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Spark Blowout?

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Old 05-12-2008, 03:33 PM
  #11  
drbobvs
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Default RE: Spark Blowout?

I just Emailed E3 spark plugs, asking them if they plan to produce a plug for our V8s. I'll let you know what they say. I'd love to have the option of an E3 plug for our cars.
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:59 PM
  #12  
breathegood
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Default RE: Spark Blowout?

ORIGINAL: Simon1

ORIGINAL: breathegood

Now I'm getting mixed answers. I've been progressively leaning out the tune using my Predator, and the problem doesn't seem to be going away, but it's possible I haven't leaned it out enough yet. If I weren't so fricken busy right now, I would just shorten the gap on the factory plugs as a test. If they are new and aren't ceised into the head, how long should a plug swap take? Intuitively to me, it seems that spark blowout would cause the AFR to show rich conditions.
Tell me you don't have the factory plugs in? You need to invest some $$ in HTOs if you haven't already.

There is a special gapping tool you can buy for $20 or so and you will need a wire gap checker.

It's not if, but when, those stockers will turn in glow plugs and break off into the cylinder putting a nice window through your piston.

I beleive thecorrect gapping for 8-10 psi is.032-.034. That and a real tune will solve your issue.

Did you do the CMCV yet?
The car only has 5200 miles on it and only ~2100 of those are blown, so no, I haven't changed the factroy plugs yet. I went with cooler plugs on my S/C Tacoma to help alleviate some spark knock that I was having, and found that the truck runs better with the hotter plugs and more timing retard, so I'm not entirely convinced that swapping to cooler plugs is a universally good idea on all F/I applications....What I learned with tuning my truck for forced inductionsis that what works well for the massesat sea level, doen't necessarily apply at 6200'. If I go to the trouble of pulling the plugs, I would like to at least try the HTO's, but it seems like an expensive, and rather arduous proposition for something thatought tobe cheap, quick, and easy.

No, I haven't done the CMCV yet either.
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Old 05-12-2008, 04:09 PM
  #13  
moosestang
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Default RE: Spark Blowout?

ORIGINAL: breathegood


The car only has 5200 miles on it and only ~2100 of those are blown, so no, I haven't changed the factroy plugs yet. I went with cooler plugs on my S/C Tacoma to help alleviate some spark knock that I was having, and found that the truck runs better with the hotter plugs and more timing retard, so I'm not entirely convinced that swapping to cooler plugs is a universally good idea on all F/I applications....What I learned with tuning my truck for forced inductionsis that what works well for the massesat sea level, doen't necessarily apply at 6200'. If I go to the trouble of pulling the plugs, I would like to at least try the HTO's, but it seems like an expensive, and rather arduous proposition for something thatought tobe cheap, quick, and easy.

No, I haven't done the CMCV yet either.
With only 5200 miles your plugs should come out with no issues. I've never even done the tsb for removing the plugs. I just unscrew them.
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:28 PM
  #14  
hypersurf1
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Default RE: Spark Blowout?

With the correct socket, its not standard plug socket. It takes about 20 minutes to do them all. I gapped them with a punch anda vise with a hammer.
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Old 05-13-2008, 03:39 AM
  #15  
Simon1
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Default RE: Spark Blowout?

ORIGINAL: zkiller

Don W has been running HT1 on his supercharged car forever never a problem, just needs to be gapped right. In fact he said his car did not run on HT0 plugs very well. You only need the colder pugs if you are getting spark blow-out. If you are not , then installing colder pugs could cause them to foul easily. Spark blow-out pops in the exhaust and causes hesitation too. I would see if gapping the HT1s fixes the problem. If not buy a set of HT0 and gap them to .028 to solve the issue.
Brenspeed can send you the plugs pre-gapped if you need them.
The heat rangeof the plug has nothing to do with the spark gap. These are two different issues. The same heat will be produced in both applications, stock or colder plug. The difference is the colder plug will be able to disipate heat better and/or faster than the stock plug, which let's it maintain the proper operating range. Whatever power adder you have on your car, with increases in the 100 hp range it has been recomended by every source I have ever read, spoken to or listen to, to replace the plug with a cooler heat range. If your friend had issues with the HTOs in his car then he probably had a bad one in the bunch or they weren't gapped properly.

I'm surepeople can get away with running them for a while with their power adder,but why would you risk it knowing they aren't made to work in the application they are being used in? A $100 invested in some security just seems like the right thing to do.
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