DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
07-27-2008, 05:44 PM
#1
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DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
INSTALLING THE SALEEN VI SUPERCHARGER
To be supercharged: my 2005 Mustang GT, premium 5 speed manual with Ford Racing springs, Tokico D-Specs, Eibach Rear Sway, Steeda UCA & LCAs, BMR PH Bar, 20's on Nitto 555, AEM cold air intake (“CAI”), SCT tuner with custom tune, 4.10's, Steeda Triax shifter, CMDP, UD pulleys, JBA Shorties, Magnaflow exhaust w/ SLP catbacks, previously dyno'd at 308 rwhp/318 rwtq.
GOAL: provide average car enthusiast with comprehensive installation review for Saleen Series VI Supercharger kit for the 2005-2008 Mustang GT. I chose to do this write-up as others have done before me so that it can ease the common man’s woes of whether or not to do the install themselves. Moreover, I am hoping that this review will cement myself firmly in the annals of Mustang mod folklore and serve as the springboard for other adventurous Do-It-Yourself-ers!
Keep in mind that I am a 32 year old attorney and have maybe changed oil 3 times in my life. Just recently, I installed my own rear sway bar, rear lower control arms, upper control arm, panhard bar, and shocks/struts. This is the extent of my mechanical experience. You could say that I have virtually no mechanical background or car installation experience whatsoever. Now I made some mistakes in this installation, mistakes that you can learn from, but it was a successful install. While this is not a job for the faint of heart, the bottom line is: IF I CAN DO IT, ANYONE CAN DO IT!!!!
COMPLETION TIME: 4-5 days WORKING BREAK-NECK PACE.
Anyone can turn this . . .
Into this . . .
Even me.
To be supercharged: my 2005 Mustang GT, premium 5 speed manual with Ford Racing springs, Tokico D-Specs, Eibach Rear Sway, Steeda UCA & LCAs, BMR PH Bar, 20's on Nitto 555, AEM cold air intake (“CAI”), SCT tuner with custom tune, 4.10's, Steeda Triax shifter, CMDP, UD pulleys, JBA Shorties, Magnaflow exhaust w/ SLP catbacks, previously dyno'd at 308 rwhp/318 rwtq.
GOAL: provide average car enthusiast with comprehensive installation review for Saleen Series VI Supercharger kit for the 2005-2008 Mustang GT. I chose to do this write-up as others have done before me so that it can ease the common man’s woes of whether or not to do the install themselves. Moreover, I am hoping that this review will cement myself firmly in the annals of Mustang mod folklore and serve as the springboard for other adventurous Do-It-Yourself-ers!
Keep in mind that I am a 32 year old attorney and have maybe changed oil 3 times in my life. Just recently, I installed my own rear sway bar, rear lower control arms, upper control arm, panhard bar, and shocks/struts. This is the extent of my mechanical experience. You could say that I have virtually no mechanical background or car installation experience whatsoever. Now I made some mistakes in this installation, mistakes that you can learn from, but it was a successful install. While this is not a job for the faint of heart, the bottom line is: IF I CAN DO IT, ANYONE CAN DO IT!!!!
COMPLETION TIME: 4-5 days WORKING BREAK-NECK PACE.
Anyone can turn this . . .
Into this . . .
Even me.
07-27-2008, 05:45 PM
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
Anyone can do it IF they have:
Money
The right tools
Perseverance
Patience
Desire to know their car better
Intelligence to read and follow directions
Problem solve when necessary
If you lack any of the aforementioned, I strongly recommend you just pay $800-$1400 and have a mechanic do the install. I love driving fast cars and always wanted to wrench on my own. After years of spending ridiculous amounts of $$$ for other mechanics to mod my previous sports/muscle cars (‘67 Camaro, ‘89 Stang GT, ’97 turbo’d Mitsu Eclipse G-st Spyder), I felt it was time to get my own hands dirty. I suppose that is the drive that is required to Do-It-Yourself.
The bottom line is that the installation of the Saleen Series VI Supercharger kit is difficult and challenging, but manageable and fun altogether.
Money
The right tools
Perseverance
Patience
Desire to know their car better
Intelligence to read and follow directions
Problem solve when necessary
If you lack any of the aforementioned, I strongly recommend you just pay $800-$1400 and have a mechanic do the install. I love driving fast cars and always wanted to wrench on my own. After years of spending ridiculous amounts of $$$ for other mechanics to mod my previous sports/muscle cars (‘67 Camaro, ‘89 Stang GT, ’97 turbo’d Mitsu Eclipse G-st Spyder), I felt it was time to get my own hands dirty. I suppose that is the drive that is required to Do-It-Yourself.
The bottom line is that the installation of the Saleen Series VI Supercharger kit is difficult and challenging, but manageable and fun altogether.
07-27-2008, 05:45 PM
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
My power goal = o/u 440rhp, considered by most to be do-able without throwing a rod.
To obtain this goal I purchased the following performance set up:
1. Saleen VI Twin Screw base model supercharger
2. Brenspeed Stage III Upgrade Kit for the Saleen VI supercharger
a. HTO spark plugs
b. 3.4” pulley
c. Belt
d. 39# injectors
e. Steeda CAI (didn’t come with inlet tube, so I used my stocker)
f. Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump (“KB BAP”)
g. Custom tune file (would have came with SCT Tuner, but had my own)
h. Vacuum line kit (really only one 4” piece of hose)
3. Moroso Oil Separator set up from Summit Racing:
a. Moroso Oil separator
b. MOR-63401 3" can bracket
c. SPE-3260 5/8" clamps (qty-2)
d. EAR-403010ERL 3ft -10 Perform-O-Flex steel braided hose
e. EAR-812010ERL -10 AN 120* swivel-seal hose end
f. EAR-800110ERL -10 AN straight swivel-seal hose end
4.Steel braided hose covering engine dress up kit from Summit Racing. This is cheap crap and I wish I saved my $20.
To obtain this goal I purchased the following performance set up:
1. Saleen VI Twin Screw base model supercharger
2. Brenspeed Stage III Upgrade Kit for the Saleen VI supercharger
a. HTO spark plugs
b. 3.4” pulley
c. Belt
d. 39# injectors
e. Steeda CAI (didn’t come with inlet tube, so I used my stocker)
f. Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump (“KB BAP”)
g. Custom tune file (would have came with SCT Tuner, but had my own)
h. Vacuum line kit (really only one 4” piece of hose)
3. Moroso Oil Separator set up from Summit Racing:
a. Moroso Oil separator
b. MOR-63401 3" can bracket
c. SPE-3260 5/8" clamps (qty-2)
d. EAR-403010ERL 3ft -10 Perform-O-Flex steel braided hose
e. EAR-812010ERL -10 AN 120* swivel-seal hose end
f. EAR-800110ERL -10 AN straight swivel-seal hose end
4.Steel braided hose covering engine dress up kit from Summit Racing. This is cheap crap and I wish I saved my $20.
07-27-2008, 05:45 PM
#4
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
I ordered a base Saleen VI supercharger from UGM (Underground Motors) out of New Jersey. I paid $3.8k for the s/c on UGM’s ebay sale. After over 3 weeks of waiting I was getting edgy. I called them up and they told me the unit was missing some parts. They said I could continue to wait or get my $ back. The problem was in anticipation of the kit shipping, I already purchased the Brenspeed upgrade kit ($1200) and a Moroso oil separator ($200).
So I was stuck. Then, after over a month of waiting, this transaction started wreaking of some type of bull****. I was pissed and called UGM. I explained to UGM that I was an attorney and, though I didn’t want to, could seek damages for breach of contract and promissory estoppel (reliance) damages. I didn’t want to make a bone, I just wanted my s/c to ship.
After this conversation, the UGM rep told me that the unit was defective and they were trying to fix it so that they could ship it to me. He said the unit had not shipped because they had not been able to get JDM to fix the kit and they refused to ship me a kit that wasn’t working. I told him I didn’t want anything to do with a defective unit so he shipped me a new unit at $300 less than their cost. We split the difference and I paid, in toto, $4.1k, or $300 more than I initially paid. In fairness to UGM, they always took my calls, were nice, and finally got me my s/c. I went for the rock bottom deal, and although it worked out, I saved roughly $600.
MY ADVICE: save the headache!!! Pay a little extra ($600) and get the unit from a well known dealer.
So I was stuck. Then, after over a month of waiting, this transaction started wreaking of some type of bull****. I was pissed and called UGM. I explained to UGM that I was an attorney and, though I didn’t want to, could seek damages for breach of contract and promissory estoppel (reliance) damages. I didn’t want to make a bone, I just wanted my s/c to ship.
After this conversation, the UGM rep told me that the unit was defective and they were trying to fix it so that they could ship it to me. He said the unit had not shipped because they had not been able to get JDM to fix the kit and they refused to ship me a kit that wasn’t working. I told him I didn’t want anything to do with a defective unit so he shipped me a new unit at $300 less than their cost. We split the difference and I paid, in toto, $4.1k, or $300 more than I initially paid. In fairness to UGM, they always took my calls, were nice, and finally got me my s/c. I went for the rock bottom deal, and although it worked out, I saved roughly $600.
MY ADVICE: save the headache!!! Pay a little extra ($600) and get the unit from a well known dealer.
07-27-2008, 05:46 PM
#5
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
REFERENCES:
1. Saleen’s supercharger install manual (I read it at least 10 times and almost knew the steps by memory)
2. Whipple s/c installation manual (to cross reference pictures and instructions)
3. Tacobill’s underdrive pulley swap instructions
4. Tacobill’s valve cover swap instructions
5. Oil Separator: ATTN MODADDICT thread
6. Ford TSB 7-18-2 upper strut replacement/rattling fix
7. Pure Sexy Eye Candy thread for the paint work
8. Tacobill’s KB BAP install write-up
9. Matt Millen's Install Experience
10.MMFF Saleen Install
11. Hameron’s Bumbleboost Project
12. Mustanglife 475hp Saleen Install
INSTALLATION GOALS:
1. Pull engine apart
2. Paint CAI heat shield, valve covers, throttle body (“TB”), Moroso Oil Separator & fuel rails
3. Pull off Underdrive (“UD”) pulleys and install stock water pump & crank pulleys
4. Install Saleen supercharger with Brenspeed upgrade kit.
5. Install Moroso Oil Separator
6. Perform TSB fix for front suspension rattle sounds by replacing upper strut mounts & sway bar endlink nuts
7. Paint brake calipers red (not initially my goal, but the TSB fix got me thinking.)
So as you can see, I took on a lot more work than just installing a s/c. But my neighbor Ed and my father-in-law Tom said they would help me out whenever they could. Tom and Ed hooked me up with the tools I didn’t have, and Ed came through with a 220v compressor, impact gun, box end wrench set, heat gun and some very choice Crafstman tools which saved the day.
MY ADVICE: If you are considering a DIY project, GET THE RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB!!!!
1. Saleen’s supercharger install manual (I read it at least 10 times and almost knew the steps by memory)
2. Whipple s/c installation manual (to cross reference pictures and instructions)
3. Tacobill’s underdrive pulley swap instructions
4. Tacobill’s valve cover swap instructions
5. Oil Separator: ATTN MODADDICT thread
6. Ford TSB 7-18-2 upper strut replacement/rattling fix
7. Pure Sexy Eye Candy thread for the paint work
8. Tacobill’s KB BAP install write-up
9. Matt Millen's Install Experience
10.MMFF Saleen Install
11. Hameron’s Bumbleboost Project
12. Mustanglife 475hp Saleen Install
INSTALLATION GOALS:
1. Pull engine apart
2. Paint CAI heat shield, valve covers, throttle body (“TB”), Moroso Oil Separator & fuel rails
3. Pull off Underdrive (“UD”) pulleys and install stock water pump & crank pulleys
4. Install Saleen supercharger with Brenspeed upgrade kit.
5. Install Moroso Oil Separator
6. Perform TSB fix for front suspension rattle sounds by replacing upper strut mounts & sway bar endlink nuts
7. Paint brake calipers red (not initially my goal, but the TSB fix got me thinking.)
So as you can see, I took on a lot more work than just installing a s/c. But my neighbor Ed and my father-in-law Tom said they would help me out whenever they could. Tom and Ed hooked me up with the tools I didn’t have, and Ed came through with a 220v compressor, impact gun, box end wrench set, heat gun and some very choice Crafstman tools which saved the day.
MY ADVICE: If you are considering a DIY project, GET THE RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB!!!!
07-27-2008, 05:46 PM
#6
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
Before the Saleen supercharger arrived, I assembled the CAI. To match my car, painted its heat shield black and the Oil Separator yellow and black.
07-27-2008, 06:53 PM
#8
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
THE SUPERCHARGER ARRIVES AND INSTALL BEGINS!
WEDNESDAY NIGHT: I finished 8 hours at the office in San Francisco, came home around 6pm, pulled the saleen components out of the box, pulled all my tools out, and worked til 2 am. I was pretty excited to get started after waiting over a month just for my Saleen s/c to ship.
PREP-WORK: pulled fuel pump fuse, started the car and drained the fuel line; vacuumed top of engine; battery out; shroud out (popped out x/mas trees by pulling male end out of the female end with a flat head screwdriver); drained coolant; detached engine bay harnesses (MAF, Electronic Throttle Control, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Throttle Position Sensor, etc…); removed aftermarket CAI to replace with Brenspeed’s.
ORGANIZE: I labeled harnesses (MAF, ETC, TPS, etc…) and their corresponding connections that I took apart to take the confusion out of putting them back together.
I taped together nuts/bolts, etc… that came off car, labeled them, and stuck ‘em to wall.
Also during install, I repeatedly put my tools back where they belonged and my trophy wife made sure I had food at the ready.
BUMPER: Removed front bumper fascia to mount intercooler pump and heat exchanger. Used 8” extension & 10mm wobbly socket to remove two nuts inside fender liner of wheel wells. After, pushed down on corner of fascia so it could clear the well studs and fascia slid right out. Unplugged harnesses to fog lights and head lights. Completely removed passenger side fender liner to access firewall grommet to route water pump wire in later step.
WEDNESDAY NIGHT: I finished 8 hours at the office in San Francisco, came home around 6pm, pulled the saleen components out of the box, pulled all my tools out, and worked til 2 am. I was pretty excited to get started after waiting over a month just for my Saleen s/c to ship.
PREP-WORK: pulled fuel pump fuse, started the car and drained the fuel line; vacuumed top of engine; battery out; shroud out (popped out x/mas trees by pulling male end out of the female end with a flat head screwdriver); drained coolant; detached engine bay harnesses (MAF, Electronic Throttle Control, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Throttle Position Sensor, etc…); removed aftermarket CAI to replace with Brenspeed’s.
ORGANIZE: I labeled harnesses (MAF, ETC, TPS, etc…) and their corresponding connections that I took apart to take the confusion out of putting them back together.
I taped together nuts/bolts, etc… that came off car, labeled them, and stuck ‘em to wall.
Also during install, I repeatedly put my tools back where they belonged and my trophy wife made sure I had food at the ready.
BUMPER: Removed front bumper fascia to mount intercooler pump and heat exchanger. Used 8” extension & 10mm wobbly socket to remove two nuts inside fender liner of wheel wells. After, pushed down on corner of fascia so it could clear the well studs and fascia slid right out. Unplugged harnesses to fog lights and head lights. Completely removed passenger side fender liner to access firewall grommet to route water pump wire in later step.
07-27-2008, 06:56 PM
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2008
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
SPARK PLUGS: I replaced the stock spark plugs with non-gapped cooler HTO’s. Brenspeed advised at my power level that gapping plugs to .32 was NOT necessary. To get plugs out, I sprayed WD40 squirt in plug wells and left for 15 minutes. While engine was cold, I loosened plugs with 9/16 regular socket (I tried to buy an actual 9/16 spark plug socket that had rubber interior lining but couldn’t find at Kragen or Autozone. I didn’t have to follow Ford TSB plug removal directions as plugs easily came out (only had 20k miles on ‘em). Pulled plugs out of wells very carefully with needle nose pliers (you might want to use magnet instead). Replaced them with HTO plugs, applied nickel anti-seize and torqued to spec (25 ft/lbs).
FUEL LINE: Put your smokes out: used Ford fuel disconnect tool to unboot fuel line from fuel pressure regulator. Slight gas spill, not bad though, so have towel at the ready. Fumes vaporized with garage open. Removed fuel rails by taking off mounting hardware and FIRMLY pulling rails upward.
Unbolted and removed intake manifold and taped off intake ports to ensure no debris falls into ‘em.
FUEL LINE: Put your smokes out: used Ford fuel disconnect tool to unboot fuel line from fuel pressure regulator. Slight gas spill, not bad though, so have towel at the ready. Fumes vaporized with garage open. Removed fuel rails by taking off mounting hardware and FIRMLY pulling rails upward.
Unbolted and removed intake manifold and taped off intake ports to ensure no debris falls into ‘em.
07-27-2008, 06:58 PM
#10
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RE: DIY: HOW TO INSTALL SALEEN VI S/C (tutorial, pics, & vids)
PAINT WORK: Unbolted valve covers, fuel rails and TB, sanded/scuffed them, turpentine cleaned ‘em. Sprayed ‘em with many coats of Duplicolor primer, yellow and then clear. Spray away from car, in cordoned-off area because paint dust will fall beyond spray vicinity. Cleaning, sanding and painting parts was actually a long PITA. Moreover, paint job came out amateur at best, crappy at worst.
BUT taking a step back from the engine bay once painted parts were on, it really made a positive difference. That is, from afar the paint work looks badass, but scrutinizing my paint skills up close will only lead to one conclusion – I better keep my day job. I taped up the parts to protect ‘em for install but paint chipped despite effort.
BUT taking a step back from the engine bay once painted parts were on, it really made a positive difference. That is, from afar the paint work looks badass, but scrutinizing my paint skills up close will only lead to one conclusion – I better keep my day job. I taped up the parts to protect ‘em for install but paint chipped despite effort.