moosestang

google Aluminum vs. steel flywheel and make your own decision. For a daily driver I think the steel is a better choice.

hammeron

hopefully someone who knows will chime in....


from what i can tell, these are the locating dowels
and you need to put them in, using a brass or plastic hammer

moosestang

I figured it out. I just hope I got them in far enough. It would suck if one flew out. I hammered them in with a good old fashion hammer, but they would only go in so far. I was expecting to feel them on the other side, but that wasn't happening.

Attention Ford: Give us a little more slack on the hydraulic line you MOTHER ****ERS!

I wasted a few hours trying to remove the pilot bearing. I tried a slide hammer. I tried the fill with bearing grease and socket trick. Someone said they had to heat up the crank shaft and cool off the bearing with canned air tuned upside down in order to remove it. Well I wasn't going through all that. The stock bearing looked perfect so I moved on.

The transmission is back in the car. I just need to bolt everything back up. I unbolted the engine crossmember like mustard suggested and it worked like a charm.

The clutch disk looks like it has a lot of material left, but it is down to the rivets. I guess the stock clutch had a lot more material when new. I'll have some more pictures up later today of the stock clutch.

mygt500

Keep us posted moose! J

mustard05

glad i could help moose, its a lot easier to drop it that way. and you get good clearance

Diabolical!

Glad you got it. Sorry I wasn't online to help.

moosestang

It was definately easier. I wasn't sure if I needed to loosen the two bolts on each side that hold the K-member(?) to the body. Well I just loosened them way down, but didn't remove them. Upon retightening the passenger side I realized it just wasn't going all the way up without breaking the bolts. I unscrewed one and it was clearly cross threaded at the factory. I had a good 1/2 inch to go and I was allready hitting 100 ft lbs of torque, so I decided to get some from my local dealer tomorrow.

As for the stock clutch, here are some pics. It looks like it's almost down to the backside of the rivets.




Is it just me or is there not much between the friction material on the stock clutch. Those thin pieces of metal that look warped is all there is.



I left this one large so you could see the rivets better, not sure if it will show up full size though.



and it didn't. I can't ever post a picture that's more than 800 pixels wide. go here if you want to see a larger pic. http://www.pbase.com/paulyoly/image/95874795 Here's the spec billet steel flywheel installed.



and the pressure plate with clutch disc installed.



The stock pressure plate still looked pretty good, as did the stock flywheel.




Here's the slave cylinder mounted in the trans. Mine wasn't leaking and looked good besides all the dust on it, but i'd allready bought a new one so WTF.



A full how to with more pics is coming soon. Along with an opinion of the spec stage 2 after i've driven it for a few miles.

hammeron

wow great pics moose, looking forward
to the how to

blueherd02gt

woot.. Moose you got *****... I plan to do this this fall, along with a tubular K...

jazzysaxkid

glad you got it to work... those thin pieces of metal that looked warped are ur dish spring which absorbs some of the shock of clutch engagement, just in case anyone is curous [8D]