Going with ZEX
#1
Going with ZEX
Hey everyone...I haven't posted here for a while, but I posted in the "Pipes, Boost, and Juice" section yesterday and haven't had any replies. Just thought I would try here and see if anyone had any feedback or suggestions.
I finally made up my mind to go with the ZEX system on my 07 GT. Any suggestions or lessons learned from anyone out there that has installed this system on a S197? Is there anything that you wish you would have done different or wish you would have known before you started? I have searched around the forum and found a lot of information in nitrous, but nothing really specific to the ZEX on a S197. Thanks in advance for the feedback!
I finally made up my mind to go with the ZEX system on my 07 GT. Any suggestions or lessons learned from anyone out there that has installed this system on a S197? Is there anything that you wish you would have done different or wish you would have known before you started? I have searched around the forum and found a lot of information in nitrous, but nothing really specific to the ZEX on a S197. Thanks in advance for the feedback!
#2
I don't have any Zex specific tips, since I have an NOS kit.
It's critical to have a nitrous pressure gauge where you can see it from the driver's seat. Expensive, but no kit, not even Zex recommends you spray over 1,100 psi. My pressure will get somewhat high when the engine heats the nitrous in the line, even if it's cold outside. Get a purge, that way, you purge down when if the pressure gets too high.
100 shot or more. You'll probably need one range colder plugs. Always follow the manufacturer's recommendation about switching plugs. Same thing with timing, follow the directions that come with the kit. Usually 75 shot can usually be run on stock timing and stock plugs, again, follow the directions that come with your kit.
If you don't have an RPM window switch, then your kit isn't safe.
All accessories should be wired to the key. That is, if you turn off the key, then everything should turn off, especially the bottle heater. Don't buy a heater that runs directly from the battery and is operated with just a simple switch. Murphy's Law says you'll leave the heater on, walk away and wind up with a dead battery. The best heaters will turn off when the car is turned off.
In my opinion, the safest heaters are controlled by a thermostat. I wouldn't purchase one that works on bottle pressure unless it has some sort of safety feature that will turn the heater off if the bottle is closed. A heater that uses a pressure switch can cause dangerous bottle pressures if you accidentally leave the heater on and close the bottle.
Use AN wrenches on AN fittings. They work the best. Don't over tighten AN fittings.
Install a blowdown tube. It's safe, cheap and easy.
A lot of people that have never used nitrous don't know the bottle has to stay closed unless you're using it. Otherwise, it will all leak out. That means each time you want to use it, you'll need to go to the trunk, or purchase a remote opener.
Check local laws. (Ricers have ruined nitrous for everyone in my opinion. We've seen a lot of anti-nitrous laws passed in many states.) Virginia, for instance, can slap you with a $500 fine if the bottle is hooked up on the street. If you're willing to accept the possible illegality of nitrous then that's fine, just find out before you install your system.
That's all that comes to mind for now.
It's critical to have a nitrous pressure gauge where you can see it from the driver's seat. Expensive, but no kit, not even Zex recommends you spray over 1,100 psi. My pressure will get somewhat high when the engine heats the nitrous in the line, even if it's cold outside. Get a purge, that way, you purge down when if the pressure gets too high.
100 shot or more. You'll probably need one range colder plugs. Always follow the manufacturer's recommendation about switching plugs. Same thing with timing, follow the directions that come with the kit. Usually 75 shot can usually be run on stock timing and stock plugs, again, follow the directions that come with your kit.
If you don't have an RPM window switch, then your kit isn't safe.
All accessories should be wired to the key. That is, if you turn off the key, then everything should turn off, especially the bottle heater. Don't buy a heater that runs directly from the battery and is operated with just a simple switch. Murphy's Law says you'll leave the heater on, walk away and wind up with a dead battery. The best heaters will turn off when the car is turned off.
In my opinion, the safest heaters are controlled by a thermostat. I wouldn't purchase one that works on bottle pressure unless it has some sort of safety feature that will turn the heater off if the bottle is closed. A heater that uses a pressure switch can cause dangerous bottle pressures if you accidentally leave the heater on and close the bottle.
Use AN wrenches on AN fittings. They work the best. Don't over tighten AN fittings.
Install a blowdown tube. It's safe, cheap and easy.
A lot of people that have never used nitrous don't know the bottle has to stay closed unless you're using it. Otherwise, it will all leak out. That means each time you want to use it, you'll need to go to the trunk, or purchase a remote opener.
Check local laws. (Ricers have ruined nitrous for everyone in my opinion. We've seen a lot of anti-nitrous laws passed in many states.) Virginia, for instance, can slap you with a $500 fine if the bottle is hooked up on the street. If you're willing to accept the possible illegality of nitrous then that's fine, just find out before you install your system.
That's all that comes to mind for now.
Last edited by mustangtestuser; 07-09-2009 at 10:16 PM.
#3
Thanks Mustangtestuser. I definitely plan on using a remote opener. I hadn't even thought about how I am going to wire the bottle heater. I was wondering if it's normal to have it wired to a switch or not. I wouldn't think you would want the heater on everytime that the car is running. Thanks again for all of the feedback!
#5
Thanks Mustangtestuser. I definitely plan on using a remote opener. I hadn't even thought about how I am going to wire the bottle heater. I was wondering if it's normal to have it wired to a switch or not. I wouldn't think you would want the heater on everytime that the car is running. Thanks again for all of the feedback!
I have a master switch that controls power to the system, bottle opener and purge buttons. The heater is on a separate circuit. I can heat the bottle with everything else safely off.
#6
mustangtestuser
why would you want to heat the bottle if you have the rest of the system off? or are you just talking about pre-heating the bottle for a bit before turning the rest of the systems on so you dont have to wait for it to get to temp/pressure that you want?
sorta a NOS noobie here, just want to know more.
why would you want to heat the bottle if you have the rest of the system off? or are you just talking about pre-heating the bottle for a bit before turning the rest of the systems on so you dont have to wait for it to get to temp/pressure that you want?
sorta a NOS noobie here, just want to know more.
#7
mustangtestuser
why would you want to heat the bottle if you have the rest of the system off? or are you just talking about pre-heating the bottle for a bit before turning the rest of the systems on so you dont have to wait for it to get to temp/pressure that you want?
sorta a NOS noobie here, just want to know more.
why would you want to heat the bottle if you have the rest of the system off? or are you just talking about pre-heating the bottle for a bit before turning the rest of the systems on so you dont have to wait for it to get to temp/pressure that you want?
sorta a NOS noobie here, just want to know more.
It can also take a while for the bottle to warm up. It's definitely not instantaneous.
Here's a good example. I took the car to the track back in March and heated the bottle along the way. I wasn't going to use any nitrous, so I wanted the system off. When I got there my bottle was warm and ready for a pass right away.
#8
gotcha, what brand of heater do you like, do you have to turn it off and on, or does it have a thermo/pressure switch on it that turns it self off/on when powered up? also are full bottle heatter massivly better then band heaters (say 1" or 2" bands)? I was thinking of the ZEX bottle heater, the one that covers like 3/4ths of the bottle, but i dont know/cant find out if it is temp controled, or if it is just on/off.
thanks for the quick reply for the last question.
thanks for the quick reply for the last question.
Last edited by dagamore; 07-12-2009 at 07:11 AM.
#9
4 years and over 100 10lbs bottles on this kit, as bare bones as you can get. Eye on the tach, ear to the engine, knowledge of tuning, good gas, and constantly check your plugs.
It does suck when pressure gets low but I keep an extra bottle. 125 shot with no fuel upgrades just autoliteHT0s and 2 deg. timing pulled. No problems, just the melted plug or two.
It does suck when pressure gets low but I keep an extra bottle. 125 shot with no fuel upgrades just autoliteHT0s and 2 deg. timing pulled. No problems, just the melted plug or two.
#10
Quick question, Do you need a custom tune with a 100 or 125 shot? If so can you drive the car on the tune without nitrous? I'm assuming you can but it may not preform as well.
So would it be beneficial to have a street tune for no nitrous and a seperate written tune for a 125 shot for at the track?
So would it be beneficial to have a street tune for no nitrous and a seperate written tune for a 125 shot for at the track?