Reducing FRPP Stinger Drone for $5.
#1
Reducing FRPP Stinger Drone for $5.
I installed my FRPP Stingers about a month ago, but had some problems getting them not to leak. I did the usual, I'd go underneath the vehicle when it was cold, start it and feel around the exhaust pipes for leaks. If it leaked, then I'd reposition the mufflers or the clamp and tighten it to 35 lbs ft with my torque wrench. It still leaked!
As a last resort, I went to the local auto store and got two 2.5 inch, U shaped exhaust clamps. I decided to put a second clamp on the muffler above the first, right where it was leaking. I know the instructions say not to use another clamp, but I was determined to stop that leak.
I tightened both clamps slowly, as I wasn't sure what the torque specs should be. I ended up going to 35 lbs ft of torque, which seems to be the absolute max on these.
I started the vehicle and guess what, no leaks. Problem solved. Wonderful.
What I wasn't counting on was the reduction in drone. At first, I thought it might be my imagination. A good friend was riding around with me yesterday and even noticed it without me saying anything. Also, I drove the vehicle for the first time on the interstate this week and really noticed the difference. After about 300 miles in one day, I can tell the exhaust is definitely different.
I'm guessing that the extra clamp was just like putting your finger on a guitar string, it changed the frequency a bit and probably introduced some destructive interference.
I have a one theory. The RPM range at which resonance is the worst may have gotten narrower, which would explain a lot. I'll need to drive it a little more to see if that's what's going on. It seems to me that when I'm at exactly the right frequency the drone can be as bad as it was before, but this happens less frequently. It may be quieter than it was before (I don't have to turn up radio as much to hear it), but without a baseline, it's hard to quantify.
Bottom line:
1) Don't expect drone to go away completely. From what I read, resonators will get rid of it.
2) Sound is not nearly as deep as it used to be, so that's a negative, it's higher pitched.
3) It's quieter. I can once again here my intake sucking in air at wide open throttle.
4) It's cheap, the clamps cost me a total of $5.
5) The exhaust is crimped so tightly to the pipe now that's it's going to be difficult to get it off. Better make sure everything is aligned properly and you're happy with your exhaust before you try it.
I'm going to try a post a sound clip if I can. You're mileage may vary, I'm guessing that the sound change is going to depend on where you place the clamp, how much tighten it, etc.
[IMG]local://upfiles/37741/8F552D6C87A1413FA5C352699A2D2B45.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/37741/F7AB140090374252980239D76809866A.jpg[/IMG]
As a last resort, I went to the local auto store and got two 2.5 inch, U shaped exhaust clamps. I decided to put a second clamp on the muffler above the first, right where it was leaking. I know the instructions say not to use another clamp, but I was determined to stop that leak.
I tightened both clamps slowly, as I wasn't sure what the torque specs should be. I ended up going to 35 lbs ft of torque, which seems to be the absolute max on these.
I started the vehicle and guess what, no leaks. Problem solved. Wonderful.
What I wasn't counting on was the reduction in drone. At first, I thought it might be my imagination. A good friend was riding around with me yesterday and even noticed it without me saying anything. Also, I drove the vehicle for the first time on the interstate this week and really noticed the difference. After about 300 miles in one day, I can tell the exhaust is definitely different.
I'm guessing that the extra clamp was just like putting your finger on a guitar string, it changed the frequency a bit and probably introduced some destructive interference.
I have a one theory. The RPM range at which resonance is the worst may have gotten narrower, which would explain a lot. I'll need to drive it a little more to see if that's what's going on. It seems to me that when I'm at exactly the right frequency the drone can be as bad as it was before, but this happens less frequently. It may be quieter than it was before (I don't have to turn up radio as much to hear it), but without a baseline, it's hard to quantify.
Bottom line:
1) Don't expect drone to go away completely. From what I read, resonators will get rid of it.
2) Sound is not nearly as deep as it used to be, so that's a negative, it's higher pitched.
3) It's quieter. I can once again here my intake sucking in air at wide open throttle.
4) It's cheap, the clamps cost me a total of $5.
5) The exhaust is crimped so tightly to the pipe now that's it's going to be difficult to get it off. Better make sure everything is aligned properly and you're happy with your exhaust before you try it.
I'm going to try a post a sound clip if I can. You're mileage may vary, I'm guessing that the sound change is going to depend on where you place the clamp, how much tighten it, etc.
[IMG]local://upfiles/37741/8F552D6C87A1413FA5C352699A2D2B45.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/37741/F7AB140090374252980239D76809866A.jpg[/IMG]
#2
RE: Reducing FRPP Stinger Drone for $5.
Okay, you had to tell me this a few weeks AFTER I sent my Borlas to Germany lol? The drone was just to much with the long tubes so I switched to Corsas. Absolutely no drone but nowhere near the deep sound either. I miss my old exhaust except for the drone which I believe is much worse in a vert btw. If I ever go back I'll have to try the clamp trick.
#3
RE: Reducing FRPP Stinger Drone for $5.
ORIGINAL: BoidMorphs
Okay, you had to tell me this a few weeks AFTER I sent my Borlas to Germany lol? The drone was just to much with the long tubes so I switched to Corsas. Absolutely no drone but nowhere near the deep sound either. I miss my old exhaust except for the drone which I believe is much worse in a vert btw. If I ever go back I'll have to try the clamp trick.
Okay, you had to tell me this a few weeks AFTER I sent my Borlas to Germany lol? The drone was just to much with the long tubes so I switched to Corsas. Absolutely no drone but nowhere near the deep sound either. I miss my old exhaust except for the drone which I believe is much worse in a vert btw. If I ever go back I'll have to try the clamp trick.
#4
RE: Reducing FRPP Stinger Drone for $5.
ORIGINAL: wmtheflash
I installed my FRPP Stingers about a month ago, but had some problems getting them not to leak. I did the usual, I'd go underneath the vehicle when it was cold, start it and feel around the exhaust pipes for leaks. If it leaked, then I'd reposition the mufflers or the clamp and tighten it to 35 lbs ft with my torque wrench. It still leaked!
As a last resort, I went to the local auto store and got two 2.5 inch, U shaped exhaust clamps. I decided to put a second clamp on the muffler above the first, right where it was leaking. I know the instructions say not to use another clamp, but I was determined to stop that leak.
I tightened both clamps slowly, as I wasn't sure what the torque specs should be. I ended up going to 35 lbs ft of torque, which seems to be the absolute max on these.
I started the vehicle and guess what, no leaks. Problem solved. Wonderful.
What I wasn't counting on was the reduction in drone. At first, I thought it might be my imagination. A good friend was riding around with me yesterday and even noticed it without me saying anything. Also, I drove the vehicle for the first time on the interstate this week and really noticed the difference. After about 300 miles in one day, I can tell the exhaust is definitely different.
I'm guessing that the extra clamp was just like putting your finger on a guitar string, it changed the frequency a bit and probably introduced some destructive interference.
I have a one theory. The RPM range at which resonance is the worst may have gotten narrower, which would explain a lot. I'll need to drive it a little more to see if that's what's going on. It seems to me that when I'm at exactly the right frequency the drone can be as bad as it was before, but this happens less frequently. It may be quieter than it was before (I don't have to turn up radio as much to hear it), but without a baseline, it's hard to quantify.
Bottom line:
1) Don't expect drone to go away completely. From what I read, resonators will get rid of it.
2) Sound is not nearly as deep as it used to be, so that's a negative, it's higher pitched.
3) It's quieter. I can once again here my intake sucking in air at wide open throttle.
4) It's cheap, the clamps cost me a total of $5.
5) The exhaust is crimped so tightly to the pipe now that's it's going to be difficult to get it off. Better make sure everything is aligned properly and you're happy with your exhaust before you try it.
I'm going to try a post a sound clip if I can. You're mileage may vary, I'm guessing that the sound change is going to depend on where you place the clamp, how much tighten it, etc.
[IMG]local://upfiles/37741/8F552D6C87A1413FA5C352699A2D2B45.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/37741/F7AB140090374252980239D76809866A.jpg[/IMG]
I installed my FRPP Stingers about a month ago, but had some problems getting them not to leak. I did the usual, I'd go underneath the vehicle when it was cold, start it and feel around the exhaust pipes for leaks. If it leaked, then I'd reposition the mufflers or the clamp and tighten it to 35 lbs ft with my torque wrench. It still leaked!
As a last resort, I went to the local auto store and got two 2.5 inch, U shaped exhaust clamps. I decided to put a second clamp on the muffler above the first, right where it was leaking. I know the instructions say not to use another clamp, but I was determined to stop that leak.
I tightened both clamps slowly, as I wasn't sure what the torque specs should be. I ended up going to 35 lbs ft of torque, which seems to be the absolute max on these.
I started the vehicle and guess what, no leaks. Problem solved. Wonderful.
What I wasn't counting on was the reduction in drone. At first, I thought it might be my imagination. A good friend was riding around with me yesterday and even noticed it without me saying anything. Also, I drove the vehicle for the first time on the interstate this week and really noticed the difference. After about 300 miles in one day, I can tell the exhaust is definitely different.
I'm guessing that the extra clamp was just like putting your finger on a guitar string, it changed the frequency a bit and probably introduced some destructive interference.
I have a one theory. The RPM range at which resonance is the worst may have gotten narrower, which would explain a lot. I'll need to drive it a little more to see if that's what's going on. It seems to me that when I'm at exactly the right frequency the drone can be as bad as it was before, but this happens less frequently. It may be quieter than it was before (I don't have to turn up radio as much to hear it), but without a baseline, it's hard to quantify.
Bottom line:
1) Don't expect drone to go away completely. From what I read, resonators will get rid of it.
2) Sound is not nearly as deep as it used to be, so that's a negative, it's higher pitched.
3) It's quieter. I can once again here my intake sucking in air at wide open throttle.
4) It's cheap, the clamps cost me a total of $5.
5) The exhaust is crimped so tightly to the pipe now that's it's going to be difficult to get it off. Better make sure everything is aligned properly and you're happy with your exhaust before you try it.
I'm going to try a post a sound clip if I can. You're mileage may vary, I'm guessing that the sound change is going to depend on where you place the clamp, how much tighten it, etc.
[IMG]local://upfiles/37741/8F552D6C87A1413FA5C352699A2D2B45.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/37741/F7AB140090374252980239D76809866A.jpg[/IMG]
I replaced the SLP's with Imco Extreme Axle Backs (lower exhaust tone) and we couldnt use the ford clamps. We had to use the "C" clamps that came with the Imco's.
The SLP's had some bad drone at about 2k to 2.2K.
I was very surprised to notice that after the Imco install that my exhaust drone was completely gone............nadda noth'in.
I thought it was the Imco's. But with your post it appears that this issue is with the ford exhaust clamps.
Could it be that simple.
Good post........should be a sticky.
#7
RE: Reducing FRPP Stinger Drone for $5.
Did you try to locate the Ford Clamps all the way to the end of the muffler where you currently have the U Bolt type clamps? If not that is most likley why they were leaking. The clamps should have been all the way to the end. Just asking.
Richard
Richard
#8
RE: Reducing FRPP Stinger Drone for $5.
Yes, I did try to locate the Ford clamps at the very end of exhaust. I just couldn't get it to seal completely. Rotating the clamps to different positions helped some and did manage to reduce most of the leak on the driver's side to almost nothing.
The passenger side was a lot different, though, it was leaking badly and nothing seemed to help.
I got fed up and figured if one clamp wouldn't do the trick, then I was going to add another clamp to each side. I slid the Ford clamps down just far enough to add the C clamps. I got the idea from a post on one of the Mustang boards.
The C clamps were a lot less forgiving than the Ford clamps. I had a feeling that if you over torqued these, then you could do some damage. The C clamps seemed like they provided a much greater clamping force. I haven't loosened them since installing the axle backs, but I doubt I'd be able to get them off without some serious strain. They are crimped very securely to the exhaust pipe, now.
To answer the question about checking for leaks. I make sure the vehicle is cool and start it up, then crawl under the car (I'm paranoid, so I usually hold my breath) and grab the exhaust pipe just about the axle back. If it's leaking, then you'll feel exahust gas hitting your hand. Make sure the exhuast is cool before touching the pipes, otherwise, you're going to get a bad burn.
The passenger side was a lot different, though, it was leaking badly and nothing seemed to help.
I got fed up and figured if one clamp wouldn't do the trick, then I was going to add another clamp to each side. I slid the Ford clamps down just far enough to add the C clamps. I got the idea from a post on one of the Mustang boards.
The C clamps were a lot less forgiving than the Ford clamps. I had a feeling that if you over torqued these, then you could do some damage. The C clamps seemed like they provided a much greater clamping force. I haven't loosened them since installing the axle backs, but I doubt I'd be able to get them off without some serious strain. They are crimped very securely to the exhaust pipe, now.
To answer the question about checking for leaks. I make sure the vehicle is cool and start it up, then crawl under the car (I'm paranoid, so I usually hold my breath) and grab the exhaust pipe just about the axle back. If it's leaking, then you'll feel exahust gas hitting your hand. Make sure the exhuast is cool before touching the pipes, otherwise, you're going to get a bad burn.
#9
RE: Reducing FRPP Stinger Drone for $5.
ORIGINAL: wmtheflash
Yes, I did try to locate the Ford clamps at the very end of exhaust. I just couldn't get it to seal completely. Rotating the clamps to different positions helped some and did manage to reduce most of the leak on the driver's side to almost nothing.
The passenger side was a lot different, though, it was leaking badly and nothing seemed to help.
I got fed up and figured if one clamp wouldn't do the trick, then I was going to add another clamp to each side. I slid the Ford clamps down just far enough to add the C clamps. I got the idea from a post on one of the Mustang boards.
The C clamps were a lot less forgiving than the Ford clamps. I had a feeling that if you over torqued these, then you could do some damage. The C clamps seemed like they provided a much greater clamping force. I haven't loosened them since installing the axle backs, but I doubt I'd be able to get them off without some serious strain. They are crimped very securely to the exhaust pipe, now.
To answer the question about checking for leaks. I make sure the vehicle is cool and start it up, then crawl under the car (I'm paranoid, so I usually hold my breath) and grap the exhaust pipe just about the axle back. If it's leaking, then you'll feel exahust gas hitting your hand. Make sure the exhuast is cool before touching the pipes, otherwise, you're going to get a bad burn.
Yes, I did try to locate the Ford clamps at the very end of exhaust. I just couldn't get it to seal completely. Rotating the clamps to different positions helped some and did manage to reduce most of the leak on the driver's side to almost nothing.
The passenger side was a lot different, though, it was leaking badly and nothing seemed to help.
I got fed up and figured if one clamp wouldn't do the trick, then I was going to add another clamp to each side. I slid the Ford clamps down just far enough to add the C clamps. I got the idea from a post on one of the Mustang boards.
The C clamps were a lot less forgiving than the Ford clamps. I had a feeling that if you over torqued these, then you could do some damage. The C clamps seemed like they provided a much greater clamping force. I haven't loosened them since installing the axle backs, but I doubt I'd be able to get them off without some serious strain. They are crimped very securely to the exhaust pipe, now.
To answer the question about checking for leaks. I make sure the vehicle is cool and start it up, then crawl under the car (I'm paranoid, so I usually hold my breath) and grap the exhaust pipe just about the axle back. If it's leaking, then you'll feel exahust gas hitting your hand. Make sure the exhuast is cool before touching the pipes, otherwise, you're going to get a bad burn.
As for checking for leaks there is a easy way. Get yourself a spray bottle and fill with water then mix in some Dawn or other dishwashing soap into the bottle and then spray the area while cold and see if you get bubbles.
Richard
#10
RE: Reducing FRPP Stinger Drone for $5.
How much of an issue is it if one of the axle backs is leaking just a little bit? When I feel for air, it is barely noticable on the passenger side and non existant on the drivers side.
Also.. I dont have a torq wrench, but I tightened them down as hard as I could, since the factory ones were on pretty tight. I assume thats OK?
Also.. I dont have a torq wrench, but I tightened them down as hard as I could, since the factory ones were on pretty tight. I assume thats OK?