ARP Head Stud Info
#1
ARP Head Stud Info
Livernoise gave some interesting info on another forum when we all were searching for ARP head studs for our cars. They currently do not make a set for the 3V but you can use the 2V or 4V set and here's some of the info...
There currently is not a stud for the 3 valve engine. The height of the head is what creates the difference in stud height. As far as I know the stud count is still the same (20 total) if you recieved less than that in the ARP box than they shorted you. The stud count is the same because the block is no different deckwise from any other mod. The difference is in counterbore and threads. The stock bolts for a 3 valve engine are the exact same TTY bolts as used in previous engines except for small differences but the length is the same. So the bolt does not engage all of the threads in the block in stock configuration.
You have to screw the stud out to make it work. I was not sure if this would work when I first messed around with it, so I tested it, and it has yet to fail. It has held up to 29 lbs boost and over 900 hp with no signs of stretch or distortion or lifting of heads. So at this point I am not as concerned unless somebody wants to run more boost or make more power. I did have a couple of sets of custom length studs made about a year ago for testing but I believe they have all been sold. So when the new stud comes available I plan on using it but until then unless it is going to be an extreme application I have no issues using the regular stud.
Also as far as I know the 2 valve and 4 valve ARP stud are the same, the only differences are 6 point vs. 12 point and either will work. I think the 12 point are around $20 bucks more.
There currently is not a stud for the 3 valve engine. The height of the head is what creates the difference in stud height. As far as I know the stud count is still the same (20 total) if you recieved less than that in the ARP box than they shorted you. The stud count is the same because the block is no different deckwise from any other mod. The difference is in counterbore and threads. The stock bolts for a 3 valve engine are the exact same TTY bolts as used in previous engines except for small differences but the length is the same. So the bolt does not engage all of the threads in the block in stock configuration.
You have to screw the stud out to make it work. I was not sure if this would work when I first messed around with it, so I tested it, and it has yet to fail. It has held up to 29 lbs boost and over 900 hp with no signs of stretch or distortion or lifting of heads. So at this point I am not as concerned unless somebody wants to run more boost or make more power. I did have a couple of sets of custom length studs made about a year ago for testing but I believe they have all been sold. So when the new stud comes available I plan on using it but until then unless it is going to be an extreme application I have no issues using the regular stud.
Also as far as I know the 2 valve and 4 valve ARP stud are the same, the only differences are 6 point vs. 12 point and either will work. I think the 12 point are around $20 bucks more.
#3
RE: ARP Head Stud Info
No. It has nothing to do with boost/power. They are not needed for any other purposes than rebuilding your shortblock or building a new one. The info is for those building up their motors.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post