cekim

Plenty of signatures out there quoting your HP range (425-475) with kenne bell/Saleen/Procharger

None of those require mucking with internals to get to those levels...

I have been debating the Saleen myself...

Timmay!!!

Aftermarket driveshafts shave about 20lbs of weight and should be worth .2 sec through the quater. BMRs K-member is supposed to shave 15-20lbs over the stock one as well as provide more solid motor mounts. Both of these items are stonger than their stock counterparts.

05Pony

Yeah but dosn't the whole "No replacment for Displacment" factor come into play with a blower also? Or like i said am i missing something there?

And what blower set up would you guys suggest? Then comes the question of how much is that going to cost +instal?

And how much is an aftermarket driveshaft and K-member ganna cost me is it even worth swopping before throwing in a blower?

cekim

Still true, but given 50%+ increases from SC/TC - the 4.6L does just fine getting to those numbers

I'll let current SC owners comment on specifics, but to get you in the ballpark - the SCs are around $4-5K and I have seen/gotten quotes from 1K-2K to install ($1K seems more reasonable to me, but then I would install it myself).

There are a few more days left on the Saleen group-buy, so take a look...

05Pony

wheres that thread located?

and whats it like to install one of those for somone that knows a little?

Timmay!!!

Most blowers+install run 7-8K, less than you'll spend building a 475hp N/A screamer. As for the D/S the stock one is good up to 500-550hp. after that all bets are off. Some guys are building their own from ranger driveshafts on the cheap. The average I've seen for built afermarket ones go for around $700-$900. As far as FI hopefully by time I have saved enough money prices will go down.

05Pony

so where's the post or where do i find the Saleen group buy?

cekim

It seems to have dropped off the page... - as I understand it us running through the end of the week...

It is haneymotorsport that is running it - you should be able to email them directly and ask

viking396

There are a crap load of F-Bodies you can beat right now, I think this thread went to pointless after the F-Body comment and going back to one to destroy Mustang's. Your point I'm sure is you want to beat LS1's which isn't that hard if they are stock or if you go to FI but ultimately it depends on how many of them you want to beat, 1, some, or all (all of course never happens), if you bought the Mustang to beat up on LS1's you picked the wrong horse because the LS1 can be taken to higher levels N/A than the 3V 4.6 can. If you simply wanted the fastest car you should have stuck with the LS1, now if you only had an F-Body, who cares, heck they came with 6 cyl's so being specific helps.

Plus, sticking to N/A means you have more than LS1's to worry about, now you have to worry about getting your a$$ handed to you by every Mustang owner who went with FI and now has an edge because it doesn't matter how you make horsepower, what matters is who gets to the finish line first. It's a run what ya brung world so if you stick to N/A and lose, don't use the excuse that you were beat by someone with a supercharger, you were just plain beat cause the rest don't mean squat.

wannarun

No reason to a bash a guy for wanting to stick with N/A. Just because everyone else is going S/C or T/C doesn't mean you need to "jump off a bridge also". I personally would like to reach the 425rwhp mark all motor also. It's not impossible either. [8D]

A good place to start is higher compression, better flowing heads, big cam, and probably an intake. A well tuned computer running a consistent 13-13.5:1 A/F won't hurt either.


It won't be cheap, but neither is FI.