Tips for "Aluminator"
#21
Why supercharge it with a roush? That like putting lipstick.......... err I'd look into a f1 or turbo. Also the aluminator is a good block but as stated before the livernois or even MMR is better. Not to bust your ***** but frpp does a good job, but aftermarket will build it stronger. Also, if money isnt a problem then why joke about a loan? The DOHC motor is stout but the wiring harness required and ecu will give you fits. Whenever you drop a motor in a car that doesn't belong there you will spend more than someone that is going with a "spec' motor.
Last edited by EagleStroker; 09-19-2008 at 10:10 AM.
#22
FRPP parts are simply over-rated.
For their price, i´d rather pay for parts that are prooven to perform and last much better.
I´m not saying an aluminator is a bad engine, but when we spend 5K+ in a mod in our cars, we simpley want the best of the best out there.
For their price, i´d rather pay for parts that are prooven to perform and last much better.
I´m not saying an aluminator is a bad engine, but when we spend 5K+ in a mod in our cars, we simpley want the best of the best out there.
#23
Hope you have a top notch electrical man for that swap.
Otherwise you will have to gut the inturment cluster for
aftermarket guages to get a working insturment cluster.
The electronics in thew S197s are not friendly to engine
swaps.
Otherwise you will have to gut the inturment cluster for
aftermarket guages to get a working insturment cluster.
The electronics in thew S197s are not friendly to engine
swaps.
#24
I wouldn't get MMR or the built Alluminator but your stuck on the Aluminator so good luck.
For 700 hp I would look further into the twin screw blowers. The 3.4 whipple will give you lower air inlet temperatures, helping with the heat issue. The Roush TVS is a good blower but I wouldn't choose it over the whipple.
At 700 hp you will be going through clutches like crazy. That is, if you are really driving the car to it's potential. The most consistant thing you could get is 4r70w with a manual valve body. This will let you "drive" the vehicle as you put it. It will hold more power than most manual trannies and can have less maintaince if set up properly.
Modular engine building has only been accomplished by a few companies with great success. Lots of people make them, but few make them that last, make big power and are free of issues. Good luck. You will need it.
As far as tips on building the motor. There aren't many folks here that have done it themselves.
For 700 hp I would look further into the twin screw blowers. The 3.4 whipple will give you lower air inlet temperatures, helping with the heat issue. The Roush TVS is a good blower but I wouldn't choose it over the whipple.
At 700 hp you will be going through clutches like crazy. That is, if you are really driving the car to it's potential. The most consistant thing you could get is 4r70w with a manual valve body. This will let you "drive" the vehicle as you put it. It will hold more power than most manual trannies and can have less maintaince if set up properly.
Modular engine building has only been accomplished by a few companies with great success. Lots of people make them, but few make them that last, make big power and are free of issues. Good luck. You will need it.
As far as tips on building the motor. There aren't many folks here that have done it themselves.
#26
I'm definitely in no way insinuating that they aren't acceptable, but I know what mine are, and I know what they were on my motor stock, and going off that would not trust that when it comes to building a motor I intend to last and also be a solid base for some power adders. It's just my .02 nothing more. It's an impressive motor no doubt, just not my cup of tea
#27
I'll probably spend about $12000 on the Engine/Trans/Supercharger.
This is gonna be a huge project for me, loan agency here I come!
Also I'm going with a manual because its just fun and you actually drive the car and not sit a long for the ride. I really hate that I can't do that right now.
This is gonna be a huge project for me, loan agency here I come!
Also I'm going with a manual because its just fun and you actually drive the car and not sit a long for the ride. I really hate that I can't do that right now.
When I drive you have to hold onto something with both hands
The price really starts to climb when everything breaks.... and everything will break ... atleast once
Last edited by sevenleaf; 09-19-2008 at 02:55 PM.
#28
DOHC s197? I don't think the TVS roush will bolt on either...Just an afterthought. The 3.4 whipple or 2.3 KB 4v are the only option here. Unless it's the 5.4 aluminator, and that tangent is $15K alone
#29
I know none of you guys are being ******** and just trying to help. I really appreciate it.
I'm most likely going with the aluminator, I just love it. Take note that I'm probably going to do everything I can before I get the new engine, so something may come out in that time period. Also, I'm going to be running this thing as a track car I'm gonna need something else as my daily driver, RX-7 anyone?
But, If I do not get the aluminator I will probably drop a GT500 in there. This probably is the best choice for what I'm doing but, I'm stubborn and have to do things the hard way.
I'm most likely going with the aluminator, I just love it. Take note that I'm probably going to do everything I can before I get the new engine, so something may come out in that time period. Also, I'm going to be running this thing as a track car I'm gonna need something else as my daily driver, RX-7 anyone?
But, If I do not get the aluminator I will probably drop a GT500 in there. This probably is the best choice for what I'm doing but, I'm stubborn and have to do things the hard way.