wahooo

cant spell and at my age that is not going to change ,and yes i dont want to set up for blower i believe that the added stress for such a long time on the motor breaks it down ,just like some of you said the blower thing is a rice burner thing, ALL of them us them .(evos)and the motors are 70,000 throw aways ,if i wanted to spend 7,000 i would replace the motor ,get the power and run n/a,i ran nos back in late 70 and there were no rice burners back then and blowers were only on funnycars,buy american ,act american .use nos or run n/a,but what ever you do dont stup to the rice burners level and blow your car or you will be funny

zkiller

sorry but blowers and turbos have nothing to do with rice burners dude. Where do you come up with that?
The fastest cars in the NMRA and NMCA are all turbo or supercharged. You think NMRA racers are rice?
As far as damaging the engine, a shot of nitrous is far more dangerous to your motor than a well tuned supercharger or turbo. Nitrous bottle pressures can be all over the place. So if you think that choosing nitrous gives your car more longevity you are mistaken.
Oh and for 7000 you cant build a naturally aspirated engine that will be over 350-360 horsepower. Any forced induction 3-valve will have more power than the naturally aspirated 4.6 3-valve.
Turbos and supercharger dont even kick in at partial throttle. It is like they are not there until you floor it.

Not quite sure what the heck you are saying about Evos throw aways and 70,000 dollars but I have two Mustangs and one has N2O while the other is supercharged so I can speak from experience.

jahudso2

Nitrous isnt rice, but most people who call it "naws" just want it b/c they have it on their car in need for speed on xbox and think it refills itself by drafting off of other cars. My mistake, this guy was just trying to use abrieviations.

wahooo

that's what im talking about ,i don't need the bs comments only the facts ,yes in the day the nos was abit dangerous, and the only blowers out there were huge you could not fit it under any hood,the experiance i have with turbo/scis i have withturbo diesels and the turbos definitelyleave a toll on them, a n/a can run 15,000hrs,a small turbo will 7,000 hrs, and the new diesels that have more boost only are lasting 3500 hrs , i also have a s/c that adds power at low rpm and then the urbo kicks in at 1800 rpm ,this is marine ,but i associate a motor as a motor the more iron there is the better the longevity ,also i do believe the first production car that i ever heard of coming out of the factory with a turbo to the mas publicwas a star-ion (mitsubishi). the blower not working all the time is a new concept to me ,is it regulated by the throttle body or the foot pedal and when does it come on or is it adjustable ,also i just read that the nos is still dangerous is that the case or is it as bad as adding more hp and not having a properly built bottom end to handle it

zkiller

If you dont want BS comments then use N2O and not the brand name NOS to refer to nitrous oxide. In your past experience with turbo diesels, in a diesel compression ratios are usually much higher than a gasoline engine.So theyare more likely to have premature wear.
One of thebigissues with N2O is that the bottle has to be at the right pressure. Ambient temperatures affect the bottle pressure. If it is cold you will have lower PSI in the bottle. If it is hot out the PSI will be higher. These changes in PSI will affect how much N2O is being sprayed. This will affect your air fuel ratio.
Nitrous causes extremely high cylinder pressure and temperatures also.
In fact nitrous will melt platinum plug tips usually.
Now another issue you need to be careful of is N20 pooling in the intake tube or manifold. If this happens and you have a nitrous backfire your plastic manifold will grenade in to pieces. Hopefully not taking your engine and hood with it. Do a Internet video search on nitrous backfire to see some good video on this.
Buick was using turbos on the V-6 Reagls and Grand Nationals in 1984. Shelby used a centrigugal supercharger on the 1966 Shelby GT350 (optional). I would not consider either of those cars anywhere in the ricer category but sure a Mitsubishi is and they had turbos but they were late in the game.
Twin screw superchargers have a relief valve that remains open until you go wide-open-throttle. So tooling arounf town at partial throttle there is no load on the engine or additional pressure or wear. CF blowers need to be spooled up like a turbo so again unless you get heavy with the right foor there is no additional load on the engine.
I run nitrous on my fox body and a S/C on the S197.

wahooo

ok n2o ,i have read that it is very safe with the 75 shot in the 05 0r newer with the zex system ,they claim to not overspay that it is coordinated with the fuel ,is that possible then ?if i go n2o do i need the other options like a bottel warmer pressure regulator or purge system or is it not nessasary with the zex system ?it is interesting that the s/c can be controlled to not add boost all the time ,i will look into that more ,believe it or not i do like the s/c and turbo set up i have on the boat deisel ,evan thow i know i will not get the hours out of it i would want.also most of my experiance with cars are from the 70/80 after that i went bmw porsch mersadies ,not alot of speed but alot of road hugging.but during my younger years i had a 69 camarow 350 that i lost to a 80 something starion (MITSUBESE) and they allwere stock from the factory with the turbo ,it was not a option it was standered factory production just like buying a gt mustange and it only comes with a s/c. thanks rich

modaddict

Not to 'get on you' but if you have experience with nitrous since the 70's like you claim, I find it very strange that you are not aware of the importance of bottle pressure and temperature...

Personally, I like you to use a nitrogen assisted set-up so that the bottle has full pressure all the time and having an n20 set-up without a bottle warmer might as well just be for a purge show IMO.

Kits like these are the way to go IMO...

http://www.nanonitrous.com/howitworks/index.html

wadman

Ive got about 25 years experience with nitrous also and I can promise you in the 80's nobody used bottle warmers, purge kits or any of this crap. However I do agree it works much better with it. Ive gone back back and asked alot of the guys I use to race with and they all said they knew nothing of these items. I now have them and can see their value. I can tell you that heating the bottle with a torch is very dangerous. This can cause the integrity of the bottle to suffer. This can be dangerous for the guy filling your tank. Any time you heat metal you change its composition.

wahooo

SO THE BOTTEL WARMER IS A VERY GOOD THING NOW AND THE NITRGEN ASSIST I WILL LOOK AT NOW THANKS RICH