exx1976

Have you had problems with your charging system or alternator? If you answered yes, please say what they were, and what was done to fix them. If no, then you're a lucky SOB and I'm jealous!!

It's official, my positive battery cable is MELTING. I suspect the voltage regulator in the alternator is shot. I had some half-reputable people take a look (local parts store, who doesn't have a replacement cable OR alternator for it), and their first knee-jerk reactionwas that it's because the alternator is spinning the opposite way it was designed to spin. I don't think that should make a difference............. Should it?? I mean, it's just a rotor and a stator, right??

Anyway, yes, the cable is melting, there's this strange colored "goo" that's coming out of the end of the cable where the boot covers the terminal on the back of the alternator where the positive battery cable bolts onto. This morning, I opened the hood, started the car (it had been sitting ALL night), and that boot was so hot I couldn't leave my fingers on it for more than a second or two. The boot is also rather brittle, like it's been heated up pretty badly.

Can anyone shed some light? If it's a problem because the alternator is spinning backwards, I don't want to replace it with a stock alternator. This is going to cost me, too, because I'm sure the dealer isn't going to cover it because it's no longer in the factory location, yata yata..

Any advice would be most helpful.. Thanks guys!!

SirKnightTG

But doesn't Saleen backup your warranty if an authorized shop (like brenspeed) installs their s/c? Then you should have no problems with warranty in that case I would assume.

Are you SURE the alternator is spinning the opposite direction? If so then I'm surprised is hasn't already overheated and burnt up by now (due to its cooling fan spinning in the wrong direction).

Not only that, but I would think spinning the opposite way would reverse the +/- if it's anything at all like a typical electric motor.

drbobvs

It has nothing to do with it spinning the opposite way. I have had no problems with the chargijg system but many an alternator has gone bad on these S197's. You're right, it sounds like the voltage regulator. Get a cheap electrical testor and look at your volts and amp output from the alternator. If it needs to be replaced I recommmend getting an aftermarket one, they're almost surely to be more reliable.

On the positive side, it's better for it to go this way b/c,like others it happended to, if the alternator dropped voltage as it would if it truly went bad, your fuel system would not get enough power, causing a significant drop in pump output = lean condition under boost= you couldda been looking at a new engine.

exx1976

Thanks for the feedback, drbobvs.. Any idea on where to look for an aftermarket alternator? Also, do you know what the output voltage and amperage should be??

Sirknight - they MIGHT warranty it, but since I don't have the BASE Saleen kit, then technically, no, I probably am not warrantied, since I have a smaller pulley and a different tune than a stock Saleen blower. Even though this is a mechanical issue, and not one caused by fuel system delivery, I suspect that any little reason they can find, they'll use it, ya know??

drbobvs

voltage should be 14.6 or there-abouts. I'll have to get back to you on idle amperage.

exx1976

Thanks..

And again, if you have any ideas on where to get an aftermarket one, please let me know. I've been hunting around, and all I can find are brand new Motorcraft ones that are like $400.. :-(

drbobvs

OK, 135 amp max/ 82 amp idle. I'm almost certain the V6 and V8 alternators are the same. Sometimes you can get a "V6 part" cheaper so you may want to look around.

drbobvs

Here ya go, I found this too!! Man, I am so full of help today I can't believe it. I think I'm gonna go take nap.






REPAIRS



:: INSTALLED NEW ALTERNATOR & SPARK PLUGS, 10/13/06
I know you shouldn't do any major repairs on Friday the 13th but ohh well.

Switching out the alternator was scarily easy in a 2005 Mustang GT! Basically remove the throttle body and the remove 4 bolts which secure the alternator along with a wire fastener, torque the tenser to loosen the belt, remove electric plug and wire and it's off. Repeat in reverse and it's back on.
I got really lucky and purchased the new alternator from Prestige Mustang, www.pristigemustang.com located in Georgia for $150 plus $25 shipping! Ford Dealer wanted $530!!!
I also replaced the spark-plugs with Autolite's HT0s. Fairly simple install too.
BACKGROUND: My Stang started getting engine error codes "P0340" and "P0344." I would reset them with my SCT tuner but they would comeback after about an hour of driving in warm weather. After a few days I also started to hear a slight whining/humming noise coming from the front engine compartment which I narrowed down with using a wooden stick and my ear to the alternator area, (I know, really high-tech huh?). The error codes definitions are "Cam Shaft Position Sensor Failure Error." So I called up my ford dealer and they wanted $30 for a new sensor part so I figured what the heck and bought one. Installed the sensor in both positions with same error codes displaying after driving a while. :-(
I then logged onto the Modularfords.com 2005 Mustang forums and some really helpful and knowledgeable guys there pointed me to the alternator being the actual culprit for the engine error codes. I called my ford dealer and they wanted $481 plus CA tax for a total of $530 smackers for a new alternator! (Note: time to change shorts.)
After a few weeks of hunting online and putting up requests for the alternator on ebay I got nowhere, no one has the new alternators in stock except the ford dealers. I then got real lucky and "stumbled" onto a website which has used/new parts for late model Mustangs, www.preistigemustang.com contacted them and they had a NEW one for a GT in stock for $150! Awesome! If you purchase anything from them tell "Todd" that Kent aka RiscX says howdy. Todd is a really friendly/helpful guy to boot too.
So here's my cost breakdown/comparisons for shins and giggles regarding replacing the Alternator:
DEALER PRICES $822:
Dealer wanted $125 for diagnostics plus $481 for new Alternator plus estimated labor $150 for grand total of approximately $822 (includes tax + who knows what else they would have thrown in and charged too?)
MY ACTUAL COST $205:
Prestige Mustang New Alternator $175 (includes shipping), Cam Shaft Position Sensor $30 (was not the problem, ate it), My infinite time, labor and patience = $Priceless, for a grand total of $205.
TOTAL SAVINGS = $600

phatphil

OK obvious ?, I'm sure you've checked to see if its shorting out underneath the Extreme inlet tube, I know they were having problems with this happening. I forget whether you had any modifications done at the body shop, or headers installed where they may of had to move or undo the ground. Any number of things could be causing this. Any new installs that required any ground connections.

exx1976

Nope, no headers or anything else under-hood done at the body shop, just the side-exit exhaust.

Shorting out under the inlet tube? This would cause the problem I'm describing? Where would it be shorting out? I'd love nothing more than to go out there and find that it's just a wire I can reconnect and call it a day...