MexGT

Ok, we all know the basic mods for the V8's, and surely getting 400hp shouldn't be as hard as it sounds (33% increase in stock hp) NO nitrous,NO blower in mind, but i want to be sure i'm planning the right thing, i would like opinions of everyone who knows about bolt-ons and such

1.-C & L + SCT programmer (brenspeed tune)
2.- LT Headers + O/R pype (I have in mind JBA, if theres any better for some reason please tell me wich ones and why)
3.- Motoblue H.O. series 3 piece pulley set (Harmonic, water pump,Idler)
4.- Meziere Water pump + relay kit
4.- Granatelli Coil on packs & connectors
5.- BBK throttle body
6.- Comp cams stage 3
7.- Either Violators or SLP¨axelbacks (though this ones don't give any hp at all)

Up to this aftermarket bolt ons, performance-wise I'm sure i'll install them, but theres others i 'm thinking in but maybe could be much of a problem.
Like... Steeda CMDP, are this ones worthy in a NA car? I've read here several times those are only recomended for supercharged cars and with 4.10+ gears (I'm automatic btw) cause they trend to lower response at low rpm's. [:@]
And the Aluminum driveshaft, I'f i have my car lowered 1.5" front and 2" rear, getting the Ashaft will cause me some major problems?

What else can i do to increase hp, without porting heads?
And should i get over the 400hp crank mark with the first 6 mods in the car ?

I would greatly apreciate everyones help !

SRT_what

Granatelli coil-on packs are apparently garbage from what most people have said, and do nothing to help HP in n/a cars. I would add the CMDPs to your recipe if you aren't planning on going forced induction. They help up until you throw a blower on the car. I'd steer clear of JBA headers. Stick with Kooks, American Racing or Dynatech... those are probably the best three brands. *Edit... reason being; quality T-304 stainless, and fantastic instructions. 1 3/4" will probably give you a teeny bit more power than the 1 5/8" too.

spyder7724

400hp at the crank is do-able but it might require a little bit of engine work. i have just about all the bolt on stuff right now and judging by my e.t. and speed i'm somewhere around 375hp at the crank. to the wheels the mustang dyno only registered 282hp. mostly due to my high stall converter.
i think with the usual bolt ons and some cams you can be a tick over 400hp at the crank. withmy new engine i'm starting on(very soon)the goal is 500+hp at the crank n/a. of course this is going to take a little bit more aggressive approach so my street driving may be somewhat limited but it should still do okay. just not a daily driver. 11:1 compression really bumpy cams, big bore block/stroker crank, ported heads and a sheetmetal intake. no power adders just all n/a. why? bracket racing. consistancy. power adders aren't very consistant especially in the later rounds of competition.
if you don't care about that sort of thing then just get a s/c turbo or nitrous. it's so much easier and cheaper. no doubt if i just wanted to go fast i'd call powerhouse or hellion and get a turbo setup.

Boostaddict

Whipple Non-Intercooled kit and be done!!

RetroS197

You won't be able to do it naturally without porting the heads. Why don't you wan't to port them?Check out blowbyracing.com and click the videos. they did 406 at the wheels on RACE OCTANE. I talked to them yesterday and they say with the new intake manifold they should be able to do 400 NA.

|UCF|chron

stroke it to 5.0l, that should help some

CrazyAl

400 at the crank is not particularly difficult. You don't need to port, bore, or stroke, which is nice becasue those all entail some serious $$$.

Here is my thoughts on the mods you listed:

1.-C & L + SCT programmer (brenspeed tune) GREAT
2.- LT Headers + O/R pype (I have in mind JBA, if theres any better for some reason please tell me wich ones and why) Dynatech, Kooks, or American Racing instead. They are better quality and better material.
3.- Motoblue H.O. series 3 piece pulley set (Harmonic, water pump,Idler) Fine, but don't install the idler. It's just useless "jewlery" and it happens to weigh more than the OEM idler.
4.- Meziere Water pump + relay kit Don't bother. Once you have UDPs, adding this is only 1-2 more HP, and it will add an electrical load to your car that you don't want.
4.- Granatelli Coil on packs & connectors Useless.
5.- BBK throttle body This is asking for trouble. Read the past posts on the forum about throttle bodies...many people have had major problems with them....use with caution.


Brenspeed (and others) have acheived around 345-350 RWHP using CAI/Tune, UDP, CMCP deletes, longtubes, and cams. This equates to OVER 400 HP at the crank, easy. If you assume 15% drivetrain losses, 350 at the wheels is around 410 at the crank.

This is the route I would go. Cams will be your ticket to the high numbers, and they are much more cost-effective ($$ for HP) than ported heads or a modified engine.

However, if you want to exceed the 400HP at the crank mark, then I would go for the supercharger instead. It would be very expensive to do it N/A. Blow-By claims to have done it, but if you add up the prices of all the stuff they did, you could buy a S/C for less...and have a much easier (cheaper) install.
6.- Comp camps stage 3
7.- Either Violators or SLP¨axelbacks (though this ones don't give any hp at all)

MusiccityGT

I am at 345/333 at the wheels.Since that dyno,I added a Fidanza Flywheel and 1 piece D/S (have a Denny's on order due to a vibration at 100 with my PSI shaft)and D/F clutch, so may have added a little more at the wheels. Your proposed combo is similair to what I have minus the COPs and T/B. Both are asking for a headache.

MexGT

Aye, thanks a bunch, so from what experienced people know, ima be taking off Throttle body and COPs
Switching to Dynatechs LT´s (lethalperformance for 700 bucks best i've seen)

Having an A-Driveshaft will be much of a problem also if the car is lowered... from what i've heard, right?

CrazyAl

I have a 4" driveshaft and my car is lowered...and no problems, even with 4 adults in the car.

Some people have claimed to have clearance issues with a lowered car and an aftermarket driveshaft. This only occurs if something is improperly adjusted...for example, if the pinion angle is not properly set. But if the installation is done right there will be no problems. Or, if you are still worried about it, get one of the newer driveshafts with a smaller OD, which will have more clearance.