Cutting weight
#11
RE: Cutting weight
ORIGINAL: spyder7724
i am the diet man!!!
as of last time weighed 3300# w/o driver and thats an auto car.
i've had my back seat out and it weighs about 20lbs max! so i left it in for now but it will come out next week before i test prior to the nmra race in NJ.
i am the diet man!!!
as of last time weighed 3300# w/o driver and thats an auto car.
i've had my back seat out and it weighs about 20lbs max! so i left it in for now but it will come out next week before i test prior to the nmra race in NJ.
Bottom cushion
Backrests (2)
Backrest latch brackets
Backrest hinges
Seat buckle ends
Seat belts themselves ("retract" assembly = very heavy)
Child seat mounting brackets from under the cushion
...all the associated nuts and bolts....
...etc...
All this stuff is going to add up to at least 40 lbs.
#12
RE: Cutting weight
DAMN GUYS!I was only asking if there was some hidden weight on the car that I over looked.Hey spyder7724,thats some amazing weight cuts but my car is a "REAL DAILY DRIVER" & I wouldnt want to do all that.Mainly want to get the weight out the nose which Ive gotten mostly(I think) but wanted to ask you guys.As far as removing the sway bar,,it does'nt hurt the car...You just can't turn the corners as fast as before so you make a choice.Do you want 1/4 performance or cornering performance?I chose 1/4 performance just not on spyder7724's level.I have a fair amount of bolt ons & am looking to Comp cams & a little head work next but I need to save about 3000.00 first!(OUCH!)Just wanted to see if there was anything else on the car that was deemed,"This sh*t is heavy,take it off!"LOL!Thanks for your help guys!
#13
RE: Cutting weight
Where did you get your aluminum driveshaft????
ORIGINAL: spyder7724
i am the diet man!!!
as of last time weighed 3300# w/o driver and thats an auto car.
i've had my back seat out and it weighs about 20lbs max! so i left it in for now but it will come out next week before i test prior to the nmra race in NJ. the stock battery only weighs 30lbs. so replacing it with a lightweight unit will only net you 10lbs. i did relocate mine to the rear but by the time you add the longer cables its probably a wash. i did it since i plan on running a bigger optima red top which is about 45-50lbs and at that point it's worth relocating. i have an aluminum driveshaft (-40lbs!) bogarts and m/ts's(-100lbs) rad support/swaybar delete, aje kmember and a-arms with strange struts and granatelli coilover conversion. (-100lbs more)
i have since ditched the stock front seats and use a butler built race seat(driver side only) and the exhaust is coming off in favor of two dynomax bullets dumped off after the crossmember. the seats weigh: driver 70lbs, pass 50lbs....exhaust should be another 75-100lbs since i still run the stock mufflers, axle pipes and h-pipe with no cats(i have hooker l/t's attached to the cut factory hpipe).
my goal for weight is 3100# w/o driver. that would equal an approx. 450lbs loss in weight compared to factory delivered curb weight. hell i'll even take out the radio, air bags and bumper crash bars to get more if need be. i think the crash bars are only 15-20lbs each as are the airbags. the radio is 10 lbs. so i hear.
any other idreas guys????????
i smell 11.99 n/a this fall
[IMG]local://upfiles/23191/0E975701F7FC4CEBB9D311BE9903307A.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/23191/582EC89BC0104AF38059AE67F2551F3C.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/23191/51C4F28CB03B4BFBBC6C1CF92AA80751.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/23191/7AE7A89221CD4635A036B4B82E7B490F.jpg[/IMG]
i am the diet man!!!
as of last time weighed 3300# w/o driver and thats an auto car.
i've had my back seat out and it weighs about 20lbs max! so i left it in for now but it will come out next week before i test prior to the nmra race in NJ. the stock battery only weighs 30lbs. so replacing it with a lightweight unit will only net you 10lbs. i did relocate mine to the rear but by the time you add the longer cables its probably a wash. i did it since i plan on running a bigger optima red top which is about 45-50lbs and at that point it's worth relocating. i have an aluminum driveshaft (-40lbs!) bogarts and m/ts's(-100lbs) rad support/swaybar delete, aje kmember and a-arms with strange struts and granatelli coilover conversion. (-100lbs more)
i have since ditched the stock front seats and use a butler built race seat(driver side only) and the exhaust is coming off in favor of two dynomax bullets dumped off after the crossmember. the seats weigh: driver 70lbs, pass 50lbs....exhaust should be another 75-100lbs since i still run the stock mufflers, axle pipes and h-pipe with no cats(i have hooker l/t's attached to the cut factory hpipe).
my goal for weight is 3100# w/o driver. that would equal an approx. 450lbs loss in weight compared to factory delivered curb weight. hell i'll even take out the radio, air bags and bumper crash bars to get more if need be. i think the crash bars are only 15-20lbs each as are the airbags. the radio is 10 lbs. so i hear.
any other idreas guys????????
i smell 11.99 n/a this fall
[IMG]local://upfiles/23191/0E975701F7FC4CEBB9D311BE9903307A.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/23191/582EC89BC0104AF38059AE67F2551F3C.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/23191/51C4F28CB03B4BFBBC6C1CF92AA80751.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/23191/7AE7A89221CD4635A036B4B82E7B490F.jpg[/IMG]
#14
RE: Cutting weight
my ranger conversion.
i've done about a hundred posts regarding this so you should find any info on here you'll ever need to perform the swap. if you need anything just PM me and i'll give you dimensions and part#'s. real quickly heres how it's done:
FRPP M4602R ranger aluminum driveshaft shortened 9"
swap pinion companion flange on rear differential to M4851B(03-04 cobra mustang style)
4 new comp. flange bolts
install driveshaft and gain .20 second -30+lbs. this was tested and comfirmed on my car when all i had was a sct tune. 13.79 to 13.58 same day. the new shaft weighed in at 16.5 lbs. vs. 48lbs i think for the stock one.
total cost using all new components $325 for me. labor charges and finding a good driveline shop are the only variables.
sorry i'm a freak about weight. my last race car weighed 1680lbs and had 705hp so this one feels like an underpowered oil tanker. cheapest & best way to go faster is go lighter!!!!! i just have to make sure everything can be bolted back in place when my wife wants to go to the beach for the weekend.
i've done about a hundred posts regarding this so you should find any info on here you'll ever need to perform the swap. if you need anything just PM me and i'll give you dimensions and part#'s. real quickly heres how it's done:
FRPP M4602R ranger aluminum driveshaft shortened 9"
swap pinion companion flange on rear differential to M4851B(03-04 cobra mustang style)
4 new comp. flange bolts
install driveshaft and gain .20 second -30+lbs. this was tested and comfirmed on my car when all i had was a sct tune. 13.79 to 13.58 same day. the new shaft weighed in at 16.5 lbs. vs. 48lbs i think for the stock one.
total cost using all new components $325 for me. labor charges and finding a good driveline shop are the only variables.
sorry i'm a freak about weight. my last race car weighed 1680lbs and had 705hp so this one feels like an underpowered oil tanker. cheapest & best way to go faster is go lighter!!!!! i just have to make sure everything can be bolted back in place when my wife wants to go to the beach for the weekend.
#16
RE: Cutting weight
how light u willing to go b/c i just for these, a lil pricey but could be worth it.
Carbon Fiber
Vinny
Carbon Fiber
Vinny
#17
RE: Cutting weight
You guys are crazy, lol. I want to make my car weight less but god. I still want to be able to carry 4 people, still want the car to turn, etc. you guys might of gotten the wrong car if your that crazy about weight, lol.
#18
RE: Cutting weight
There is quite a bit you can do on that list and still be practical on the street.
For example: Wheels, tires, driveshaft, K-member, motor mounts, headers, and so on can all be used without affecting turning at all. Lightweight drive assembly (driveshaft, clutch and flywheel) would be a great mod for ANY kind of driving.
There are various extraneous parts you can remove without affecting practical use, such as the hood liner and various metal bits under the car (see the thread that I originally linked to).
Some aftermarket sway bars are tubular, which will be lighter than stock AND stiffer, giving you weight savings and improved cornering at the same time. Likewise, many aftermarket suspension parts are lighter and better than stock. For example, tubular LCAs & Panhard Bar are both lighter than stock and are better for all forms of driving (Drag or cornering).
Also, consider your specific needs. For example, if you don't use the rear seat, then yank it. Ok, perhaps you do use it. Well, you probably aren't using the child seat mounting brackets under there, so you can at least remove those. If you have a good roadside assistance plan (motor club or insurance benefit or whatever) then take out the spare tire and jack--what's the chance you're actually going to need it anyway?
For example: Wheels, tires, driveshaft, K-member, motor mounts, headers, and so on can all be used without affecting turning at all. Lightweight drive assembly (driveshaft, clutch and flywheel) would be a great mod for ANY kind of driving.
There are various extraneous parts you can remove without affecting practical use, such as the hood liner and various metal bits under the car (see the thread that I originally linked to).
Some aftermarket sway bars are tubular, which will be lighter than stock AND stiffer, giving you weight savings and improved cornering at the same time. Likewise, many aftermarket suspension parts are lighter and better than stock. For example, tubular LCAs & Panhard Bar are both lighter than stock and are better for all forms of driving (Drag or cornering).
Also, consider your specific needs. For example, if you don't use the rear seat, then yank it. Ok, perhaps you do use it. Well, you probably aren't using the child seat mounting brackets under there, so you can at least remove those. If you have a good roadside assistance plan (motor club or insurance benefit or whatever) then take out the spare tire and jack--what's the chance you're actually going to need it anyway?
#20
RE: Cutting weight
Well do you notice any difference?
ORIGINAL: Norse1974
Hey I was wondering if you guys have found ways to cut weight off the S197s beside what Ive already done.Here's what Ive stripped from my 06.
Sway Bar/cuts 30lbs
Took out the radiator support & installed custom tubular radiator mount/Cuts 26lbs
Took out hood liner/Not sure what it weighed
Emptied windsheild container/Not sure what it weighed
Those things alone cut about 60-70lbs off the nose of the car!
I also removed the tire,jack & trunk liner/Didnt weigh that stuff either
I have the rear seat delete kit to install as well that will cut 40lbs.
I figure Ive cut maybe 150lbs off the car(Once rear seat delete is done) without it looking like a race car.Is there any other hidden weight that Ive not discovered??I know about the carbon fiber driveline(1000.00!!!),wheels,aluminum fly wheel & stuff.But I would like to know if there is any other hidden weight in these cars.?. THANKS!
Hey I was wondering if you guys have found ways to cut weight off the S197s beside what Ive already done.Here's what Ive stripped from my 06.
Sway Bar/cuts 30lbs
Took out the radiator support & installed custom tubular radiator mount/Cuts 26lbs
Took out hood liner/Not sure what it weighed
Emptied windsheild container/Not sure what it weighed
Those things alone cut about 60-70lbs off the nose of the car!
I also removed the tire,jack & trunk liner/Didnt weigh that stuff either
I have the rear seat delete kit to install as well that will cut 40lbs.
I figure Ive cut maybe 150lbs off the car(Once rear seat delete is done) without it looking like a race car.Is there any other hidden weight that Ive not discovered??I know about the carbon fiber driveline(1000.00!!!),wheels,aluminum fly wheel & stuff.But I would like to know if there is any other hidden weight in these cars.?. THANKS!