Any audiophiles want to help me?
#1
Any audiophiles want to help me?
I originally had an Acura RSX-S. I then grew more hair on my nuts and bought a 2006 Black GT Coupe w/the Shaker 500 (not doing it for me). Here is what I have:
Bass: Rockford Fosgate Stage 3 500watt-RMS 12" subwoofer in a ported Q-Logic box powered by a P6002 Rockford amp.
Speakers: The specs in the Acura were 6.5" for the speakers. I replaced them with 4 Memphis 6.5" co-axial M-class speakers powered by a Memphis Class AB amplifier 4x75 watts (i think).
So here is the problem. The bass is taken care of, and the Memphis amp is good to go, but the 6.5" co-axials don't fit obviously, but I can't even find plastic inserts. I know that custom work can be done to fit them in though. However, one guy at a place called Mobile Werks said that they can put the Memphis speakers in the back of the stang but not in the doors. I'm also told that it's a bitch to do this car because of the Shaker 500. Everything has to be rewired,...yadda yadda yadda. So here are my questions:
1) Should I just buy new speakers?
2) Should I bypass the 8" crappie "made in China" subs in the door?
3) Is there anybody that lives near Bergen county that can help installation? or instructions over e-mail or whatever
*I want to do this by myself. I never did it before but I don't want to pay some guy $125/hour to do this when I know that I can do it with the right instructions.
NOTE: I don't plan on changing the head unit.
I know that was a lot to take in, but help?????
Thanks Guys
Bass: Rockford Fosgate Stage 3 500watt-RMS 12" subwoofer in a ported Q-Logic box powered by a P6002 Rockford amp.
Speakers: The specs in the Acura were 6.5" for the speakers. I replaced them with 4 Memphis 6.5" co-axial M-class speakers powered by a Memphis Class AB amplifier 4x75 watts (i think).
So here is the problem. The bass is taken care of, and the Memphis amp is good to go, but the 6.5" co-axials don't fit obviously, but I can't even find plastic inserts. I know that custom work can be done to fit them in though. However, one guy at a place called Mobile Werks said that they can put the Memphis speakers in the back of the stang but not in the doors. I'm also told that it's a bitch to do this car because of the Shaker 500. Everything has to be rewired,...yadda yadda yadda. So here are my questions:
1) Should I just buy new speakers?
2) Should I bypass the 8" crappie "made in China" subs in the door?
3) Is there anybody that lives near Bergen county that can help installation? or instructions over e-mail or whatever
*I want to do this by myself. I never did it before but I don't want to pay some guy $125/hour to do this when I know that I can do it with the right instructions.
NOTE: I don't plan on changing the head unit.
I know that was a lot to take in, but help?????
Thanks Guys
#2
RE: Any audiophiles want to help me?
i don't mind the door subs after you replace the rest of the stock speakers. all i've upgraded so far is the door/rear 6x8s and added a multi channel amp. the clarity is now outstanding and the bass is plenty for me and my metal music. i'm probably going to upgrade the HU when funds are there but that will be more for additional features and not performance.
anyways, after alot of research i determined the kenwood x680s to be the best 6x8 performance for price. they retail for $150 but you can get them for $60/pair shipped on ebay (what i did). so that's $120 bucks total front and back if you already have a multi channel amp for em. my advice is to just spend the 120 or whatever before chopping into your stang!
anyways, after alot of research i determined the kenwood x680s to be the best 6x8 performance for price. they retail for $150 but you can get them for $60/pair shipped on ebay (what i did). so that's $120 bucks total front and back if you already have a multi channel amp for em. my advice is to just spend the 120 or whatever before chopping into your stang!
#3
RE: Any audiophiles want to help me?
There are a lot of past threads about audio in these cars. Look them up using the search feature and you'll find a lot of good info.
You asked for an Audiophile's input, and you're going to get it! Be careful what you wish for:
First off, "audiophile" and Q-logic do not belong in the same sentance. If you want extremely tight bass then you need a more serious box than a Q-logic. Get a box made from MDF, at least 1" thick on all sides and heavily braced on the inside. The dimensions of the box should be set up specifically for the exact sub you are planning on using. Calculate the box sizes using T/S parameters or follow the suggestions of the sub manufacturer.
If you want to keep the stock head unit, there isn't too much serious work you can do becasue the factory head doesn't have any low-level ouputs, and frankly those "adapaters" to covert to low-level for running an amp suck, as do the high-level inputs on most amps. If you want a serious system, you need to get a new head unit.
The main weakness of the stock system is the speakers in the doors and rear deck--especially the latter. These are easily replaced with 5x7/6x8 units of your choice. If you want to put a 6" round speaker in one of those places, it should fit fine, just get yourself a thin sheet of aircraft plywood and make an adapter plate. Or, buy a plate from some place like crutchfield.
The "door subs" might be made in China, but they're not that bad. They sound pretty good for their size. Upgrading them is a pain, becasue the factory design is a non-standard ohm rating, and they're dual voice coil. There is no drop-in replacement, and even if you found a sub that was an electrical match, chances are it would sound like crap becasue it wouldn't match the factory T/S-parameter designed enclosure.
I would pull the door subs, replace them with a good midbass, and then put a seperate component tweeter in the 5x7 location--all of this run off an aftermarket amp; then use your 12" in the trunk for the real bass.
It goes without saying that one of your first mods if you're serious about sound is to strip the interior and deaden the sheet metal (Dynamat, Fatmat, Damplifier, ...your choice). That is probably the most cost-effective sound quality improvements you can make in this car. No, it's not as glamourous as saying "I just got a new amp", but it's sound quality improvement will probably be better. All the pros do this as their #1 step. It's what seperates a serious system from a basic one.
You asked for an Audiophile's input, and you're going to get it! Be careful what you wish for:
First off, "audiophile" and Q-logic do not belong in the same sentance. If you want extremely tight bass then you need a more serious box than a Q-logic. Get a box made from MDF, at least 1" thick on all sides and heavily braced on the inside. The dimensions of the box should be set up specifically for the exact sub you are planning on using. Calculate the box sizes using T/S parameters or follow the suggestions of the sub manufacturer.
If you want to keep the stock head unit, there isn't too much serious work you can do becasue the factory head doesn't have any low-level ouputs, and frankly those "adapaters" to covert to low-level for running an amp suck, as do the high-level inputs on most amps. If you want a serious system, you need to get a new head unit.
The main weakness of the stock system is the speakers in the doors and rear deck--especially the latter. These are easily replaced with 5x7/6x8 units of your choice. If you want to put a 6" round speaker in one of those places, it should fit fine, just get yourself a thin sheet of aircraft plywood and make an adapter plate. Or, buy a plate from some place like crutchfield.
The "door subs" might be made in China, but they're not that bad. They sound pretty good for their size. Upgrading them is a pain, becasue the factory design is a non-standard ohm rating, and they're dual voice coil. There is no drop-in replacement, and even if you found a sub that was an electrical match, chances are it would sound like crap becasue it wouldn't match the factory T/S-parameter designed enclosure.
I would pull the door subs, replace them with a good midbass, and then put a seperate component tweeter in the 5x7 location--all of this run off an aftermarket amp; then use your 12" in the trunk for the real bass.
It goes without saying that one of your first mods if you're serious about sound is to strip the interior and deaden the sheet metal (Dynamat, Fatmat, Damplifier, ...your choice). That is probably the most cost-effective sound quality improvements you can make in this car. No, it's not as glamourous as saying "I just got a new amp", but it's sound quality improvement will probably be better. All the pros do this as their #1 step. It's what seperates a serious system from a basic one.
#5
RE: Any audiophiles want to help me?
I would consider going with the new audiobahn series with the 6 1/2 midwoofer, 4" midwoofer and tweeters. Thats what i'm putting in mine right now ( never got the shaker system so i'm having some custom door pods made).
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6779.html
This is the best place to buy pretty much any brand of speakers
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6779.html
This is the best place to buy pretty much any brand of speakers
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RedFire281
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04-15-2014 08:48 AM