fordfanboy

I wanted to discuss those 'FIRST MODS' that are must have. Now we pretty much know the order of 1-3 so here they are:

1. CAI & Tune
2. Gears
3. Upper and Lower CA's, Panhard bar & springs

Now here is my opinion on what comes next but I'm sure there are other opinions so here's a great place to list them.

4. 1-piece lightweight DS
5. Complete exhaust with x or h pipe
6. TC for auto and clutch/flywheel for manual
7. L/T Headers
8. New front brakes or hawk pads and SS lines
9. CMCP Deletes (Remove if comes with your FI kit)
10. GT500 fuel system or Dual GT supercar pumps (again - remove if comes with your FI kit)
11. Good rubber for street and strip
12. P/P heads if you plan on staying N/A but no if you plan on FI
13. FI kit with CUSTOM TUNE
14. #60 injectors
15. Fuel rails
16. Upgraded valve train (inconel valves, titanium springs & retainers at the least) P/P Heads too if you can get a deal but not required with FI kits)
17. Smaller pulleys for SC and boost controller for TC
18. Radiator
19. Line locks
20. Differential and Girdle

This of course is my 'stock motor' list...lol A rebuild project is for another thread...

fordfanboy

Just for giggles, here's what I like product wise for the list... (again - just my opinion)

1. Predator with MAF.i.a. adapter
2. 4.10's (FRPP)
3. Metco for CA's, Steeda for panhard and Eibach for springs
4. PH (powerhouse or ford ranger conversion)
5. Borla with H-pipe
6. TCI for TC and Centerforce clutch and SYN-R-G aluminum flywheel for manuals
7. JBA or Kooks coated
8. Baer extreme or just Hawk pads and ss lines with stockers
9. FRPP (cause they are the cheapest and same as steeda)
10. self expanatory
11. MT ET Streets for strip and Nitto NT555 for front and NT555R for rear for street
12. Livernoise
13. Whipple for TS, Procharger for Centrifi, and Powerhouse for Turbo
14. Semens
15. CPR
16. Manley and for the valves I like their inconel 1mm oversize
17. from your kit manufacturer or boost controller for turbo I like the Home depot do-it-yourself version
18. Fluidyne
19. PMP (Peidmont modualr Performance
20. Tru Trak for the differential and LPW low profile for the girdle

CrazyAl

A couple comments:

I would add the rear sway bar as a MUCH more important mod than the UCA.
Also, LCA relocation brackets are mandatory for goodtraction if your car is lowered or if you hit the strip a lot.

If you are staying N/A, a set of cams is much better bang-for-the-buck than Heads. You get 90% of the performance for less than half the price.


Regarding components:

Steeda fabricated suspension components have mediorce welds. BMR or Spohn are far superior fab quality and are no more expensive.

Spec clutch weighs about 30% less than the SYN-R-G setup.

JBA headers are made of 409 stainless. No thanks! Kooks, American Racing, or Dynatech are 100% 304 SS.

howarmat

4. 1-piece lightweight DS -----------PMPParts.com Denny's Driveshaft
5. Complete exhaust with x or h pipe------------Pypes h-pipe and PMPParts for FRPP Stingers -> vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0Pzr09JRPg
8. New front brakes or hawk pads and SS lines-------PMPParts once again for the pads
9. CMCP Deletes (Remove if comes with your FI kit) ------PMP $90 shipped, nowhere cheaper
11. Good rubber for street and strip-----Tirerack is a good place to start
19. Line lock-------PMP They carry everything or can get anything you need really.

There are other places that carry the parts and might be cheaper but I know Josh and Kevin have great service.

fordfanboy

Great points Al. I can't believe I forgot about the rear sway bar. You are 100% right that should come first as #3. The LCA Relocation brackets are an opinion. I ran very fine without them for a year and 60' in the 1.5's with no issues. I had bought them for use but scrapped them altogether when I went with the BMR Extreme anti roll bar. I still don't have them and 60' as low as the 1.3's. Steeda is inferior on every level - you are correct but the panhard bar is one of the few products they have that does the job IMO but it certainly is not the 'best' choice - but one that worked for me. I disagree with the cams statement regardless of what vendors are preaching. Until some actual 'custom grinds' come out - I would hold off. All of the stage grinds offerred now and much more lift wise than stock and very close to stock. They are designed more for lope than performance in my opinion. I know there is data from vendors shoing otherwise, but for me, I would just wait until some really cool stuff comes out cause it will.

I like JBAS cause I had them...lol but no doubt, I would go kooks if I had to get them again. The Spec clutch is lighter but burcham broke enough of them to make the switch to SYN-R-G and he has run in the 8's on it and throws over 1000 hp at them. Yeah, Spec is good too but based on what justin has done, I'd have to give the nod more to the SYN-R-G.

Thanks for the input bro!

fordfanboy

No doubt. I know Josh and Kevin and they are two if the best vendors in the game IMO.

Black GT

Why is a rear-sway bar mod so important and what does it gain you (besides anti-sway)?

fordfanboy

Next time you can look under your car check out the stocker pathetic piece that is there. I used to get so mad at Roush cause they sell this ridiculous suspension package yet leave one of the most important features flimsy and stock - all they did was paint the stocker blue as part of their 'package'. The rear sway bar plays an important role in keeping you hooked and straight when you launch under any kind of load. If you ain't going straight and fast, then you ain't going fast...lol

Even the steeda which I consider inferior prodcut wise to BMR and others is much heavier duty than stock. Think about the load going on the rear when you take off and the strength required for the natural reaction of the car to go sideways. I still think CA's are very important, but Al is right, upgrading the rear swaybar should come first. A good attack on suspension components is to buy in sets IMO. For example, do the Panhard bar, CA's, and rear sway in one shot. Same goes for if you are going to be doing gears, etc.

Whenever you are going to be in a particular spot of the car, try to knock out as many mods in that area as you can.

When you punch it on the freeway or from a roll on the street and think you are fast as sin, the reality check comes when you leave from a dig. The first 100' is always the hardest to put to the ground and will always be as you increase your mods at any level.

the term 'anti-sway' I use loosely - 'sway' is more detrimental to being fast than you think.

CrazyAl

+1

That's a big part of it. But the other factor is of more interest to the corner carvers. Stock, these cars have an understeer problem. If you stiffen the rear sway bar but leave the front alone, you dial out the understeer making the handling neutral. This is a big advantage in cornering.

sw07gt

Would a suspension kit like this be worth it or should I go with BMR? http://www.steeda.com/products/05-06...on_stage-3.php