Hot Rod Cam install tools
#1
Hot Rod Cam install tools
I need the tools to install a set of cams, but I'd rather not purchase unique tools I'd likely never use again. Does anyone know of a place, person or otherwise that would let me rent or borrow these tools, or is anyone planning on doing an install that would like to at the least split the cost of the tools?
#2
From my experience with this, it's more important to have the timing chain wedge out of the two special tools. The spring compressor is not needed and only increases the chance of dropping a valve in the cylinder. All you need to do is "inch" the cams off and on and taking the followers off is not needed at all.
My post will explain it a little better: https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...installed.html
My post will explain it a little better: https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...installed.html
Last edited by SirKnightTG; 12-09-2009 at 02:34 PM. Reason: wrong link
#3
From my experience with this, it's more important to have the timing chain wedge out of the two special tools. The spring compressor is not needed and only increases the chance of dropping a valve in the cylinder. All you need to do is "inch" the cams off and on and taking the followers off is not needed at all.
My post will explain it a little better: https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...installed.html
My post will explain it a little better: https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...installed.html
show us some pics of the chrome valve covers.
#4
Yeah about a half to a full turn at a time. The more careful you are the better b/c the last thing you want is a damaged bearing cap. It actually is easier and faster that way too.
What we did with the phaser bolt was break it loose where it was about hand tight, secured the phaser sprocket then took the bolt out. Then do the caps.
When installing the new cam, we put the cam in the phaser, put the bolt in hand tight then inched the caps on. Once they were on and torqued to 89 in/lbs, then you can un-secure the sprocket since it won't go anywhere now and torque down the phaser bolt. I believe it's 30 ft/lbs, then 90 degrees (which is actually pretty hard to do) all while holding the crank bolt so everything stays in place and doesn't rotate while you're torquing down on that bolt.
What we did with the phaser bolt was break it loose where it was about hand tight, secured the phaser sprocket then took the bolt out. Then do the caps.
When installing the new cam, we put the cam in the phaser, put the bolt in hand tight then inched the caps on. Once they were on and torqued to 89 in/lbs, then you can un-secure the sprocket since it won't go anywhere now and torque down the phaser bolt. I believe it's 30 ft/lbs, then 90 degrees (which is actually pretty hard to do) all while holding the crank bolt so everything stays in place and doesn't rotate while you're torquing down on that bolt.
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