Anyone else going non F/I?
05-11-2007, 10:49 PM
#22
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: California
Posts: 1,471
RE: Anyone else going non F/I?
ORIGINAL: RUFDRAFT
<<SNIPPED>>[/b]
Stage III Comp cams/springs * SCT dyno-tune by Fastlane Motorsports/Benson NC (Caleb is the Tuner!) * Ford racing: headers & 4:10 gears * Eibach Sportline Springs * Hawk ceramic brakes * Steeda pulleys and adjustable UCA * Kazera 18’s – 8.5 f / 9.5 r * BFG KDW’s – 245’s and 285’s * BBK Throttle body * C&L CAI * Hurst short throw shifter * Bassani SS Race exhaust.
Engine/Drivetrain work by George “Super Tech” Hopkins – Pecheles Ford - Washington[/b]
DAILY DRIVER!
<<SNIPPED>>[/b]
Stage III Comp cams/springs * SCT dyno-tune by Fastlane Motorsports/Benson NC (Caleb is the Tuner!) * Ford racing: headers & 4:10 gears * Eibach Sportline Springs * Hawk ceramic brakes * Steeda pulleys and adjustable UCA * Kazera 18’s – 8.5 f / 9.5 r * BFG KDW’s – 245’s and 285’s * BBK Throttle body * C&L CAI * Hurst short throw shifter * Bassani SS Race exhaust.
Engine/Drivetrain work by George “Super Tech” Hopkins – Pecheles Ford - Washington[/b]
DAILY DRIVER!
Rufdraft,
You are probably leaving 15-20RWHP on the table by not installing a Meziere electric water pump, upgraded C&L Racer intake tube and a set of CMCV delete plates. Get going now!
Cheers!
05-11-2007, 11:03 PM
#23
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location:
Posts: 124
RE: Anyone else going non F/I?
I was thinking of going N/A, but I have lots of time to think about it because either way cost more money than I can devote to my stang right now. Couldn't an N/A person change out the cams, heads, rods, and all that jazz, and then have a strong motor to say throw a supercharger or turbo on there? I am still learning here, but wouldn't such mods increase the stability of your motor to go past the supposed 450rwhp that everyone claims is the safe limit?
05-12-2007, 04:30 AM
#26
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: California
Posts: 1,471
RE: Anyone else going non F/I?
ORIGINAL: androdz
That combo wont pass 350rwhp and stay away from the throttle body just do a search on it on the forums and you will see what I mean. Hell while you are at it read this post about the cams https://mustangforums.com/m_3162444/...1/key_/tm.htm. Sure the person that is selling you the cams says they got 40rwhp from them, but the person that put them got 21hp and lost 9tq. HMMM. Also remember I am pretty sure that the 40rwhp they talk about is running a heated engine to get the baselines #'s and then installing, putting a much more aggressive tune letting the car cool down completely and then run it. You can gain 15rwhp easily on a dyno from letting a car cooling down.
Andrew
ORIGINAL: F1Fan
Hi Capt.
I decided a long time ago that I prefer the subtle power response of a N/A motor over a blower motor largely because I'm a canyon runner and road course driver. I've driven plenty of local Mustang car club guys' S197GT's with superchargers and spray and sure they are a little quickerin a straight line.I think you can easily build a N/A car with reasonable power and superior handling and gripandhave these guys struggling to keep up with you. It is a little known fact the you can save MUCH more time per lapin abetter handlingcar with more grip than you canby just addingmore horsepower even massive horsepower.
The S197GT 3-valve motor is easily capable of 400+ bhp using only bolt-on parts and some tuning. This is just enough for a well setup street car to beat the pants off of most of the cars on the road even here in SoCal where Porsches and Ferraris are seen as common daily drivers. The fastest way to a great S197GT is to give your car balanced handling and reasonable power. The stock chassis is great for a cheap car ($25K is a cheap car these days), and 300bhp is a fairly respectable power number considering it's not supercharged and it's a cheap car. Go to the handling threads and see what it takes to make your car really stick like glue.
In the mean time here is the recipe for a 400+bhp S197GT 3-valve motor.
C&L Racer or Steeda with High Velocity Intake tube
Predator Diabloor SCT X2 handheld tuner
BBK 62mm throttle body
FRPP CMCV delete plates
Good long tube headers of your choice, don't buy old fashioned flanged headers, you'll need the extra ground clearance!
Good X-pipe with high-flow cats
Good full size rear mufflers unless TOO LOUD is just right for you
Meziere electric water pump
Comp Cams stage 3 cams
Comp Cams steel retainers and matching locks
Get going now!
Cheers/Chip
Hi Capt.
I decided a long time ago that I prefer the subtle power response of a N/A motor over a blower motor largely because I'm a canyon runner and road course driver. I've driven plenty of local Mustang car club guys' S197GT's with superchargers and spray and sure they are a little quickerin a straight line.I think you can easily build a N/A car with reasonable power and superior handling and gripandhave these guys struggling to keep up with you. It is a little known fact the you can save MUCH more time per lapin abetter handlingcar with more grip than you canby just addingmore horsepower even massive horsepower.
The S197GT 3-valve motor is easily capable of 400+ bhp using only bolt-on parts and some tuning. This is just enough for a well setup street car to beat the pants off of most of the cars on the road even here in SoCal where Porsches and Ferraris are seen as common daily drivers. The fastest way to a great S197GT is to give your car balanced handling and reasonable power. The stock chassis is great for a cheap car ($25K is a cheap car these days), and 300bhp is a fairly respectable power number considering it's not supercharged and it's a cheap car. Go to the handling threads and see what it takes to make your car really stick like glue.
In the mean time here is the recipe for a 400+bhp S197GT 3-valve motor.
C&L Racer or Steeda with High Velocity Intake tube
Predator Diabloor SCT X2 handheld tuner
BBK 62mm throttle body
FRPP CMCV delete plates
Good long tube headers of your choice, don't buy old fashioned flanged headers, you'll need the extra ground clearance!
Good X-pipe with high-flow cats
Good full size rear mufflers unless TOO LOUD is just right for you
Meziere electric water pump
Comp Cams stage 3 cams
Comp Cams steel retainers and matching locks
Get going now!
Cheers/Chip
Andrew
Exactly what I said, 350RWHP SAE is 400+bhp. This is as good as it gets from just about anyN/A street engine. Sure you can get more power per liter but things start to get less than civilized and also start to get more expensive.I can assure you Brenspeed knows how to do accurate dyno testing and warmed up the car after installing the C&L Racer CAI and BBK 62mm throttle body to make the pulls. Brenspeed is a very conservative tuning shop and nobody has said anything factually negative about them AFIK. Brenspeed has been very good about giving advice and suppling parts on time.
Cheers!
BTW, here is my current list of engine bolt -ons.
SteedaCAI w/90mm MAF housing and Steeda high-velocity intake tube upgrade
DiabloPredator Tuner, #ST7149 Steeda code basew/firmware 05-8r26
BBK 62mm throttle body
FRPP CMCV delete plates
JBA short tubeheaders Ti ceramic coating
MagnaFlow Tru-X Pipe w/high-flow OBDII compliant cats
FRPP M-5230-GTA rear mufflers
Merziere electric water pump
These pulls are on my own car and performed on an in ground DynoJet chassis dyno.
316rwhp and 330ft/lb, SAE corrected for air temp and barametric pressure, coolant temp 197F
ECU reset, cleared and flashedwithstock canned Steeda 91 octane CMCV delete tune from 05-8r26 firmware, not a custom tune
320rwhp and 329ft/lb. SAE corrected for air temp and barametric pressure, coolant temp 203F
ECU reset, cleared and flashed with custom 91 octane dyno tune, Steedahigh-velocity 90mm CAI, CMCV delete
This tune looks like not much happened but there was a 12rwhp and 16ft/lb bump in the midrange due an adjustment made to the MAF transfer tables and adding some fuel and pulling some timing
Cheers!
05-12-2007, 08:49 AM
#27
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location:
Posts: 196
RE: Anyone else going non F/I?
ORIGINAL: baha
Carmanwelder... you got some impressive numbers there on 91, have tried it on 93?
BTW, nice bumper, where did you get it?
Carmanwelder... you got some impressive numbers there on 91, have tried it on 93?
BTW, nice bumper, where did you get it?
It's a Roush facia from Roush. Had the Ford dealer do the paint and install.
05-12-2007, 09:28 AM
#28
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Clarksville TN
Posts: 6,828
RE: Anyone else going non F/I?
I plan on staying N/A, unless for some reason I wanta S/C just for the hell of it. With all these mods:
long tube headers
midpipe
catback/axleback exhaust
intake/tune
4.10's
delete plates
stage 3 cams
valve springs
stage 2/3 heads
UDP's
With all this and a good tune, I believe 375rwhp is obtainable and would be hella fun to drive, so this is my plan.
long tube headers
midpipe
catback/axleback exhaust
intake/tune
4.10's
delete plates
stage 3 cams
valve springs
stage 2/3 heads
UDP's
With all this and a good tune, I believe 375rwhp is obtainable and would be hella fun to drive, so this is my plan.
05-12-2007, 01:42 PM
#29
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Greater Philadelphia area
Posts: 408
RE: Anyone else going non F/I?
The truly great thing about these cars is that you can take them in whatever direction you want. NA, FI, totally modded, stock, pimped, big HP, all show, etc. andall reasonable $. Can't say that about a lot of rides. Go Ford! and keep 'em comin'. In 20 years we will still be talking about them and playing with them.
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