What shifter to go with?
06-12-2008, 12:32 AM
#21
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 44
RE: What shifter to go with?
ORIGINAL: Ato
Sounds like operator error to me.
ORIGINAL: exx1976
*sigh*
Welcome to the ignore list.
ORIGINAL: cadillo
You arestating the obvious. Of course it was my error that the Dynamat got screwed up. I made that abundantly clear. I also made itclear that the reason I decided to go forward rather than reinstalling the OEM until I could get more Dynamat delivered was that I had read that the Dynamat was no longer needed inside the car due to the addition of an additional piece of rubber mat now included.
Please refer to the fine instructions posted by Taco Bill. In his revision of Step #12 he states:
'Step 12: No Dynomat required on the INSIDE of the car. Replaced by a thin rubber insulation pad that rests on top of the trans tunnel, then the thicker foam insulator pad on top of it.'
Don't take my word for it. Do a search and pull it up and have a look for yourself.
It was for this reason only that I took a chance and went forward at that point rather than backing up and waiting for another day when I had more Dynamat. The two pads were installed just as explained and illustrated in the presentation. And yes I was a little surprised at the noise level, and even became concerned that I might have inadvertantly screwed the linkage block out more than the eight turns I thought I had and might have thus possibly done some damage to the transmission as MGW warns in their written instructions. Re-installing the OEM proved that this was not the case and put me at ease in that regard
Are you truly sure that Dynamat is in fact a sound deadener, and notdesigned instead to shield out radiation in case the terrorists lace our country's asphalt with radioactive waste?
I will re-install the MGW later, once I have several sheets of Dynamat in hand so as to get as much coverage as possible on both the outside and inside areas around the shifter, because you never know when those terrorists are going to strike again. I think that I will also cut a piece of mouse pad to act as additional cushion between the rear of the shifter and the body. It should compress nicely and help absorb some addiional vibration somewhat like the rubber bushing the EOM has in that same area.
The only reason I posted any of my results here was to hopefully help someone else from experiencing some of the pitfalls I encountered, even the self induced ones, and not to discourage anyone from buying this shifter, which I think is a fine piece of machinery, and I will put it into my car when I am better prepared to make it work as designed.
I once read on another forum that the number of a member's past posts is in no way a measureof his intellect, the size of his private parts, or his social standing.
The devil is always in the details!
Having said all that, I think that I've now beat this thing to death and will stand down and sit back and observe other threads in the hope of learning even more than I have already learned here from others here. "...and to all a good night"!
Cadillo Out!
ORIGINAL: exx1976
There's your problem. Installer error.
Dynamat is a sound deadener, that's what it is designed for. You damaged this trying to install it, decided to proceed without said sound deadener, and then are surprised when there's more noise than you expected??
ORIGINAL: cadillo
As I said, I don't claim to know the answer to this problem, but rather have some ideas about why it may exist.
In the first picture you attached is the rubber boot. As you may know the boot, mine at least(it may be a revised design)is double sided. It seals at both the floor pan below and at the shaft above with dead airspace in between. Nothing gets around it. It's seals out any flow of noise or heat from passing around it. Sure some noise and heat can pass through, but it's not getting around it.
In the second picture you show the layer of Dynamat over the hole in the trans tunnel. As I said in my post, I was not able to do this with my car, as it got stuck and screwed up as I attempted to get the piece through the opening. It could not be salvaged and there was not enough of the sheet left to cut another piece that big, so I proceeded with the two rubber mats shown in your third photo.
In the fourth photo you can see where MGW has placed a piece of Dynamat on the rear of the shifter where it contacts the underside of the car and is attached by the two studs. Clearly MGW knows that without some means of cushion/insulation between the car and the shifter at this point there will be some transfer of vibration from the trans to the shifter and then to the car body. I agree, but think that a little additional cushion is benificial in this regard.
Also in you fourth photo, please notice the rear of the OEM shifter, which is colored red. This is silimilar, but yet different from my OEM shifter in that mine has a corrugated rubber surface where it contacts the car body allowing for some compression in this area. The surface where it contacts the car body is somewhat like the soles of nurses shoes, that are designed to compress and absorb shock. When you tighten this part down, you can feel the rubber compress. The compressed thickness seems to be about 3/8" and designed to prevent vibration transfer from the shifter to the car body. When and if I reinstall the MGW, I will use some form of cushion other than a single layer of Dynamat in this area, but it will be significantly less than 3/8" thickness. Perhaps a double or triple layer of Dynamat will suffice and still not interfere with the geometry of the various parts.
I also believe that the major problem I have is that the shifter hole in the trans tunnel was inadequately sealed, something that can be cured with a sufficient amount of Dynamat, which I will have on hand in quantity before undertaking this again.
Don't misunderstand, I'm not slamming MGW. I like the shifter a great deal, but will have to correct the noise issue before I can live with it. I think that the simple addition of a good layer of Dynamat or similar material over the trans hump and around the shifter boot will make a huge improvement. In my case, I was doing this outside on a very hot day, the bank thermometer said 100, and under those conditions when the Dynamat hits a metal surface, it better be just right, because it pulls apart and makes a mess when you try to move it. Once I have laid in a supply of Dynamat, I will begin to plan how I will do this the next time.
The only advice I can give to anyone at this point is:
The MGW is a really nice shifter, but I would recommend that anyone wanting one obtain some extra Dynamat to have on hand before starting, and consider putting a least one additional layer on top of the rear connection point.
Also, I would recommend starting out with the adjustment of the linkage block all the way up until the shifter has had a chance to loosen up a little. It's a simple task to re-adjust it for an even shorter throw later.
As I said, I don't claim to know the answer to this problem, but rather have some ideas about why it may exist.
In the first picture you attached is the rubber boot. As you may know the boot, mine at least(it may be a revised design)is double sided. It seals at both the floor pan below and at the shaft above with dead airspace in between. Nothing gets around it. It's seals out any flow of noise or heat from passing around it. Sure some noise and heat can pass through, but it's not getting around it.
In the second picture you show the layer of Dynamat over the hole in the trans tunnel. As I said in my post, I was not able to do this with my car, as it got stuck and screwed up as I attempted to get the piece through the opening. It could not be salvaged and there was not enough of the sheet left to cut another piece that big, so I proceeded with the two rubber mats shown in your third photo.
In the fourth photo you can see where MGW has placed a piece of Dynamat on the rear of the shifter where it contacts the underside of the car and is attached by the two studs. Clearly MGW knows that without some means of cushion/insulation between the car and the shifter at this point there will be some transfer of vibration from the trans to the shifter and then to the car body. I agree, but think that a little additional cushion is benificial in this regard.
Also in you fourth photo, please notice the rear of the OEM shifter, which is colored red. This is silimilar, but yet different from my OEM shifter in that mine has a corrugated rubber surface where it contacts the car body allowing for some compression in this area. The surface where it contacts the car body is somewhat like the soles of nurses shoes, that are designed to compress and absorb shock. When you tighten this part down, you can feel the rubber compress. The compressed thickness seems to be about 3/8" and designed to prevent vibration transfer from the shifter to the car body. When and if I reinstall the MGW, I will use some form of cushion other than a single layer of Dynamat in this area, but it will be significantly less than 3/8" thickness. Perhaps a double or triple layer of Dynamat will suffice and still not interfere with the geometry of the various parts.
I also believe that the major problem I have is that the shifter hole in the trans tunnel was inadequately sealed, something that can be cured with a sufficient amount of Dynamat, which I will have on hand in quantity before undertaking this again.
Don't misunderstand, I'm not slamming MGW. I like the shifter a great deal, but will have to correct the noise issue before I can live with it. I think that the simple addition of a good layer of Dynamat or similar material over the trans hump and around the shifter boot will make a huge improvement. In my case, I was doing this outside on a very hot day, the bank thermometer said 100, and under those conditions when the Dynamat hits a metal surface, it better be just right, because it pulls apart and makes a mess when you try to move it. Once I have laid in a supply of Dynamat, I will begin to plan how I will do this the next time.
The only advice I can give to anyone at this point is:
The MGW is a really nice shifter, but I would recommend that anyone wanting one obtain some extra Dynamat to have on hand before starting, and consider putting a least one additional layer on top of the rear connection point.
Also, I would recommend starting out with the adjustment of the linkage block all the way up until the shifter has had a chance to loosen up a little. It's a simple task to re-adjust it for an even shorter throw later.
Dynamat is a sound deadener, that's what it is designed for. You damaged this trying to install it, decided to proceed without said sound deadener, and then are surprised when there's more noise than you expected??
Please refer to the fine instructions posted by Taco Bill. In his revision of Step #12 he states:
'Step 12: No Dynomat required on the INSIDE of the car. Replaced by a thin rubber insulation pad that rests on top of the trans tunnel, then the thicker foam insulator pad on top of it.'
Don't take my word for it. Do a search and pull it up and have a look for yourself.
It was for this reason only that I took a chance and went forward at that point rather than backing up and waiting for another day when I had more Dynamat. The two pads were installed just as explained and illustrated in the presentation. And yes I was a little surprised at the noise level, and even became concerned that I might have inadvertantly screwed the linkage block out more than the eight turns I thought I had and might have thus possibly done some damage to the transmission as MGW warns in their written instructions. Re-installing the OEM proved that this was not the case and put me at ease in that regard
Are you truly sure that Dynamat is in fact a sound deadener, and notdesigned instead to shield out radiation in case the terrorists lace our country's asphalt with radioactive waste?
I will re-install the MGW later, once I have several sheets of Dynamat in hand so as to get as much coverage as possible on both the outside and inside areas around the shifter, because you never know when those terrorists are going to strike again. I think that I will also cut a piece of mouse pad to act as additional cushion between the rear of the shifter and the body. It should compress nicely and help absorb some addiional vibration somewhat like the rubber bushing the EOM has in that same area.
The only reason I posted any of my results here was to hopefully help someone else from experiencing some of the pitfalls I encountered, even the self induced ones, and not to discourage anyone from buying this shifter, which I think is a fine piece of machinery, and I will put it into my car when I am better prepared to make it work as designed.
I once read on another forum that the number of a member's past posts is in no way a measureof his intellect, the size of his private parts, or his social standing.
The devil is always in the details!
Having said all that, I think that I've now beat this thing to death and will stand down and sit back and observe other threads in the hope of learning even more than I have already learned here from others here. "...and to all a good night"!
Cadillo Out!
Welcome to the ignore list.
Sounds like operator error to me.
You've certainly got the cut and paste skills down, but should have spent more time on developing your reading and comprehension skills.
Read this part slowly, or better yet get someone there to explain it for you.
"The second time I installed it, I bought Dynamat in bulk and put a double layer on both top and bottom along with the supplied boot and insulation mats. The tranny whined likean old Studebaker. Like before, reinstalling the OEM brought things back to normal."
And, no I didn't get mad because things didn't work out. I never said or implied that, I just wanted to share my experience. I do get frustrated when someone tries to put words in my mouth either through malice or pure ignorance. I think I've run into some of each with a couple of folks here.
Work on that reading comprehension.
I'll waste no more time with your obstinate ignorance.
06-12-2008, 11:21 AM
#25
2010 Section Moderator
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Lithia, FL
Posts: 3,328
RE: What shifter to go with?
Sounds like a couple of you little boys don't play well together. Here is some advice that I use on my 7 and 9 year old boys. If ya have nothing nice to say then say nothing at all. I don't believe we come to these post to read your boyschool BS bickering.
06-14-2008, 10:40 AM
#26
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 59
RE: What shifter to go with?
I just installed the Hurst Competition Plus today. What an improvement. Looks and feels great. Car is much more fun too drive! As for the MGW I have not used one so I don't know anything about them.
06-15-2008, 05:01 PM
#28
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Alberta Canada
Posts: 1,432
RE: What shifter to go with?
not to quote anyone but ive got the pro comp non buillet one and i get trans noise aswell i put dynamat around the hole inside of the car and around the dust boot and still noise.(yeah creative lol) any other suddgestions or mgw guy wanna trade and see if the others work for eachother lol
