REBUILD TALK - Episode I
01-31-2008, 01:36 PM
#21
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,398
RE: REBUILD TALK - Episode I
A dilemna... say the price of a new rotating assembly, stroker, and installed is roughly 4500.
So say a new block with a stroker installed already is roughly 5500... I'm hoping this isn't the case, because why would anyone not spend the extra $1000 and get the new block... but it seems like that is the case. I could be wrong.
So say a new block with a stroker installed already is roughly 5500... I'm hoping this isn't the case, because why would anyone not spend the extra $1000 and get the new block... but it seems like that is the case. I could be wrong.
01-31-2008, 01:49 PM
#22
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Posts: 1,699
RE: REBUILD TALK - Episode I
The aluminum blocks cost about $1000 so that's your difference. Some want to save as much money as possible so figure rebuilding their own block is a good deal. To each their own but I hope they heed my warnings about building on your one and only block - what you think is saving money could cost you more in the end...
As far as rotating kits and complete shortblocks, here is where it gets tricky and I'l be covering this in episode II but it's a lot of information to cover so I'm waiting till I have time to make the thread.
The real secret that no one really explains to you guys is that not all parts are created equal. Many of the 'kits' have POS pistons in them. There is also a BIG DIFFERENCE in the type of pistons you should get if you are N/A or FI, or depending on the aount of boost you want to run and the compression ratio you choose. Honestly, I think many of the rotating assembly kits out there are junk and only a handful of companies offer a good selection of parts.
Quick example - Probe pistons are cheap and will do the job with a stock stroke N/A car but they absolutely SUCK for big boosted cars and any stroker kit because of their dish design and some other factors that make them prone for danger. (speaking specifically about the ones for our cars as they have some great ones for other applications...)
I really don't know exactly when I'll start the thread but I will eventually. Right now I have superbowl this weekend, the NHRA next weekend, so I'm a little pressed and I need to be able to do a lot of pricing research to be able to have a good rotating assembly thread for you guys but I'll get to it when I can.
CK
As far as rotating kits and complete shortblocks, here is where it gets tricky and I'l be covering this in episode II but it's a lot of information to cover so I'm waiting till I have time to make the thread.
The real secret that no one really explains to you guys is that not all parts are created equal. Many of the 'kits' have POS pistons in them. There is also a BIG DIFFERENCE in the type of pistons you should get if you are N/A or FI, or depending on the aount of boost you want to run and the compression ratio you choose. Honestly, I think many of the rotating assembly kits out there are junk and only a handful of companies offer a good selection of parts.
Quick example - Probe pistons are cheap and will do the job with a stock stroke N/A car but they absolutely SUCK for big boosted cars and any stroker kit because of their dish design and some other factors that make them prone for danger. (speaking specifically about the ones for our cars as they have some great ones for other applications...
)I really don't know exactly when I'll start the thread but I will eventually. Right now I have superbowl this weekend, the NHRA next weekend, so I'm a little pressed and I need to be able to do a lot of pricing research to be able to have a good rotating assembly thread for you guys but I'll get to it when I can.
CK
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