moosestang

Some owners in South America say the owners manual recommends 5w30. There is no difference in the engine, they just don't have 5w20 readily available and there's no CAFE down there to worry about.

I put in mobil 1 5w30 last oil change and haven't noticed a difference. I'm not sure a thinner oil is the best thing for a forced induction motor, which mine is. On a stock motor, I don't think the difference will amount to a hill of beans, unless you are racing it every weekend.

moosestang

Oh, I have yet to check my catch can since changing to 5w30. It would be nice if I get less oil in there, because I was getting plenty with the mobil 1 5w20.

moosestang

That Manufacturer just lost billions of dollars, so maybe they ain't that smart. I didn't lose any money last quarter.

shooter23

the difference is next to nothing, and you wont notice it in your car.

I run a garage, using these oils all day, and I have even changed the types of oils for higher end cars that I work on.
Porsche especially.

It will only make a difference when the engine is hot, the 20w will still remain thinner when hot than a 30w...but again,
you wont notice a difference...

Run 10w30 and then you'll notice the difference...

I run 5w20 synthetic...

CataclysmGT

My engine builder said to run 10w30 for the new stroker. I can tell you one thing, it is a bit "cold blooded" on start-up. Doesn't seem any different at temp (minus the extra hp from running 12 psi!!) Haha

Lt. Frank Bullitt

Did I see someone mention Tufoil??? OMG! Don't ever use a PTFE oil additive in these engines. There are critical oil passages that can become impaired by the PTFE solids. Things like cam phasers passages etc.

alloutt

can you provide some articles?

SCCAGT

DuPont, the maker of Teflon (PTFE) says NOT to use it in automotive engines.
Teflon swells as it warms up, and will be filtered out (if you use a good filter, like you should), becoming pointless to spend the money on it in the first place. Not to mention clogging up the filter and making it run in by-pass (unfiltered).
I dont need to say 'Dont use in THESE engines' because of cam phasers and passages. I say 'dont use in ANY engine, period'. Waste of your hard earned money.
I, too, run a repair shop. You wont notice any difference between 5W20 and 5W30. I used 0W20, 5W20, 0W30 and 5W30 in my Mustang. Currently have 5W30 Amsoil in it and will go to 0W30 in the winter. I switch between 5W and 0W every summer/winter in all my cars. If you have never experienced a 0W30 in the coldest winters, you dont know what your missing out on. What goes in my customers cars? 5W30 year round. Shooter23 could probably back me up when I say 90% of the public is oblivious to the maintenance of their cars, and only fixes things when they finally have to. If it runs till its paid for, they are doing good.

CataclysmGT

Used 0w20 Amsoil in the Stang last winter and it always started up instantly. Needless to say with the Brembos and built motor....she won't be seeing snow ever again.

Lt. Frank Bullitt

Here is an article about the additives:

What about Oil Additives like Slick 50, Prolong, Zmax and others

The fact is they are totally useless and in many cases actually detrimental to your engine. The Federal Trade Commission has issued charges of false and deceptive advertising that these and many other additive manufacturers have misled consumers into believing that their products offer increased engine protection and performance when added to your motor oil.

Federal Trade Commission Charges zMax with False and Deceptive Advertising

Read about the latest FTC charges against zMax in our informative articles link. ZMax is the latest company to be charged in a long list of companies. The FTC has successfully halted false and deceptive advertising by the marketers of Dura Lube, Motor Up, Prolong, Valvoline, Slick 50. STP and other major brands of engine treatment systems.

Without going into extensive detail here's what you need to know about aftermarket oil additives: There are basically two types of additives used, either Teflon based with PTFE (like Slick 50) or Chlorinated based (like Dura Lube) with some type of carrier, usually a paraffin based carrier or other mineral oil. Some have extremely large amounts of moly, zinc or phosphorus, all extreme pressure agents which are detrimental to a motor oils proper function in the amount that they use.

Teflon does absolutely nothing inside your engine. Teflon must be heated up to about 800 deg. F to get it to stick to anything for friction reducing purposes, just like the Teflon on a frying pan, yet in your engine all those suspended microscopic colloidal Teflon particles do is gradually attach to you oil pick-up screen and reduce oil flow to your critical components as well as reducing the oil flow in other critical internal engine passages by attaching themselves to the passageway walls. In addition, as your oil filter filters out some of these suspended Teflon particles, your filter flow rate will be reduced which may eventually become restricted and default in to by-pass mode, which means unfiltered oil will be flowing through your engine.

Ever get bleach on your fingers? It's pretty slippery isn't it? Same principle here. Add enough Chlorinated components to a carrier and mix it with some type of teflon, moly, zinc or phosporus & you can reduce the friction, except for one "minor" thing: Chlorinated additives mixed with oil and subjected to heat forms hydrochloric acid! Hydrochloric acid is extremely detrimental to you internal engine parts. Get the picture? That's it in a nutshell. Bottom line is: When using a properly formulated motor oil you do not need any additives whatsoever and additionally, the additives you may put in can react negatively with the additives the oil company carefully blended in. Do yourself a favor and stay away from aftermarket oil additives, regardless of how appealing the bogus claims they make in their advertising are!