jwgroovin

I'm with Pachary. I've had my car for 2-1/2 years, and driven the car pretty hard at the dragstrip (note I don't have a S/C, turbo or nitrous) starting in year 2. My clutch JUST started going about a month ago. I've been doing launches from 5000 rpm, and started power shifting this year to improve times. The clutch has held up very well, surprisingly, but after a recenttrack rental day and 16 hard runs down the quarter mile, the clutch started burning a bit and slipping. I've got my spec II+ and steel flywheel going in this week. And an aluminum driveshaft, as it's a good time with everything else coming off.

With the money you have for the clutch and flywheel, I'd invest in BMR lower control arms and an adjustable upper, and perhaps an adjustable panhard bar. It will help in both street and drag launches. Or, buy some lower springs and beefier swaybars if you're a corner carver. When I lowered my car with Steeda springs, the lower center of gravity got rid of some of that "squirrellyness" when I went nutty around the twisty roads.

Orrrrr, maybe buy a couple of 18x10 wheels for the back, and save up for some fat rubber for the back.

Unless you're a dedicated track guy, I don't think a clutch is a good investment TODAY. Just my two cents...

John

slySTANGguy

Thanks groovin, what kind of work do you have done to your car?

jwgroovin

I have a mixture of street/appearence and track mods, since I enjoy both shows and cruises, and hitting the dragstrip. The link under my signature pic has the full story, if you're interested, but here's the summary:

Dynoed to 323hp, 310trq at the wheels
1969 Boss 302 paint theme (hood, sides, spoilers, trunk lid)
New spoiler from Spoiler Depot
CDC chin spoiler
Custom car cover from California Mustang
Hood pins
Redline Tuning hood struts
Mac axleback muffler
Bassani catted x-pipe
BBK shorty headers
C&L cold air intake with custom tune SCT XCAL2, 93 octane
Comp Stage III cams
FRPP 4.10 gears
Steeda springs
18" AFS Mach 1 wheels (18 x 9")
Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires 275/40-18 at all 4 corners
BMR strut tower brace
Hurst shifter
Raptor shift light
S&S A-pillar dual gauge pod
Autometer air/fuel ratio gauge
Autometer water temperature gauge
Running pony floor mats
Coming soon: Spec II+ clutch/steel flywheel; Spydershaft driveshaft, BMR front driveshaft loop, Zex nitrous.

slySTANGguy

If your stock clutch was good enough for all that, mine should be good enough for me. Here is another question about a cluch, i know the clutch gets alot of wear and tear when the clutch is in between fully engaged and fully disengaged. But is it really bad on the clutch to drop it, because it doesnt have much time to burn it up then does it, in other words during a drop your not riding the clutch at all. Also when your foot is off the clutch and your flooring it, that doesnt bother the clutch much either does it?

hammeron

i know you probably already have a good
grasp of how the clutch works, but for some
of us, a good review is sometimes in order


i'll post this link for those peeps

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm

Apoptosis

Yea... Arwing decided it would be a good idea to tap the clutch during mid burnout...

@Groovin: Have you posted sound clips of your Mac/Bassani on Youtube?

jwgroovin

There are some older clips on YouTube. Search on 'jwgroovin'.

Here's a new clip where I tried to catch the mild cam lope:

http://media.putfile.com/Comp-Stage-3-cams

Turn up the bass on your PC to really get a sense of the sound.

Apoptosis

Yea, your Stang is one of the reasons I can't decide which exhaust I want on my car...

ModernMuscle

after seeing your dyno of 323 rwhp with stage 3 comps...i gotta rule those out.
crower or crane stage 3 is all i can see, for the 45rwhp gains...

Did it only give you that little of power? hell, i think ive got aroud the 330 mark without cams, but i could be wrong.

jwgroovin

If you go back and look at my original thread on the cam numbersissue, the "only" 23hp gain was a bit of a let down at first. But, I've yet to see a published before and after from a real owner showing results from JUST the cams, like I did. All the one's I've seen included other items, usually some engine bolt-on or two, or headers. I'm not calling anyone a liar or exaggerating a bit, but I like to see proof now and then. Magazines have published 25-30hp figures, but my guess it's optimum conditions AND the resulting tune is maximum HP and less streetability.

It's kind of figuring out what you really want. With today's aftermarket mods, we're seeing anywhere from 300-320 rwhp (plus or minus Mustangs on either end of the curve). Ported heads and stage III cams are good foranother 30-40 (depends on brand, machine shop skill, etc) but the cost per horsepower is very high, so we're getting topped out around, oh, let's just say 350 hp at the wheels for nearly $4k-5k worth of parts, plus labor. After that, you need to add boost in a S/C or turbo, or spray some juice.

I could probably add a throttle body, delete plates, an under drive pulley, maybe swap my shorties for longtubes (but MM&FF showed a whopping 1hp gain doing that!!!), for several hundred bucks and handful of horsepower, or spend the same on a Zex wet kit and get 75-100hp easy.

Me, I'm just trying to get a solid 12s car on the cams and bolt-ons--I'm nearly there and should be with a few more runs and my new beefier clutch. Then it's nitrous time, and shooting for 11s. By then I should have bucks saved up for the Whipple...

John