Saleen supercharger or Kenne Bell??
07-16-2007, 08:59 PM
#81
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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RE: Saleen supercharger or Kenne Bell??
ORIGINAL: sactown
mills281eyou took the words right out of my mouth. A SC from any mfg will not get you into the 11's, but it is a good start. Pulleies, exhaust, gears... will most likely all be needed to get there, plus drag radials. I have been out to the track I think 8 times now, and best time is 13.75 @102.5 and my car is completely stock. I know several guy that have dump thousands into their cars, (pro-charger, CAI, Gears, drag radials), the list can go on and on with only one guy into the high 12's. I guess what I am trying to say is, until you have been out to the track with your car stock to see what you can get it to do any HP you throw at it may just be a waste, because if you can't get the power to the ground it does not matter how much power you have. But now back to the SC, the reasoning in mind at this point is that the Saleen is more street friendly, if I had a second car and did not drive the car 50 miles a day I would probably lean towards the KB
mills281eyou took the words right out of my mouth. A SC from any mfg will not get you into the 11's, but it is a good start. Pulleies, exhaust, gears... will most likely all be needed to get there, plus drag radials. I have been out to the track I think 8 times now, and best time is 13.75 @102.5 and my car is completely stock. I know several guy that have dump thousands into their cars, (pro-charger, CAI, Gears, drag radials), the list can go on and on with only one guy into the high 12's. I guess what I am trying to say is, until you have been out to the track with your car stock to see what you can get it to do any HP you throw at it may just be a waste, because if you can't get the power to the ground it does not matter how much power you have. But now back to the SC, the reasoning in mind at this point is that the Saleen is more street friendly, if I had a second car and did not drive the car 50 miles a day I would probably lean towards the KB
07-16-2007, 09:17 PM
#82
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 1,474
RE: Saleen supercharger or Kenne Bell??
oh believe me, i know all about trying to put the power to the ground. (see sig for boosted FWD's 
)
i guess my main question is already been answered via Brenspeed's Saleen pkg. Gona take a look at Fastlane's setup this friday.
Thanks for everyone's help!
)i guess my main question is already been answered via Brenspeed's Saleen pkg. Gona take a look at Fastlane's setup this friday.
Thanks for everyone's help!
07-16-2007, 09:28 PM
#83
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RE: Saleen supercharger or Kenne Bell??
ORIGINAL: sactown
When did you get your SC?? I just called underground mustang and they quoted me $4900.
When did you get your SC?? I just called underground mustang and they quoted me $4900.
07-16-2007, 09:32 PM
#84
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RE: Saleen supercharger or Kenne Bell??
ORIGINAL: mills281e
You can get them from Casey at HaneyMotorsport for cheaper than that for just the Series VI. You can find them on ebay as well ($4600).
When did you get your SC?? I just called underground mustang and they quoted me $4900.
07-17-2007, 12:25 PM
#86
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Join Date: Aug 2006
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RE: Saleen supercharger or Kenne Bell??
ORIGINAL: jrm1900
I think fordfanboy means that peaking 450 rwhp does not guarantee you’ll run 11’s, there are many other variables in the equation, for example the HP and Torque curves; two different engines with the same peak hp will yield different ¼ mile times depending on how they deliver the power, every FI technology / kit produces different power curves.
Then you need to transfer that power to the ground, by means of proper gears, shifter, clutch, suspension, tires and of course driver skills, last but not least is the builder experience, it is not just a matter of throwing in upgrades, all the mods must work well together and it is here where track times and hurting pockets pay off, keep in mind this is not cheap nor happens overnight, and this is the reason some people make it and most other don’t.
Magazines and manufacturers often publish the best result achieved after many ¼ mile runs, these results are often corrected for optimal weather conditions like altitude temperature etc.
I think fordfanboy means that peaking 450 rwhp does not guarantee you’ll run 11’s, there are many other variables in the equation, for example the HP and Torque curves; two different engines with the same peak hp will yield different ¼ mile times depending on how they deliver the power, every FI technology / kit produces different power curves.
Then you need to transfer that power to the ground, by means of proper gears, shifter, clutch, suspension, tires and of course driver skills, last but not least is the builder experience, it is not just a matter of throwing in upgrades, all the mods must work well together and it is here where track times and hurting pockets pay off, keep in mind this is not cheap nor happens overnight, and this is the reason some people make it and most other don’t.
Magazines and manufacturers often publish the best result achieved after many ¼ mile runs, these results are often corrected for optimal weather conditions like altitude temperature etc.
The builder experience comment hits the nail on the head. When you are doing reasearch and you hear this part gives you so and so HP and this part gives you so and so HP, a lot of guys just assume that if they get both parts, they can add the two numbers together that's how much HP there going to gain...NOT TRUE. Beleive it or not, certain mods can 'cancel each other out' so to speak and actually HURT your performance when used together. Most of the guys I know with big dyno sheets don't actually run that fast. Most of the fastest DD S197's I know of are running under 550 rwhp.... go figure
...lol (I'm talking DD True Street cars)One of the best measures to just how quick you are is to concentrate on your 60' and 330'. If you want to lay down low et's then those are the numbers you need to get low. Once you have accomplished that, the low et's follow. If you are not 60' in the low 1.6's (AT LEAST) you are not going to see a low 11 no matter what kind of HP you have. Just take a look at one of those 1200 hp supras running low 12's as an example. I always concentrate on my 60' and 330' and everytime I get those down even a 10th, my ET's are are reduced drastically. I lose up to a 1/2 second off my ET for every 10th I drop off my 60'. There is a lot more to just buying parts also. When you are setting up springs, CA's, and other chasis and suspension mods, differences as small as 1/8" can make the difference between too much sqaut and or too much antisqaut or the difference between good and bad weight transfer. No BS, just an 1/8" difference in the install can be the difference of a 1/2 second on an ET.
We talk about serious tuners for our tuning needs, but I beleive that serious installers who know how a car is supposed to work is also a must have when doing your suspension. There is a big difference between installing a set of lower CA's and installing a set of lower CA's that perfectly distrubute the sqaut to get the best launch. The only difference between the two is how they are installed. The right rubber, proper weight distribution, perfect sqaut, pinion angles, anti roll and anti sqaut bars/brackets, and overall chasis stiffening are the keys to netting a low ET IMO.
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