MODGT

I have read about the aluminum driveshaft (I also read about another type but I do not recall the composite) and was wondering if the weight saved is even worth the money spent? Where have you ordered yours?

Airborneflyguy

believe it was a ford ranger shaft but it had to be cut and rebalanced. Everyone that either did the conversion ( I think spyder did) or bought a pre fabbed one has had nothing but good things to say about them. Can't give you specific #s but I know it was worth it because it can take higher HP and causes less parasitic drag. I believe it was something like 1/4 the weight

Timmay!!!

They are well worth the $ IMO. Most aftermarket ones weigh half what the stockers do. Much less rotating mass equals quicker acceleration. I've seen claims of up to .4 secs on otherwise stock GTs. I would fab my own but I don't yet trust myself messing with something that is supposed to be as balanced as a DS. As far as durability, I've think the stock ones are good for up to 500hp, not sure on the torque.

cryptic26djp

Not sure if anyone else has used this but BMR has a Carbon Fiber driveshaft. Maybe you will get some feedback of this one now.

Here is a photo of it: http://www.bmrfabrication.com/05Mustang/DS005.jpg

And here is the link for more details: http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005Mustang.htm (its about half way down the webpage)

This BMR driveshaft is rated at an estimated 1000+ RWHP and your stock driveshaft is only rated at 450~500 RWHP.

Hope this helps!

spyder7724

the ranger shaft deal is the best thing going....not just because i did it first, but because it really works like a factory shaft. uses all fomoco parts and is actually built by ford. it's cheap (available through FRPP) and weighs 16.5 lbs. (stock is roughly 47-49lbs.) when ready for install. easy to install and i tested it at the track in my almost stock auto gt(SCT tune only mod then) and it was worth 2 TENTHS of a second. for $350-400 you can't beat it. +it's stronger than the stock unit. ford did an excellent job when constructing it 6061-T6 aluminum shaft big 1350 series u-joints. it's just perfect , a little long but nothing a good driveline shop can't tkae care of. my has been in since sept. after i got my car and i have zero problems with it. it also is easier to work on the car since this shaft is removed much easier than the stock one. if you need info about what top do and what to buy just do a search...i've posted this stuff a number of times or PM me and i'll give you #'s and stuff.

cryptic26djp

Isn't extremely difficult to balance the shaft after you cut it though? I do not know that I trust any of the professionals around here. I can see it now... driveshaft through the belly of my new GT. Kinda hard to ask Ford to honor some sort of Warranty after that. The BMR should already be balanced and ready to go.

But I guess either way is going to be a risk, huh. Ahhhh, decisions decisions

Skrappy

How much HP can the Ranger shaft take? I want to make an investment for the future...

Thanks,

Skrappy

Wally39

Has anybody really noticed a difference with a lighter driveshaft??? I just wouldn't think it would be much to be worth the big price.

raybroussard

An aluminum driveshaft will be my next mod and I have read an article that states the aluminum driveshaft is good for shaving .2 off of your 1/4 time. I am just waiting for the prices to come down a little on these shafts, not going to pay over $500.00.

nautiluscont

I just got mine back from the fab shop today..... All total it has cost me $40.00 for ranger driveshaft on ebay. $50.00 to ship driveshaft[:@], $45.00 for new pinion flange, $129.00 to shorten, weld, and balance alum. drive shaft., totalling $265.00.