TASSY5

OK first of all hello to you all. I am an older GT Mustang guy 39 and did all of the stret racing for years when younger and now helping my sons tune their import carand F150 truck. Me being DAD bought MOM a 07 Alloy Grey 5 Speed with the premium package.
I am already addicted to this site and the car for improvements. I think my first mod will be the C&L intake but not sure of the TUNE you guys say is best.(So Which one is better? Preditor, Brenspeed, Diablo)

Also the next mod will be a American racing long tube header system with high flow cats 1.75" or 1 5/8" which will be better. and I guess that means i need to buy a MID PIPE ALSO??<<(do I?) and from my take the BORLA STINGERS or Borla Mufflers are best for sound and quality. (keep in mind it's my wifes car.)

Then it will be 4.10 gears

And finally a body kit. and possibly down the road a supercharger but not 100% on that yet Big $$$$

Any help is appreciated.
TASSY5

mustangman02232

go with 4.30s

Menace

Hello and welcome to the forums, congrats on your purchase!

Your first purchase should be the intake/tune and I'd recommend Brenspeed of Bamachips, as I've only hear good things about them. Also, make sure SCT Xcalibrator2 is the only one you go with. There aren't many tuners that deal with Diablo.

I'd stick with the 3.55 gears (If you got that upgrade.) and not go with the 4.10 gears. Unless you want to hurt your top end, and gas mileage, there's really no point in doing this to a car that's primarily used to get you to and from work, and to pick up groceries... (You did say it was your wife's car... hehe.) Though that's entirely up to you on which route you would go.

I'd also recommend getting under drive pulleys, they are a very nice upgrade and I don't think many people have had issues with electrical problems.

As far as exhaust goes, this is mainly one of the biggest things owner's worry about. The stock exhaust doesn't quite scream "Mustang" To be honest I've heard many of the exhaust setups in person, and I really haven't liked any of them. I've had the O/R H-pipe & SLP Loudmouth setup. It sounded loud and mean, but at low RPMs when normally driving... it had this horrible ricey-sound that I just couldn't stand. The fix to this was simply speed up past that RPM. This setup is loud however, as it's more or less straight pipe. I had Magnaflow resonators welded in, and it deepened the sound but there was still a little bit of that sound I previously tried to explain, so I took the O/R pipe off and put the cats back on. The cats help even out the sound and give it a constant tempo. That is my current setup, and it's awfully quiet and I don't like it... but until I find a new over the axle pipe (because the resonators are welded in, might as well get all new pipe instead of chopping the old one apart and adding new pipe.) I won't be changing it any time soon. My recommendation is to get Flowmaster's Original 40 series mufflers, and have an exhaust shop weld them in and as well as tips of your choice. They do sound good, and I can only imagine how they would sound with LT Headers w/ high flow cats. This is the setup I want to go. A lot of people love the SLP Loudmouth's sound, but to be honest I installed them with my O/R Pipe so I never heard them alone. Once I heard the 40 series I fell in love, but they need to be a little louder (the LT & High flow cats should make it a little louder.)

Last but not least, the car off the show room floor comes with a lot of weaknesses. I'm speaking of personal experiences, and my wheel hop was horrible. I remember going to the track and whenever the car would lose traction it would VIBRATE the interior cabin, might be why I have so many squeaks and noises, but anyway... Lower Control Arms are a majority of the problem. I sometimes get vibration, especially when it's raining and the tires spin but it's not nearly as severe. So I'd recommend getting an Upper Control Arm too, as well as the relocation bracket for the lower control arm, and the new upgraded bracket for the upper control arm. Might as well replaced the panhard brace and bar while you are back there. This should give you a better feeling ride.

Another thing, is the drive shaft. Mine is fond of clunking, and I think I have this clunking confused with the rear-end problems. So a good way to pick up some power, is to get an aluminum driveshaft. Spend the extra dough and get Powerhouse's. It's on my wish list.

Instead of gears, upgrade your differential with a detriot truetrac, and upgrade your cover. This should cure the early problem you may have with your clutchpacks.

Finally, upgrade all your fluids. Break everything in first, or throw it in right away. It's debateable. I use Royal Purple oil, and have yet to switch out my tranny/rear end fluids. I'll probably be using Royal purple for my transmission fluid, and I think CrazyAl convinced me to use Redline's (something or another) gear oil. Also, it might be a good idea to put Redline's water wetter in your coolant, you'll have to drain some of your existing coolant so as to not over flow it.

I'm sure tires and wheels are on your list for appearance items, so I won't have to mention those. All in all you should have a nice sounding, smooth shifting, and fairly quick car. With those upgrades you'd be around 315-335 RWHP I'd imagine. I'm not a human dyno, so could be more or less.

Nevertheless, enjoy the car.

WhiteStallion06

+1 and on here 39 does not make you an old guy

TASSY5

Thanks guys. I have a lot of thinking to do as of now I think my first mod will be the C&L CAI intake with the tuner right here http://www.lethalperformance.com/cac...PACK-2_MED.jpgthen i am going to look for the 1" 5/8" LT headers with hi flo cats $1430.00 then Borla exhaust exhaust and mid pipe.
And last I will be doing the upgrade of the rear end gears, and I guess 4.10's will do me fine.

Thanks for all the help.

WhiteStallion06

If i were you itd be worth it to get the C&L cai and tuner from brenspeed.com brent does and awesome custom tune ... if not you can go with the JLT and custom tune from b a m a c h i p s doug really knows what hes doing as well .... its worth it to just buy the tune package from them because you get the custom tune ..... if you buy the tuner from somewhere else thats great but youll have to pay the extra to get a custom tune from one of these tuners.... if you not getting it dyno tuned the best way to go is the canned tunes from these too guys were reputable and the best tunes .... i just put my 93 oct tune from brenspeed in yesterday with my cai and wow it feels like a whole new car ..

Menace

If you purchase a LT Header w/ high flow cats it comes with a mid-pipe. Hence the high flow cats. They are a part of the mid-pipe. Group buys are pretty common around here, so you could get them cheaper then $1400 if you just wait.

TASSY5

Thanks, I will look out for a group buy with long tubes.
What is better for the 07 stang? 1.75's or 1 5/8's

CrazyAl

For a stock engine, either 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 will be about the same. There is no measureable difference on the Dyno. However, the 1 3/4 is better if you start making more serious HP down the road. 1 3/4 does make more power if you have a supercharger, or new cams, ported heads, etc.

That being said, I would buy 1 3/4 unless you KNOW there is no way you are going to get more serious with mods later on. In my experience the best brands of longtubes are Kooks, American Racing, and Dynatech. They are all 304 stainless steel (the best), and their fit-and-finish is top of the line.

As for the gears, I am going to disagree with Menace. 4.10 gears are a great mod. They do lower your gas mileage, but only by a small amount. I lost 1 MPG after my gear swap. I still get better than 20 MPG in town and about 26 HWY. Also, they do not decrease your top end. Sure, in a fantasyland where there was no wind resistance they would drop your top speed. But becasue our cars are limited by DRAG, not redline in top gear, 4.10s will not decrease your top end. Besides, 99% of your driving is going to be at lower speeds anyway. Who cares about that theoretical top 1% when you're constantly driving in that other 99. 4.10s will put a big smile on your face!!

F1Fan

DUDE!

You have no idea, 39 is about AVERAGE for the Mustang guys from what I've seen! I was out at ST Motorsports for the Mustang dyno dayand Adam (owner),was telling me that the Mustang guys are the BEST because we're older than the Neon guys and not as nuts. I'm going on 52 in a few months and I'm NOT an old guy based on the crowd I've seen at many Mustang gatherings and events.

Anyway to answer your questions IMO the best first hop-up is a CAI kit and handheld tuner with a good tune.The best CAI kits available are from major makers who have been around for a long time and have major commitments to the car. FRPP (Ford Racing Performance Products), is at the top of my list for many of the straight bolt-on hop-ups for many reasons. One of the bestreasons is the high quality and reliability of the parts that FRPPsells. Ford goes out to the aftermarket and finds the best products available to lable as their own and then agrees to buy a zillion of them making the prices very competitive. For example FRPPsells Steeda's CAI kit,EibachProKit springs and anti-roll bars and a few other well known goodies as Ford brandedparts. Thistells you something about these parts, they work,are reliable and are reasonably priced. All FRPP partshave a high level of accessability, you can get them everywhere, delaers and on-line. Many dealers will sell to you at a good discount if you are a member of a localornational Mustang club. Look for FRPP parts, easy to get and easy to install and the local Ford dealer isless likely to give you trouble when warranty issues arise (and they always do),if you are buying the parts fromhim.

My suggestions for effective,no hassle CAI kits are the FRPP/Steeda CAI kit with 90mm MAF housing and Ford's custom calibration packageor C&L's Street CAI intake kit with a canned tune from one of the mail order tuners like Brenspeed or Evolution. If you buy a Steeda or FRPP CAI you can buy them with the calibration tool or handheld tuner WITH good tune alreadyinstalled by Steeda. For a C&L you will need to buy the tuner from a good shop that usually will include a canned tune based on your hop ups and the CAI kit you buy from them. Many of these mail order tuners use SCT handheld tuners.

The FRPP/Steedatune is 50 states emissions legal (when used with the Ford calbration tool), even in California withsmog ***** lurking at every cornerit has an E.O. ntmber to keep you out of jail. The Steeda CAI kit is the same CAIas supplied to FRPP but you don't get the emissions legal calibration tool. Instead to maximize the power gain from theSteedaCAI kit youwill requireda handheld tuner made by SCT or Diablo with a Steeda part number. Thehandheld tuneraddsto the cost of the CAI kitbut also givesyoucontrol over many little items thatcommonly need to be changed as youadd bolt-on hop-up parts or larger wheels and tires. TheSteeda part numberedDiablo and SCTtuners comepreloaded from Steedawith Steeda specific tunes for the CAI kit andCMCP delete plates unlike the universal versions which have no specific tune supplied by the manufacture. I boughta Steeda specificDiablo Predator tuner and have updatedthe firmware for the handheld as the updates are made available. These supplied tunes are very good as wittnessed by mymotor's dyno pulls.Ata recent Mustang dyno dayat ST Motorsports after Adamfinished the dyno pulls onmy car he commented on how good the numbers were andasked who's tuneit was. He said he doubtedthere was much if anysiginificant power to be found even if he did a full custom dyno tune based on the data logging he did on the Predatorandthe A/F ratio during the dyno pulls. The Diablo suppied cannedtunesare very good and I believetheSteeda specific XCal2 from Steedawill have tunes that arejust as good. For the money the Steeda/FRPP CAI kitis a very hard combination to beat if you go with a handheld tuner/CAI kit package and look around on the internet for good pricing from a reliable vendor. The Steeda/FRPP kit can also be upgraded with a largerhigh-flow intake tube when you have the need for more air flow as with a hotter cam and 62mm throttle body or maybe a supercharger. But these are down the road for you most likely.

The C&L street intake CAIis my second choice in CAI kits but only because I prefer the Steeda/FRPP stainless steel heat shield/air dam and rubber or plastic intake tubedesign over the plastic shield and metal tube of the C&L Street intake.The C&L street intake CAI isjust aseffective as the Original Steeda/FRPP CAI kit. The C&L street CAI kit is a good solid, durable kit and will last a long time. C&L has been around for a long time and has learned how to buildCAI's right.I trust that they will continue to build effective CAI kits for a long time. C&L's CAI kitcan also be upgraded with the "Racer" intake tube for more airflow when the need arises.

Just ignore the folks who say Diablo or SCT makes a better tuner as BOTH will do essentially the same thingsto your car's ECU and for your application what matters is which one will come with the best tune for the CAI kit you buy. There are certainly differences in the dealer/dyno tuner's software packages and some of the best dyno tuners use both and suggest one for some applications and the other for other applications. It all depends on what system the tuner is more comfortable with and which system the tuner has a better understading of for a particualr application. If I could do it all over again I would buy an X-Cal2 and the Pro Racer Package but that's just me and the fact that Diablo has been promisinga single user version of the CMR software (essentiallya PRP for Predators),for over a year. I know tuners that dynotune with BOTH systems and they have all said thatboth are capable ofachiving the same level of power anddrivability though one may be easier to us for some things and the other maybe easier for others. In essence theDiablo and SCT tunersare both capable systems and the best thing to consider is if you have a good local dyno tuning shop and which system they use if you plan to use the local guy. If you are going with a mail order tuner SCT is the