Throttle Response
07-04-2009, 10:28 AM
#12
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 1,440
[QUOTE=Norm Peterson;6324899]You should still do (or have done) the throttle reset. Removing mechanical slack in the pedal or its rheostat wiper assembly will not calibrate the electronics in the PCM.
I do the reset and along with the shorter travel due to the slack being gone, my throttle reacts instantly.
I do the reset and along with the shorter travel due to the slack being gone, my throttle reacts instantly.
this weekend.
07-09-2009, 08:24 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Deep in the <3 of Tx
Posts: 3,925
Do you have any pictures? How big is the spacer and what does it look like?
I read an older thread on here about bending the contacts of the throttle assembly. No way I'm doing that.
I do hate the initial dead space and a spacer sounds like it would work well.
07-10-2009, 06:49 PM
#17
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: North Idaho
Posts: 1,440
OK Guys, this is high tech Sh** so listen carefully! I first determined the gap produced by the dead spot by idling the car (warmed up) and looking at the throttle arm pivot point. I pushed on the pedal and noted the amount of gap produced to when the RPMs finally came up. I had about 3/32", which if you look at the amount of travel the petal bottom moves, it is about 5/8" (a lot). Now here is the high tech part, I found a couple of steel washers, which combined, equaled 3/32". I JB welded them together, shot them with black paint. Then roughed up the throttle arm where it contacts the stop, I then JB welded the washers to the throttle arm by pushing down the throttle and setting the washers in the center of the stop, then let the arm back up to the rest postion,holding the washers in place, got to let it harden overnight, now have a spaced stop, do the reset procedure and off ya go.
Last edited by Lifter583; 07-10-2009 at 06:53 PM.
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