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Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Hawk Pads

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Old 12-03-2007, 12:08 AM
  #41  
Gonzo71
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Default RE: Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Hawk Pads

Thanks F1fan, I'll take a look at the items you mentioned.
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Old 12-03-2007, 03:33 AM
  #42  
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Default RE: Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Hawk Pads

ORIGINAL: F1Fan

ORIGINAL: androdz

ORIGINAL: F1Fan

ORIGINAL: androdz
Yes but since there is a larger surface on a big brake system wouldn't the pads generate less heat because they are more efficient in locking up the wheel since they would have to clamp less and generate less heat that in turn would be transfered to the fluid?

Andrew
Hi Andrew,

Think of it this way, work is work.To slow the car from say 100MPH to50MPH in some fixed time all you are doing is converting thecar's kinetic energy into heat through the brake system. How large, how many pads orhowlarge the rotors used to convert that energyare makes no difference in the total workyou need to perform to slow the car from whatever speeds you are talking about. So the thing you need to think about is the amount of heat you are creating and that is going to be more or less the same no matter how many, how large or how thick your pads and rotors are.

HTH!
So you are saying that a larger rotor will not work less? I am pretty sure since the caliper would be able to be place farther away from the center of the wheel it will need less force to clamp down and slow the car. Very simple way to try this is to try to loosen a 150lb nut with a 4 inch rachet then try it with a rachet with a 3 feet extension. At the end they both will require 150lb to loosen it but I am damn sure the 3 feet rachet will require a lot less force to loosen the bolt. So in turn on a car the pad would have to make less force thus need less friction which in turn would generate less heat.

Andrew
Hi Andrew,

Try this, google conservation of energy. It does not matter whether the rotors arelarge or small the carstill has the same mass and and has the same energy. Sowhen we step on the brakes to convert some of the moving car'skinetic energyinto heat the amount ofheat will be the same regardless of the pad or rotor size.

Using your exampe you have already told me thatit take the sameamount of work to loosen that 150ft/lb nut no matter what length of wrench you used. The brakes are the same problem andno matter how long or short the wrenchhandle used is the total work needed to loosen thatnut is the same. Get it? Ifnot go back and google the conservation of energy law and look for a few more sites. One of them may be able to help you understand this subject better than me.

HTH!

Erm you are forgetting about an important part yes the total energy required to stop it is smaller but the energy the brake pad will be required to put on the rotor itself will be less since it will be able to apply more braking torque. Hence the wrench example. Yes the pressure on the nut required to remove it will be 150lbs but for example with a 6 inch wrench you might have to push with 125 pounds on ur hands since the wrench itself is increasing the power being delivered. With a 3 feet long wrench your arm would probably need around 40 pounds to loosen that nut. Your applying 150 lbs to the nut itself but to the wrench with your hand you are applying much less. Same principle would be applied with a bigger brake rotor. If not then why are they longer wrenches if with a 4 inch one you could apply the same force?? Somewhat like a lever which is used multiply the mechanical force that can be applied to another object. Remember when you are talking about results in the brake department you usually talk about braking torque and the formula that I found is this: Braking torque in pounds-feet on a single wheel is the effective disc radius in inches times clamping force times the coefficient of friction of the pad against the disc all divided by 12. Thus the Rotor Diameter or effective radius of the rotor: Larger diameter rotors have longer torque arms and can generate more brake power with the same amount of clamp force than a smaller diameter rotor.

Andrew
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Old 12-03-2007, 03:33 AM
  #43  
exx1976
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Default RE: Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Hawk Pads

ORIGINAL: F1Fan

An SLA suspension has much more ideal geometry and can be adjusted for ideal handling. Go to the GriggsRacing webpage for the GR40Mustang suspension kits. They are costly but they are not too expensive is you are serious about handling.
I agree about the SLA deal, but holy crap!!! They START at $6600 from Griggs! Surely there's got to be a less expensive alternative.. Kind of like the Watts link thread.. Lakewood and Fays2 both make decent watts links, and they do the job, but they aren't as good (read: EXPENSIVE) as the Griggs..
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Old 12-03-2007, 03:49 PM
  #44  
ChiDiddy
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Default RE: Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Hawk Pads

ORIGINAL: androdz
Erm as far as I know most race teams use the castrol GT Lima brake fluid which in turn is a non synthethic brake fluid. Synthetic brake fluids loose their efficiency once they are brought up to a boil.
think about it...."race teams", synthetic or not, they change their fluids far more often than a street car would. It is very HARD to bring synthetic brake fluid to a boil. u'll boil stock brake fluid (at wet boiling point) compared to a synthetic.

Heck, lots of racers use stock Ford Heavy Duty Dot3 b/c its very high dry boiling point, but it absorbs moisture very fast and has very low wet boiling point compared to your synthetics. They dont care bc they change it quite often. For street purposes, you're looking at wet boiling points.
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Old 12-03-2007, 04:12 PM
  #45  
07BOSSGT_S197
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Default RE: Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Hawk Pads

I found with a set of powerslot 13"rotors(F & R) withHawk ceramic pads that the stopping power is a huge difference from stock. I think that once I break the 500HP barrier I'll go to a "big" brake set up w/steel braided lines.
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Old 12-03-2007, 11:17 PM
  #46  
androdz
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Default RE: Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Hawk Pads

ORIGINAL: 07BOSSGT_S197

I found with a set of powerslot 13"rotors(F & R) withHawk ceramic pads that the stopping power is a huge difference from stock. I think that once I break the 500HP barrier I'll go to a "big" brake set up w/steel braided lines.
I am with you, the statement that a big brake kit wont stop any better or is not any more efficient at breaking is absurd in my opinion. The best example is the wrench like I said which is exactly the same thing.

Andrew
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Old 12-04-2007, 06:42 PM
  #47  
ChiDiddy
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Default RE: Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Hawk Pads

ORIGINAL: 07BOSSGT_S197

I found with a set of powerslot 13"rotors(F & R) withHawk ceramic pads that the stopping power is a huge difference from stock. I think that once I break the 500HP barrier I'll go to a "big" brake set up w/steel braided lines.
I am with you, the statement that a big brake kit wont stop any better or is not any more efficient at breaking is absurd in my opinion. The best example is the wrench like I said which is exactly the same thing.

Andrew
it got better b/c of his pads, not the rotors.

after this whole thread, u still find it absurd? even with all the technical data and links u can find on the net....
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Old 12-04-2007, 08:26 PM
  #48  
androdz
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Default RE: Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Hawk Pads

A bigger rotor will give you better braking torque which is what really helps. Just think about it

Andrew
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Old 12-06-2007, 01:23 AM
  #49  
zero2sixd
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Default RE: Slotted and Drilled Rotors with Hawk Pads

Erm you are forgetting about an important part yes the total energy required to stop it is smaller but the energy the brake pad will be required to put on the rotor itself will be less since it will be able to apply more braking torque. Hence the wrench example. Yes the pressure on the nut required to remove it will be 150lbs but for example with a 6 inch wrench you might have to push with 125 pounds on ur hands since the wrench itself is increasing the power being delivered. With a 3 feet long wrench your arm would probably need around 40 pounds to loosen that nut. Your applying 150 lbs to the nut itself but to the wrench with your hand you are applying much less. Same principle would be applied with a bigger brake rotor. If not then why are they longer wrenches if with a 4 inch one you could apply the same force?? Somewhat like a lever which is used multiply the mechanical force that can be applied to another object. Remember when you are talking about results in the brake department you usually talk about braking torque and the formula that I found is this: Braking torque in pounds-feet on a single wheel is the effective disc radius in inches times clamping force times the coefficient of friction of the pad against the disc all divided by 12. Thus the Rotor Diameter or effective radius of the rotor: Larger diameter rotors have longer torque arms and can generate more brake power with the same amount of clamp force than a smaller diameter rotor.
In this example, note that you would also need to apply your 40 lbs over a greater distance (due to your 3 ft. wrench), so ultimately you are doing the same amount of work. I do agree that a larger rotor could supply more braking force (all other things being equal). However, I think the point was that you can lock up the brakes and activate the ABS with the stock S197 brakes, so why would you need bigger brakes? Heat dissipation. If you accept the fact that braking is simply converting kinetic energy into heat, the real question is: are your current brakes doing an acceptable job of heat dissipation. The answer to this obviously depends on how you use the brakes. I don't think anybody is arguing the point that larger rotors have better heat dissipation due to their increased mass. The question is: do you need it?

At least one person here has suggested that the stock rotors and calipers (upgraded pads and fluid) with the addition of brake ducts would outperform a big brake kit without ducting. This makes sense to me, as properly designed ducting ought to greatly enhance the flow of air radially through the rotor, and therefore quickly dissipate heat. I should think the only place where you would need this would be on a road course though.

All that said, I do like the curb appeal of large rotors with mult-piston fixed calipers that look like they could stop a steam train.
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