Fullsayl

OP - Did you calibrate the TPS voltage before installation?

EDIT: Err...what BlackS197 said LOL

~Matty

Lankers

the link is dead for me
I've got a CAI (think the tube came from ebay...it was on it when I got it) and a K&N Air Filter on it, and SCT custom tune. Once I put the stock body back on, the surge stopped. I didn't do anything with the TPS though. I don't think it was out of whack, but it would be great if it was a relatively simple fix. I liked hearing it suck in air under the hood.

link is working now. I'm going to give that a whirl this weekend. thanks for the help ^_^

Lankers

alright. I got the idle screw adjusted now so that it doesn't surge anymore. The only problem I have now is that it takes forever for the rpms to come back when between shifts. It revs fine sitting still, but if you're driving, they actually go up a couple hundred rpm's when you push the clutch in and then take a really long time to come back down. Any tips?

BlackS197Stang

That's what mine was doing. The idle would hang for a few seconds if I was at 2,500 rpm's or more. After adjusting it, it doesn't hang any more. The idle just takes a little longer to come down. No biggy, just normal for these TB's. Is yours hanging for a few seconds, or does it immediately start coming down, just slowly? If it's hanging, I would tweak the idle screw just a little more, and I'm betting that will do the trick. You may be almost there.

Lankers

mine will sit there for around 3 seconds or so and then start slowly coming back down. it's much worse when driving. I can tell it comes down slower than the stock on when I rev it sitting still, but it comes done much more reasonably than when driving. it wouldn't be that big of a deal on an automatic probably, but it's annoying trying to shift a stick when the rpms actually go up after you clutch it instead of starting to come down. I've also had a couple of time when I went to take off that it took it a second before it seems like the throttle did anything (almost made me stall it). so far this thing is a major PITA. I'd kill to have a damn performance shop here I could take it to and just say make it work lol

Lankers

I actually had the throttle try to run away on me today. I pushed the clutch in when I went to stop at a light and the rpms went from 2 or 2.5k over 3k and didn't come down until I let the clutch out for a second to drag the motor back down. After that, it went back to idle. GRRRRRRR. I'm about ready to just sell the damn thing. I ran into a problem when I was trying to match the TPS voltage the other day. When I turned the key on and checked the voltage, it started out at 1.31 and started dropping and dropping and dropping even though the throttle wasn't being moved. Basically as the battery went down, so did the TPS voltage. They say to match the voltage from one to the other, but by the time I switch the bodies and sensor the voltage was down around 1.19. I was thinking about just matching the ohms since they don't even require a . In theory it should be the same difference as matching the voltage. the tps is just a glorified variable resister anyway I believe. What I ended up doing last night since I was out of daylight was just tuning it by ear. I adjusted it until it idled like it was supposed to and was hopeful that it might run right now, but negative...

BlackS197Stang

You're at the point where I was, and I'm almost sure that if you move the blades (less air) to where you see another .05V difference at the TPS, that should do it. I just left the TB on with the cover off, and tweaked the idle screw to move the TPS down by .05V, retightened the allen head to lock the idle screw in place, and moved the TPS back to where it was. It worked, and I was one happy guy!