GT Bob

This is the exact same reason I am going for a whipple. Centri's are nice, but you have to rev the crap outta them to get power. I lined up against a buddy with a vortech (and otherwise 100% stock) and until he got to 4K rpm's in second gear, I was about a 1/2 car on him. The story completely changed at 4K, but it was still embaressing for him to be holeshotted so badly by someone with less than 1K in go fast mods.

MustangGT0405

Hmmm, I would go this, $5275 for the blower, $800 install (In orlando Real Street Performance) $6075 OTD. Still leave enough for control arms and a VMP Dyno Tune. Thats my vote.

airforceus

+1

pitbull813

I think I'm really leaning towards going forged with a centrifugal. It almost seems to me like not doing that first is like putting the horse before the cart. Forged internals would give me a much stronger base to work from. What is the point in having a blower that can produce insane amounts of boost and power but a motor that can only withstand the bare minimum psi?

desslok40

I like your idea of building up the engine/chassis/suspension before going insane with power, its the safe route.
I would not get the centri, twin screw is definitely the way to go,get stroked andforged, replace bearings, etc....
Just adding a high boost SC to a totally stock GT is like playing with fire, I like the idea of building up the car/engine
components before adding FI. $5000 would get you every bolt-on imagineable (gears/driveshaft/suspension/exhaust/
drag radials/CAI/brakes/etc....) forged internals and stroked, still have $2000 left to start to save up for SC, then
when ready take the plunge and get a KB 2.8 intercooled, call itdone

IMHO

Mishri

I was going to post a new thread but this one looks like its following what i want to do with my car.. (except ill likely go with a brenspeed stage 2 saleen)

my question is, which mods should i get and any particular order? and should i really do LT headers? is the gain worth the expense? (looking at kooks, would likely cost 1.3k+install) my current plan is lookinga lot like the recommended N/A mod list from modaddict:

1. CAI/Tune
2. Gears
3. TC for auto / clutch/flywheel for manual
4. Good Rubber
5. Aluminum driveshaft
6. Good upper and lower control arms
7. Panhard bar
8. Springs
9. Good Shifter for manual or skip to 10 for auto
10. Tubular K member and a-arms

then 11. Saleen Stage 2.

let me know what you guys think of this plan (I also noticed that N/A does look more like a future f/I upgrade list, because U/D pullies aren't on there)

MustangGT0405

Yes that route defineately makes sense if you think you are going to have another $7 grand to drop soon, ie within a year to finish the car.

The reason I recommended getting the blower first is that you get to up the hp immediately to a "fun" level.And then when everything is built up you can up the boost and go nuts. That way for the time it takes to collect the stage 2 money you are driving a 450rwhp stang. And then with the rebuilt motor, trans, rear end, and suspension you can go nuts to 600 rwhp +.

Plus if you plan to run big boost you compression ratio will be like 8.5 so even if you get a big bore forged kit you will probably make equal or less power N/A than stock will horrible gas mileage. If it take you another year to get another 7 grand to get the blower and other parts you are driving a "compromised" performance stang.

Then if a tornado flattens your house or you have an unexpected medical bill, or knock someone up, you cash will be tapped and you will be stuck driving a supercharger ready stang with no supercharger.

That is just how my brain thinks though. The blower is a stand alone mod and can run well on a stock motor is you stay a little conservative (the horse). A motor built for big boost is useless without the blower on it (the cart). Dont put the cart before your horse.

But in the end you know better your circumstances good luck.

MustangGT0405

Here is my input if you are on a budget and want to do the blower last. My suggestion is to save and do the blower first. So if you do the blower first make that number one and move everything else down

Mishri

one reason i was going to wait on the s/c is getting a custom dyno tune from brenspeed w/all the supporting in there will give me maximum power.. but if i get the s/c then have to adjust my tune w/o being there then it wont be as good.. unless i go back again after i get them all.. but i also like the idea of having around 400rwhp in a year rather than 2..

zkiller

Actually that statement is not true. The stock rotating assembly is good for more than the minuimum boost. It will take 10-12 PSI without a problem if it has a safe tune.