modaddict

That is a great question! Perhaps the BBR stage 2 with a wider seperation angle??

my77stang

im still getting my head around the way they have these numbers. its greek to me to see that the intakes have higher lift, while the ex have a lower lift BUT a longer duration. i would have thought only having 1 ex valve would mean they would need to favor the ex side even more (like with the poor flowing ex ports on the pushrod V8 ford motors).

i'd expect to see a 50-75 HP increase in power with a radical setup using these cams, if you get 100 i will be VERY impressed.

modaddict

Yea - you can see I went back and edited my post and it was right where you are at...lol

After I thought about it, I think 100 was a little too 'dreamy'...lol[8D] However, I stand by what I said that I'm not really interested in the dyno gains. On my 331ci, I think the mid range power and torque gains are going to make a BIG difference in my ET (and that's what's worth money to me...)

MexGT

This is getting more interesting, the build-up with the new specs cams.

TJ

ModaddictI am always willing to learn(change my way of thinking)so I want to bounce some stuff off you on these cam specs and cams for this 3v 4.6. But let me ask you some questions I really don’t know you car that good, now I think I read your running a 2800 or 3300 stall?

Also what gear and more important imo what rpm is your motor going to be shifting at?

Taking about the lsa I am under the impression duration pretty much dictates the lsa and vice versa do you know (100 percent) if this is correct?

Example so if we are lookig at cam specs of lift492/492 and durration 220/236 @.50 we are looking at a lsa of115.5 then if the above is correct?

modaddict

I am 100% percent sure the lsa is NOT dictated by the duration. (obviously why you can change the lsa by up to 1 and a half degree on any camshaft) I explained what the wider and tighter angles do in my first post. Once you understand the effects the tightness of the lsa effects EVERYTHING, you understand it a lot better.

I am running a 2800 stall but I also have a full manual 4r70 with no lock-up and no kickdown. With the no lock-up 4r70, you get considerable slip and you have to account for it in the stall. (this is the reason I think a lot of guys with no lock-up 4r70's don't have the best stall)

Example - my stall is set for 2800 but it actually slips to 3800 so even though my stall is 'set' for 2800 - my 'actual' stall is 3800. (which I think is best for street/strip) If I was gong to have it on track duty, yeah - I'd have a higher stall.

My gear now is 3.73 but with the new build, I most definitely have to drop down. Either 3.55 or 3.31 - which - don't know yet until the traps tell me. I'll run whatever I 'have' to.

This is a Big Bore 331ci build. Big stroker motors do not like a lot of rpm. This new set-up I will actually be shifting at about 6000 rpm. However, this thing is going to make stupid power through that anyway.

TJ

Well then this pretty much kills what I was going to bounce off you.

Ok if the motor is shifting at 6K mute point on what I was thinking heretoo.

I guess I am going have to look into and research the LSA more as I thought the duration pretty much dictated the LSA.

modaddict

LOL - yeah that's EXACTLY what my thoughts (rpm) were. The 2 hours I spent talking to cam pros yesterday really taught me a lot. With 331ci big bore build, a 114 lsa would put me inthe 5200 rpm peak range and actually work against the blower. The 15.5 on the cams I ordered are the ideal IMO. If it was a 298, I would actually go for the 114 lsa.

The main point from all that I learned is that your exact specifications are CRUCIAL when getting the best cam for you. It's not a matter of "I heard stage 4 or BBr are good" which unfortuenatly is the way the majority of people have bought cams.

The cool thing is now we have a formula and options to look at your specific set-up and gat a camshaft that will give the most benefit possible for that set-up. IMO this means, that, YES, cams can be 'worth the money' and it's now a matter of what specifically is the best cam for you instead of just picking a brand.

my77stang

whats the stroke of this contraption when you get done? you may be able to rev higher than you think[8D]

modaddict

3.800 stroke with a .015 overbore on the big bore 4.6 block

SD made a good post on another forum to help someone understand better. It's good info that may be help some members...

For those of you who do not know the formula..........

Bore X Bore X Stroke X .7854 X 8 = cubic inch

Increase the bore or the stroke (or both) and you increase cubic inches. Pretty simple. The limiting factors are the block. There is only so much material you can remove by boring a stock block. Once that is done your option becomes resleeving the block or using a "big bore" block from FRPP.

With a stroker crank you will also get either shorter connecting rods or a piston with a pin located higher up in the piston. Sometimes both. The limit there becomes how far the connecting rod pulls the piston out of the bottom of the bore at the Bottom Dead Center position.

As stated by others, common stroker crank setups utilize the 3.700", 3.750" or the 3.800" strokes. All of these will put you right at 300" with a stock bore block. With the above formula you can see for yourself. The FRPP big bore block and the Darton Sleeve System will give you a 3.700" bore to work with. Utilizing one of these with a stock stroke crank you will again be in the 300" area.

Put the big bore and the stroker together and you end up in the 323" area. All of this applies to the 4.6 based engines. The 5.4 engine utilizes the same bore as the 4.6 but uses a 4.160" stroke, a much longer connecting rod and a taller deck height block.

Class dismissed. This information will be on the mid-term.