locks
Custom Driveshaft
HD Engine Mounts
KB Boost-a-spark
Canton Windage Tray & Morroso Elliminator Aluminum Race oil pan
ARP Head Studs
Engine Girdle
Axle brace
Race passenger and driver seat with 5-point harness
roll cage
One heck of a custom street and race tune

Pics, videos, and track footage to come soon... Chevy's BEWARE!!!!

W1ldcat

People worry about break in with their cars, but with your enging it's going to be pegged from the get go right? Seeing it's going to be streetable, how many miles do you expect to get out of it, or is it figured in years or seasons?
Thanks,
WC

JJ_Stang

WOW!!! That is goning to one serious machine!! Should be pretty bullet proof now.

F00Mustang

Are you still using the vortech s-trim system, or are you going to upgrade or change it?

ren274u

what numbers do you think youll be running at the track?

CrimeScene

Is it still a mustang or just a shell left?

CrimeScene

chevykiller

Engine break-in is important whether it's a daily driver or a race car. Different builders have different opinions on good break-in methods, but rest assured, there will be a break-in period with the car. At least 200 miles on the dyno before the tires ever touch pavement. It's not being built as a dedicated race car - it's going to be a street car that can also dominate at the track - so we're not building for seasons, we're building this engine to last for 100K miles. 75% of miles on the car will be on the street.

I am still using the vortech S-Trim with 14-16 psi to keep it streetable for a long time to come. I'm using the N2O as a power adder at the track. It is nowhere near just a 'mustang shell'. From visual inspection, other than the roll cage and seats, you would never know it's any different from any other mustang. Most all the goodies are bottom end and underneath. The car hasn't been gutted in any way shape or form. I have done no weight reduction mods that are visible.

As far as times, we'll just have to see. I'm expecting low 6's in the 1/8 and low 10's in the 1/4.


EDIT - Bear in mind too that I have been over 500 rwhp on the stock engine for over a year with no problems. Although this is going to have some power, we are building a streetable car to last. As much as I want power, it is crucial to me to have a reliable car to. This is another reason why this build has been taking so long.

jbailer

Mark, sounds great! I can't wait until it's finished. It will be nice to hear the outcome. Have you ever used a 15lb bottle before? If not, you may want to talk to someone that has before you upgrade. I used a 15lb bottle because I wanted to be able to run more without having to take the bottle back out for a refill. I spent a LOT of time trying to heat the bottle to temp. I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't already know when I say it's very important to have the bottle at the propper pressure/temperature. The 15lb bottle takes so long to heat I learned all the tricks to try to get it heated. Don't get caught at the track with a torch to the bottle . Taking it out of the trunk and putting it on the pavement in the sun helps but then you are taking it out of the car, same with holding it to exhaust... Another trick is bottle heaters can only sense the temp while the valve is open. As the temperature increases, it will decrease the current to the heater. If you keep the bottle valve closed, it will keep heating at full rate and will speed it up. On spring and fall days I would turn my heater on 2 hrs before race time and HOPE it was heated up in time. Before I got rid of that car, I considered putting 2 heaters on it.

Have you considered a N20 controller? Which N20 system are you going with? When you say direct internal injection, are you referring to the CMP deletes with the N20 holes pre-drilled? I think direct port injection is a great idea for better distribution.

Your choice to go with the AOD is very interesting. It certainly has been proven and can instantly get you where you need to go. I also really like your idea of the Hurst Ratchet Shifter. Which one are you going with? Do you have to remove the console? I've considered something like this too since it is already developed and proven. You obviously need to do this right now, my plans are much longer term and I'd like to keep the 5R55 5 speed to get it up to peak torque quicker and keep it there. I figure it's just a matter of time until there's decent support for the 5R55. -Joe