moosestang

It has to be a computer or electrical problem assuming fuel/air and spark are present. Unfortunately with no codes this makes it hard to diagnose. So what sensors could cause the car not to start, but don't throw a code? MAF, O2? clutch switch?

hammeron

i'm not sure but what about things like
along with the items you mentioned:

crankshaft position sensor
throttle position sensor
throttle control motor
fuel rail pressure sensor
camshaft position sensor

what if there is a serious vacuum leak..

moosestang

That's easy enough to test. Create a serious vacuum leak on your car and let us know if it starts. I would think it would still start and then die or just idle like pooh.

tdbrown75

These are all great and highly technical suggestions, but have you pushed the fuel reset button thingy yet?

Tim

GidyupGo

post #2.

A_J

Have you verified that the fuel injectors are getting voltage?

I ask because I fixed a Volvo a couple of weeks ago for a similar thing - owner was going nuts - had spark, had fuel pressure, but no voltage going to the injectors so the fuel never actually made it into the cylinders. Turned out the be a relay on the main power to the injector harness..

hammeron

good point A_J, fuse 41.....

and the PCM controls the ground side, of
the injector circuits

rjb

What could have got shaken loose when it was transported. The most logical was the fuel reset ( I know already tested), I would say the next thing to check is the PCM connectors then fuses. I know this is just a recap but sometimes it helps. The big problem is figuring what is misssing air, spark or fuel. If everything is there then you have to see if the spark or fuel is appearing at the wrong time.
On a side note: are you using a factory key? The reason I ask is my buddy bought a car that had 2 keys one factory and one repro (unchipped). The un-chipped one gave us the symptoms you are having..

Bob

abrush

Yes I am using the factory key. Also, regarding the clutch sensor the car should not turn over at all if it is bad. I know that there is not a vacuum leak because the day that the car did start it idled perfect. If there was a leak it would have idled rough. The mechanic tested the computer and said it tested good. I don't know if he cleaned the contacts on the plugs.

FrostByte

Its your fuel cut off switch. Mine tripped just from having it on a flatbed. Tuner called & said car wouldnt start after I dropped it off. I had to drive for an hour to open the trunk & push the dam little red button. didnt feel like it moved but car started up right after that.