RST Installed FINALLY!
08-20-2008, 08:33 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: CA
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RST Installed FINALLY!
Finally after 3 1/2 weeks of no stang I got her back today. I did not do the install myself so I can't offer too much help but I will ask the mechanic if there is any trick or adjustments we should know about.
Any way only driven the car about 20 miles so far, mostly in heavy traffic. The pedal is lite and smooth probably similiar to stock, but I have not had a stock clutch in over a year so I can't say for sure, but it is lighter than the Specs II+ I had in there, no chatter, disengagement and engagement feels good, the only thing I am going to ask them is if the pedal can be adjust some, the pedal disengages/engages near the top of the pedal, I would prefer to have it more towards the middle, but other than that so far so good.
Any way only driven the car about 20 miles so far, mostly in heavy traffic. The pedal is lite and smooth probably similiar to stock, but I have not had a stock clutch in over a year so I can't say for sure, but it is lighter than the Specs II+ I had in there, no chatter, disengagement and engagement feels good, the only thing I am going to ask them is if the pedal can be adjust some, the pedal disengages/engages near the top of the pedal, I would prefer to have it more towards the middle, but other than that so far so good.
08-20-2008, 09:02 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nicely done
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ok, so it sounds like the slave bearing
is too close to the pressure plate
fingers for your liking....
this is what i'm interested in....where the
bearing should be setup on the tranny shaft, for
optimal feel
is too close to the pressure plate
fingers for your liking....
this is what i'm interested in....where the
bearing should be setup on the tranny shaft, for
optimal feel
08-20-2008, 09:55 PM
#3
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Detroit Rock City!
Posts: 15,618
Congrats and hopefully it can be adj the way you wanted and let us know of any tricks or adj needed as you get her the way you like it! Feel like a new car considering you have been without it for so long?
08-20-2008, 10:24 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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I should find out about the adjustment tomorrow, I am sure it can be just not sure if the trans needs to be pulled again, if so I will probably live with it, it's not bad just higher than I would like.
08-20-2008, 10:25 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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It does feel like a new ride, I even gave it a hug when I got it back. Can't wait for the clutch to get broke in so I can take for a fun ride.
08-21-2008, 07:45 AM
#6
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hammeron, Here is the right up from the other forum its by 05AthonyGT
I installed this McLeod adjutable slave/brg combo on Wednesday. My Centerforce dual friction clutch didn't hold up o the Whipple so I switched to the Centerforce DFX disc which really bites down hard.
You'll see in the pics that a hole must be cut out of the bell housing at a lower point than the existing hole for the stock steel tube. It is very important that you cut the hole in the right spot for several reasons. You don't want it too far towards the pressure plate or too high that you can't reach in there to adjust the new slave. You'll also see that on the inside of the bell housing there's some ribbing that's part of the original Tremec mold. The ribbing is there for durability while the engine is torquing under load. I cut the hole in between two ribs which resulted in my hand not fitting inside the hole completely, but I can still adjust the thing with the aid of a screwdriver which I just use to help push and rotate the slave for adjustment purposes.
The 2 hoses must be stuffed back in the bell housing before you attempt to spin the slave because they need to rotate with it. They'll just slap around in the bell housing as you rotate the unit. Once you've made your required adjustment you just pull the hoses back out through the bell and tie them off securely. I used 2 wire ties on each hose.
McLeod's instructions really suck, but Justin Burcham gave me a good run down on how to install and adjust this thing which really is quite simple. You are supposed to get a measurement from the pressure plate diaphram to the engine block where the tranny mounts by using a straight edge and a tape or ruler. Write that distance down. Install the slave/brg and get a measurement from the end of the bell housing (where the engine mates) to the throwout brg. Then adjust the slave so it's .150 (a little more than 1/8'') away from the pressure plate diaphram once the tranny is bolted up. I spent a good 20 minutes coming up with an accurate measurement, but I've got to tell you, it won't be adjusted right unless you're lucky.
Your best bet is to just install the thing with it unthreaded several turns, bleed the system look in the bell housing and make sure the brg is NOT in contact with the diaphram after you actually take a couple of long screwdrivers and push the bearing back away from the diaphram towards the rear of the car. After you help it back, just make sure the bearing in about 1/8'' or more away from the diaphram. You can start the car, see where the pedal engages and adjust from there. You have to disconnect the hydraulic line to adjust, then bleed the system again after every adjustment, but bleeding goes quickly as long as you have a person in the car while you are under it.
If the clutch is engaging too far up on the pedal stroke then adjust the slave farther away from the diaphram. If it engages too close to the floor then adjust it closer to the diaphram. Try to get it where it's not too close to the floor though if you want to get good clean speed shifts.
Keep in mind, mine was engaging up a little too high so I adjusted the slave one full turn back and it didn't make much difference at all. This tell me to turn it 2 complete rotations which I'll be doing later today. That's real nice to be able to fine tune the adjustment.
As far as what to use to cut the hole in the bell....I used a hole saw to cut 3 hole right next to each other the a die grinder to clean up and square off the hole into one large rectangle hole. Don't forget to grind off any sharp edges that might damage the hoses over time. You could also just draw your hole with a marker then drill a bunch of small holes very close to each other then punch out the center and clean it all up with a die grinder. Just pay close attention to where you open the hole up in the bell. I have enough pics to pretty much show the right spot. Keep the new slave/brg away from the aluminum grindings and dust created from making the hole. You don't want that crap in there. Also, rap a rag around the input shaft with some tape to keep the metal dust off of the splines, otherwise just blow it out with compressed air.
My thoughts on the Centerforce DFX clutch....it's the way to go with a blower or turbo. Justin Burcham recommended it and we all know Justin knows what's good. He was right, it's a fine clutch. It has minimal on/off feel unlike the Spec stage 3 and I have experienced zero chatter. It's just a little more crude than stock with heavier, but not too heavy pedal effort. It grabs like a truck clutch which is what we want.
Justin Burcham (JPC Racing) stocks these McLeod units along with the Centerforce DFX clutch packages. I've been buying most of my crap from him for over 3 years now.
This first pic was borrowed from another thread...thanks!
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...g/14-301-2.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...g?t=1209821972
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...g?t=1209822018
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...g?t=1209822071
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...g?t=1209822107
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...g?t=1209822135
Here is some additional info from the write up
On another note....beware of this. When you stuff the steel braided lines into the bell housing to adjust the slave, the lines can easily get caught up behind the pressure plate and create a nightmare. It happened to me today and I thought I might have to pull the transmission. I mean the bleeder fitting was really hung up. I stuck with it for a while and got it out and adjusted, but what a bitch! Your best bet is to try to get that .150 clearance between the tb and plate diaphram. Of course, the bearing and moving part of the slave will have to be pryed back to check the clearance. I just used a 1/8'' piece of aluminum and stuck it up in the bell and made sure there was a little play between the diaphram and tb since 1/8'' is a bit short of .150
Just an FYI mine is set at .125 which may be why the disengagment is near the top of the pedal
I installed this McLeod adjutable slave/brg combo on Wednesday. My Centerforce dual friction clutch didn't hold up o the Whipple so I switched to the Centerforce DFX disc which really bites down hard.
You'll see in the pics that a hole must be cut out of the bell housing at a lower point than the existing hole for the stock steel tube. It is very important that you cut the hole in the right spot for several reasons. You don't want it too far towards the pressure plate or too high that you can't reach in there to adjust the new slave. You'll also see that on the inside of the bell housing there's some ribbing that's part of the original Tremec mold. The ribbing is there for durability while the engine is torquing under load. I cut the hole in between two ribs which resulted in my hand not fitting inside the hole completely, but I can still adjust the thing with the aid of a screwdriver which I just use to help push and rotate the slave for adjustment purposes.
The 2 hoses must be stuffed back in the bell housing before you attempt to spin the slave because they need to rotate with it. They'll just slap around in the bell housing as you rotate the unit. Once you've made your required adjustment you just pull the hoses back out through the bell and tie them off securely. I used 2 wire ties on each hose.
McLeod's instructions really suck, but Justin Burcham gave me a good run down on how to install and adjust this thing which really is quite simple. You are supposed to get a measurement from the pressure plate diaphram to the engine block where the tranny mounts by using a straight edge and a tape or ruler. Write that distance down. Install the slave/brg and get a measurement from the end of the bell housing (where the engine mates) to the throwout brg. Then adjust the slave so it's .150 (a little more than 1/8'') away from the pressure plate diaphram once the tranny is bolted up. I spent a good 20 minutes coming up with an accurate measurement, but I've got to tell you, it won't be adjusted right unless you're lucky.
Your best bet is to just install the thing with it unthreaded several turns, bleed the system look in the bell housing and make sure the brg is NOT in contact with the diaphram after you actually take a couple of long screwdrivers and push the bearing back away from the diaphram towards the rear of the car. After you help it back, just make sure the bearing in about 1/8'' or more away from the diaphram. You can start the car, see where the pedal engages and adjust from there. You have to disconnect the hydraulic line to adjust, then bleed the system again after every adjustment, but bleeding goes quickly as long as you have a person in the car while you are under it.
If the clutch is engaging too far up on the pedal stroke then adjust the slave farther away from the diaphram. If it engages too close to the floor then adjust it closer to the diaphram. Try to get it where it's not too close to the floor though if you want to get good clean speed shifts.
Keep in mind, mine was engaging up a little too high so I adjusted the slave one full turn back and it didn't make much difference at all. This tell me to turn it 2 complete rotations which I'll be doing later today. That's real nice to be able to fine tune the adjustment.
As far as what to use to cut the hole in the bell....I used a hole saw to cut 3 hole right next to each other the a die grinder to clean up and square off the hole into one large rectangle hole. Don't forget to grind off any sharp edges that might damage the hoses over time. You could also just draw your hole with a marker then drill a bunch of small holes very close to each other then punch out the center and clean it all up with a die grinder. Just pay close attention to where you open the hole up in the bell. I have enough pics to pretty much show the right spot. Keep the new slave/brg away from the aluminum grindings and dust created from making the hole. You don't want that crap in there. Also, rap a rag around the input shaft with some tape to keep the metal dust off of the splines, otherwise just blow it out with compressed air.
My thoughts on the Centerforce DFX clutch....it's the way to go with a blower or turbo. Justin Burcham recommended it and we all know Justin knows what's good. He was right, it's a fine clutch. It has minimal on/off feel unlike the Spec stage 3 and I have experienced zero chatter. It's just a little more crude than stock with heavier, but not too heavy pedal effort. It grabs like a truck clutch which is what we want.
Justin Burcham (JPC Racing) stocks these McLeod units along with the Centerforce DFX clutch packages. I've been buying most of my crap from him for over 3 years now.
This first pic was borrowed from another thread...thanks!
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...g/14-301-2.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...g?t=1209821972
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...g?t=1209822018
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...g?t=1209822071
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...g?t=1209822107
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l1...g?t=1209822135
Here is some additional info from the write up
On another note....beware of this. When you stuff the steel braided lines into the bell housing to adjust the slave, the lines can easily get caught up behind the pressure plate and create a nightmare. It happened to me today and I thought I might have to pull the transmission. I mean the bleeder fitting was really hung up. I stuck with it for a while and got it out and adjusted, but what a bitch! Your best bet is to try to get that .150 clearance between the tb and plate diaphram. Of course, the bearing and moving part of the slave will have to be pryed back to check the clearance. I just used a 1/8'' piece of aluminum and stuck it up in the bell and made sure there was a little play between the diaphram and tb since 1/8'' is a bit short of .150
Just an FYI mine is set at .125 which may be why the disengagment is near the top of the pedal
08-21-2008, 09:36 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 1,914
I will go by the shop on Saturday, the mechanic gets off work at 4:30 and I am not able to catch him before he leaves, I know he has figured out how/where to measure it, because he did not cut the hole in the bell housing. I am probably go to leave the pedal were it is at for now, I think it will drop some as the clutch breaks in.
