vsop

So The Lts are ordered, now they come with the bolts to install them, but the other 2 options are Studs and locking bolts.
I'm not doing the install so having studs to make it easier to line it up is not a problem for me. Now the locking header bolts seem like a good idea.
Do the header bolts on our engine loosed up, or need to be re tourqed? I see the stage 8 locking bolts go for about $60 for our engines. Is it worth the money or is it a waste.

I do plan on going with ported heads and a cam in the not so distant future, so the real question is do I do the locking bolts now or just hold off till later and then maybe go with them.


On a somewhat related topic, I have to say one of the best things I have done is started talking with the local Tampa racing guys. They have a forum setup and one of the guys PMed me about the LT install for a shop he works at. Called the shop this morning and they said they would do the install for $200. I'm STOKED...
That is 200 less then the other quote I got. And this shop does some great work, they have some wicked mustangs they have built.

Now I just need to make up my mind on the BMR K member and A arms.

4wheelkillr

i have FRPP shorty headers and I used the bolts that came with the header kit......

the studs and nuts were a ROYAL PAIN IN THE BUTTOCKS...some of the nuts came off...some of the nuts didnt turn at all and just came out with the studs...the end of the studs are a 4 or 5mm hex fitting...so trying to get the studs out of the head is a pain because you only have 4mm to grab on to...

I used the headers bolts that were supplied...i think they torque to about 25ft-lbs....I've checked them 4 or 5 times since my install in april/may and they haven't been loose at all...

I guess if you're planning on someone else doing your install then who cares how hard it is...those guys will obviously have a lift and powertools making the job a lot easier...took me about 4 hours laying on my back using hand tools....

And if you really are worried about the studs/nuts working loose...then get the locking header bolts you mentioned...
$400 for LT's...$200 for install..who cares about an additional $60 for locking studs

vsop

$1227 for the LT's But I was able to get the install price down from $400 to $200 by talking to the local racing crowd.

Haulupki

I just put a set of LT's on and it took a day and a half for me. With many beers ,no lift ,and no help. $200 for the install is a very good deal if its done correctly. For the bolts I just used the ones supplied, which are stainless grade 8. That was two weeks ago and so far no leaks and I did not sinch them up yet. I doubt that I will need it. One of the main things to look for in my opinion is the header flange thickness. If its nice burly and striaght and flat. then you should have no problems with leaks And you could use any bolt or stud that you wish.

vsop

The ARH is supposed to one of the best made headers for our car, so I think they should fit perfectly. I know they use a thick flange so that should not be an issue.
I think I am going to hold off on the locking bolts then. When I have the ported heads installed I'll probably go with the locking header bolts, mostly because I'm going with the Very very ruff idle grind. If I get any leaks I'm sure the shop will tighten them up for me or I could always just do it myself.

I picked this shop not just for the great price (I got a couple more shops recommended to me that would probably match the price) but to build up a relationship with them. They do tons of work on the modular engines, and I when I get the heads installed I don't want to go quote shopping. I rather take it to a place I have dealt with already and can trust who has lots of experiance with mod motors. And since I know I am going to be doing tons of mods in a short amount of time, things are bound to come up that were not expected and having a shop you are comfortable with can make all the diffrence

BoidMorphs

My mechanic just used the same studs that were already on the car and reused the existing gasket as well since the car was pretty new. I've not had any leaks or issues with either. The one problem I've had is the check engine light comes on within a few hundred miles of being reset. My tuner says it's because the O2 sensors are located furthur away from the engine and take longer to warm up. He put in a call to SCT and supposedly retuned my car to fix this but about a week ago the check engine light came on once again. Just the front sensors are turned on. Driving around with the check engine light on sucks because when there really is another engine related problem, I'm not going to know it. I don't think the ARH headers are at fault since people with other makes have had this problem too. I think some tuners are better than others regarding this. If you run into the same problem I'd love to know how to fix it.

vsop

Justin at VMP Tuning will be sending me a Email tune for the headers just so I can drive around with the extra kick. But I will be having him dyno tune the car shortly after the LTs, CMCV delete plates and zoomers are on the car. I don't think he will have a problem with it. He did work for SCT years ago, then started his own tuning buisness. He is one of the top mustang tuners, and know probably more then some of the SCT techs..

I would suggest datalogging your car after you reset the codes. Maybe you will find why it is throwing the code. Also what code is it throwing.

likemike99

those of you who installed them your self, was there much to it. I see it took a while but is it just bold off then reverse?menuvering and

spdbrake

I posted this awhile back on another thread.

I used Mr. Gasket laminated steel gaskets PN# MRG-7558
$20 bucks thru Summit. (Well worh the $ since the gaskets that come with headers are usually junk)

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=+115&y=5&x=17

Also switched to Prothane engine mounts (got it apart already so might as well)
around $102 at Summit.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...&DDS=1&N=700+0

Lastly I used Stainless Breslin locking bolts instead of the supplied ones.
They never loosen, and are much easier to use than Stage-8 bolts (Stage-8 scratch the headers where they contact)
Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads if you're using the Stainless or Black oxide bolt (no matter whose brand) so they don't Gall (F.U. your heads) when removed down the road.
PN 608-027 around $85.00 at Jegs.com (Not listed on the site you have to call them in.)




[IMG]local://upfiles/52139/A6691ECFF54B44CCBB84EC57010272CD.jpg[/IMG]

Justastockmustang

+1

And the cheap gaskets will often compress, leading to loose bolts.