saud alzaabi

I have been doing a research after talking to crazyAL about the spec clutchs..

they seem to be a great company so Just before ordering them for a friend I wanted to aska couple of questions..

How do you like them ? and Im getting stage 1 since he is staying N/A and he is also considering of getting an aluminum flywheel with it.

although one thing that I need to understand.. what is the pressure plate ?

do u know anysite that sells them cheaper than the company itself ?

CrazyAl

Hey again Saud.

A clutch assembly is composed of three seperate parts: The flywheel, the clutch disc, and the pressure plate. The pressure plate bolts onto the flywheel. It has a spring mechanism that clamps the clutch disc against the flywheel. This is what keeps your clutch engaged when you drive.

As for what to buy, you had asked me about ways to get more HP. My suggestion was to change your clutch out so that you can reduce it's weight.

The FLYWHEEL is really the key to doing this. There is no point in changing out just the clutch itself from a weight savings point of view. The FLYWHEEL will save you weight, and so will Spec's aluminum pressure plate option. Really all you want is the flywheel and the pressure plate, but you have to buy the clutch to get the other parts.

As for getting them cheaper, talk to Jared @ Lethal Performance. Just about any aftermarket dealer that stocks Spec can sell them for much cheaper than the list price.

Timmay!!!

With the spec clutches, what additional features do the +s denote for any given stage? Also how much of a difference is there between a stage 2 and stage 3+? Brenspeed has a stage 2 and aluminum flywheel combo for $689. Cheapest combo I've seen so far. Is there anything missing from the deal. Also what exactly is a concentric slave cylinder? Does this need to be replaced everytime you change a clutch?

moosestang

I have the same question. I'm sure i'll be answering it myself since I beat the hell out of my stock clutch allready.

PonyGT2005

I can't speak for the whole line, but the Spec Stage 2 has held up really well (much better than the stock clutch). The Stage 2 is very streetable and so is the 2+, and frankly I've driven a 3+ and it was good too. But if you don't need the higher tolerance then you can save money and go with the Stage 2.

The springs apparentlyhave a higher spring rate and this will result in more noise from gear rattle than the stock system. I've discussed this with Spec but its really only noticable at low RPM (like transitioning through the 1200 range in first gear) and only when I lope through the RPMs (like in stop and go traffi)...when I accelerate smoothly there is no real increase in NVH and when I jump on it there is a lot more enjoyable noise in general so I could care less

The+ designated systems have a higher HP/Torque threshold than the comparative system (so 2+ is more capable than 2, and so on) and therefore are more expensive.

The slave cylinder is a different mechanism from the throwout bearing for operating the clutch...I was told that this is a "dealer only" item.

gloryboy

Just wondering why you want to change the clutch if you're staying na...if its just for the weight, you can just change the flywheel.....but the Specs seem to be the popular choice. Some people had probs with the centerforce clutches not disengaging but i think that has been remedied. Spec stage 3 is what a lot of the s/c guys are running w/ great results. You may want to consider that route so when the s/c bug sets in your dont have to upgrade again....[sm=gears.gif]

Boostaddict

In regards to the different stages and the + added to them I'll do my best to explain. All clutched use different material depending on the power level and type of driving they are made for. In this case the Stage 2 is made from a Kevlar Material which offers great holding power and street driveability. The Stage 2+ has a more agressive composite carbon kevlar which holds more power still giving you the driveability of the stage 2. Where we really see the + come into play is with the Stage 3 Kit. The regular Stage 3 Kit holds a ton of power but has a characteristic of being real grabby taking away it's driveability. Some refer to the grabbyness of the Stage 3 as "Chatter". This is where we see the advantage of the Stage 3+. For this setup the Stage 3 is a puc design whereas the Stage 3+ is a Full face disc. With that being said the 3+ is now rated at a higher hp/tq level as well as having less chatter and better street manors as well because its a full face disc. That hopefully explains some of it.

In regards to pricing we are a high volume Spec Dealer and have these kits and flywheels in stock all the times as well as being a Fidanza WD distributor which gives us the ability to give excellent pricing and quick shipping on all their flywheels as well.

At this time we also have excellent deals on the all new Fidanza Clutch Lineup and offer Sweet Package deals on the Fidanza Clutch and Flywheel Combo. PM me or call us if you're interested and I'll be glad to suggest a combo based on your HP level and driving style. Thanks for all the support. Jared@Lethal

Timmay!!!

Thanks for the explanation, I nowunderstand perfectly what the + means for the diff stages. But what about the concentric slave cylinder? Do I need a new one or can I reuse the one I already have if its still servicable? Thanks Jared!

saud alzaabi

Jared, What does this mean in your site ? and how come there is no option for the aluminum pressure plate ? or does it come along ?

here is what I mean.





Thanks

Boostaddict

You can reuse the stock slae cylinder and it doesn't need to be replaced unless it's damaged. Just bleed it and it should work fine with no issues.
Here's how to bleed. http://www.modularfords.com/forums/a...h-bleeding.pdf