Sleeper05

I am thinking about throwing in some before i get my new dyno tune (after long tubes and o/r midpipe), so i wont need a new tune until i do cams next summer. how hard would the install be to do it myself? its just taking off the intake manifold and whatever goes along with that, and replacing it, right? (for the most part at least)

i know people haven't nec had the best results, but with my setup aiming at free flow of air all the way through, and having the cash to get them, they wouldn't hurt.

also, what is the performance/quality/install diff between the pauls high performance ones, and the steeda ones?

thanks,
geoff

chevykiller

First of all, I don't think you need them. The stock CMCP operates as a butterfly and is fully open at WOT. You will get nothing from them on an N/A car. The #1 reason forced induction guys need to do them is because they have been proved to bend and twist under considerable psi and can block cylinders and grenade motors. I personally don't think they are worth doing on an n/a car but mandatory with forced induction. JMHO

Either way, this link should help you out...

http://mustang50magazine.com/techart...ete/index.html

Mark

ThisBlood147

Hey CK, what kind of psi would one have to be pushing for this to be an advisable mod? I don't think I'll be moving much past 8 psi in the future, if that.

chevykiller

You have a saleen so you don't have to worry about it. TS s/c kits remove them already. It's only a worry for the centrfi guys.

Mark

Sleeper05

i understand the butterfly operation, but even at a side profile, they block 5-10% of the cross-sectional area that the air flows through i believe. they operate similar to a throttle body, if i am not mistaken, so there is still a piece of thin metal in the way from a side profile at wot. it was just an idea considering i have/am getting just about every other bolt-on and need a new dyno tune anyway. thanks for the input though, i will give it significant weight in my decision.

chevykiller

I just gave you my opinion. If you want another one, here ya go...

You don't even need to buy them. You can simply remove your stock and weld shut. It will cost you of all of about $60-$75.00 if you have the tech experience to DIY.

Each blade is held in with 2 screws. There is a shaft that runs from the front of the Motion Control plates to the Rear. There is a pin in the center of the motion plate that has to be removed before the shaft will come out. So remove the screws that hold the plates,remove the pin that holds the shaft needs to be drilled on one side and punched out through the other and they will come out.

The flaps are fastened to the rod via 3 rivets at each port. The rivets can be drilled out to remove the shaft. Welding the hole after removing the shaft can be tricky. It's easy to warp the plate which would cause it to not seal properly.



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CrazyAl

I discussed the delete plates with Brent at Brenspeed a few weeks ago.

Based on my research and what Brent has told me, they are worth 10+ HP, but mainly in the upper RPM ranges. Brent said that they will cost some HP down low in the RPM band, and recommended them specifically for those cars equipped with low rear-end gears (to better take advantage of the higher RPM performance).

F1Fan

Hi CrazyAl,

If you have the correct tune you will see gains at all RPM's and should never see less HP or torque than with the stock CMCP's in place. This has been confirmed by several people with posted dyno charts showing the baseline runs and with CPCP's in place.


Cheers

CrazyAl

Hey F1fan,

Can you please point me in the direction of those dyno charts? So far the only dyno chart that I have seen is the one from 5.0 Fords magazine.

Thanks.

lostsoul

I know I'm getting mine done like Master Jedi CK stated.. not going to take any chances. I also believe F1fan has a point that you will need to adjust the tune.. from what I hear it makes so much of a difference that you cant even start the car without being retuned fo it. Those things block a good portion of air and should make more hp all around... just add more fuel and fire and more timing