BL00DSH0T

Figured I put this in here as not too many 2010's have tuners.

I just got the C&L CAI and SCT X3 loaded with Bama tunes. It was a package deal and got 91Performance/Torque/Race tunes for the C&L CAI.

I'm getting some detonation in every tune. I'm in Arizona and we have the same wonderful gas as Cali so I'm pretty sure that has something to do with it.

I'm using the 91performance tune for now as I can drive it hard and stay away from detonation, but at WOT I get some deto around 5000rpms.
The other tunes you can hear the detonation sooner in the rpms.

I already emailed BamaChips and hope to hear from them soon. I have tuned my own vehicles before and just wanted to see how some of you are doing things.

I just got the SCT LiveLink loaded on the laptop and was wondering how you would go about data-logging to find the right areas to pull some timing. I don't want to touch the fuel just yet and this is just a temp fix. I will be on the dyno hopefully when I get the updated tunes and might consider seeing if there is any more power to be had from a custom dyno tune.

So what PID/DMR's do you data-log and what all do you look for? I don't blindly want to just pull timing here and there without data-logging as I wanna see what everything is doing and how it looks when everything is running like it should. But that is an option. Is it as simple as removing 1 or so degrees at a certain rpm? I'm use to 3D graphs based on load and rpm.

This will just be a temp fix as I will be getting other tunes from Bamachips. Just want to see, understand the data-logs and do some fine tuning my self.

Thanks

hammeron

might want to look over the air intake
system to check for leaks. it's possible
air is getting in, after the MAF sensor.

BL00DSH0T

Thats been done multiply times it is defiantely the tunes.

hammeron

ok just had to start at the top, since
you didn't mention any previous
troubleshooting.

i can't help with adjusting the timing,
but you can log the knock retard and
add WOT fuel successively, until there's
no more retard. imo, that's fairly safe
to do at home for testing.

if you max out the fuel and still have pinging,
then you can start to reduce spark, in the
4000-6000 range, 1 degree at a time.