MustangGT0405

Well yesterday I had my Mcloed RST Twin Disc Installed along with a Billet Steel Flywheel.

I only have 50 miles on the clutch so far, so take this for what it is worth.

The first thing is the clutch action is NOT as light as stock. I would guesstimate with my
calibrated leg that it is about 20% stiffer. Are you going to need to hit the gym to use it? No but it is more than stock, but defineatly still easy to drive on the street.

The friction/engagement zone is wide and easy to modulate so getting away from a stop is simple. I am currently shifting between 2500-3000 rpms and accelerating slowly to moderate. The clutch defineatly wont allow you to "lug" a gear. You have to be in the right gear no matter what. There are places along my commute where I tend to stay in
third as I maneuver slower sections, but that wont work any more. It might get better when it breaks in.

When the car is in motion I get zero noise from the clutch, as one would expect. When idleing in neutral the clutch is noisey, with a kind of rattle. Push the clutch all the way in and the sound goes away. I believe this is the floater pate between the clutch discs so I would say it is normal.

My installer questioned my choice to run the steel flywheel. He has alot of mustang experience and said that if you have a positive displacement blower you should always go aluminum. The low end torque more than makes up for the lack of mass. I am not overly worried about it, but if I could go back I would probably get aluminum, but I am not switching from what I have now.

The installer put the stock TOB in the same place as he would with the stock clutch and it seems to be working fine. He told me that the install went perfect with zero issues. He did say that he noticed one of the bushings on my BMR control arms was split GRRRRRR. So now I have that to fix, but all in all I am very happy with my purchase so far.

I will probably get another 40 miles on the clutch before the car gets washed and put in the garage tonight Surgery tomorrow at 7am and then probably wont be able to drive it for a month. Luckily I have a 50+ mile commute each day to work so it will take less than 2 weeks to break it in once I am driving again.

I will spend my down time ordering parts That should help the time to pass.


I have been saving this for last for the review so as not to scare people. There is one huge problem we must deal with when we put in a high performance clutch on a FI car. YOU CANT GET INTO BOOST. I know I have said time and again you can drive an FI car and never see boost for thousands of miles, but to actually do it is painful. Driving 500 miles and babying the car might be the hardest automotive thing you will ever have to do.

AmericanSpeed

Hope the clutch does you well, mine has been nothing but problems. My clutch at idle is also very noisy when the AC is on. I'm dropping off my car there in a couple of minutes to put in a new TOB, hopefully that will help my clutch issues. I couldn't even get the car in reverse a couple of days ago after some hard runs. I'm lucky that I installed my clutch before the blower! That would def be a painful break-in! I've had the bushings in my BMR LCAs split as well. Jay said that he noticed that they are somewhat on the small side. I guess it's just something we are going to have to deal with. Good Luck with the surgery, but when you are recovered and get the clutch broken in, no excuses, you are coming to Orlando Speedworld.

Balys

I'm glad you like it and it all went well. To me it felt significantly lighter than stock, but I'm sure the feel is different for each person. You will be even more happy once it's broken in the feel gets progressively better the more you drive it.

MustangGT0405

American - Yes the noise does get louder when the compressor comes on, but it will also do it when it is off. Just something to get used to I think. Hopefully the TOB fix's your problem. Yeah I think these bushings might be a problem. I will contact them and get some replacements but if they break again I might swap them out for something else. I only have 3k miles on the lca's and they break already? I dont even have my DR's yet.

Speedworld is garbage but I might go anyway just to see my MPH. When I get serious I am going to go visit Moose in Gainesville and run at his track.

Balys - I drove the car basically back to back and defineatly feel an increase in resistance. Like I said though it has only been 50 miles so it might get significant looser over time. I will make an update once it is broke in.

hammeron

excellent review thanks for taking the
time to do it

i like the fact that you've prepared us for
a noisier clutch, knowing it ahead of
time, makes it a non issue. it's a performance
versus luxury tradeoff, i suppose.

what happens when you lug the engine, does the
clutch start to chatter? thanks for clarifying....


good luck with the surgery, here's to a quick
recovery

sactown

So far I am very happy with mine, the pedal feels great, not hard to push in at all. I did get on it a little this morning and it did slip some around 6000rpm's so I won't be doing that again for a little while. Its just nearly impoosible to stay out of the throttle.

AmericanSpeed

My clutch will chatter like crazy if you lug the engine. The noisyness is something I couldn't stand at first but have since gotten use to. I'm really starting to regret my decision to go with the cheaper spec, I should've just went with the more expensive RST from the get go. I just dropped my car off and talked with Jay a bit, he said that your clutch works perfectly. That price difference was just too hard to swallow considering I had to also get my tranny fixed and got the 1-piece driveshaft all at the same time, but it looks as if I'll be paying for it in the end. It's never fun to learn the hard way!

sactown

I had the trans pulled 4 or 5 times before dumping my Spec's for the RST, talk about an expensive lesson. I wouldn't put another Spec's in my car if they paid me.

MustangGT0405

Hamm - If you lug the engine it slips and you get that grating noise. Hard to explain but you know instantly it doesnt like it. I am having to downshift alot more now, but like I said it might go away as it breaks in. When ever I slow down I downshift where I used to not have too, my only problem with it currently is I am trying not to rev the engine too high. Even if it never goes away I will learn to drive around it, It really keeps you honest on your stick driving skill.

And as far as the noise at idle in neutral, it is defineatly there but you can only really hear it with the radio off. Turn on the radio at a low volume and it is gone. Not real sure what it sounds like outside of the car though.

American - I hear you. I have learned that lesson about 100 times. Never cheap out on stuff, you will pay double in the long run. I almost had myself talked into a Spec to save some $$. The thing that really pushed me into it was the fact Moose had one and it was working great, but now I am glad I went with the Mcloed. Honestly if the new TOB doesnt fix it, cut your loses and buy a new clutch.

Sac- I want to make sure mine is good and broken in as the whole point of the upgrade was to get a clutch that wont slip. My plan is to drive 250 miles pretty slow, and slowly ramp up for the next 500 miles to my normal driving routine. Then at about 1k miles I will beat it mercilessly

AmericanSpeed

If the TOB doesn't do the trick, I will definently be putting in the mcleod RST. I'm really lucky that the guy I use (and MustangGT0405 uses) is really cool, he has taken full responsibility to get my clutch issue fixed since he had done the install and purchased the parts for me. I can't even begin to explain the extra effort he has given me, at no cost, to figure out the problems I've had with all my mods.

How I'd love to just be able to shift at WOT throttle again without using gorilla force...